2008 Summit XP 800 Engine Problem

TABSTER

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i didn't back read, so if it was mentioned earlier sorry for the repeat... adrian bernard in quebec does crank exchanges...send them yours and they will have a boo at it and use it as core and ship you one. last one i did was 750.00 i believe and it was a complete drop in. price might be wrong....been a while.
 

Modman

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To get the magneto off the crankshaft, do I need the ski-doo magneto puller like the service manual says? As well, the black silicone that holds the trigger coils to the magneto housing, can I use RTV (loctite 5910 is a type of RTV silicone according to the datasheet).

Since your crank is toast you can use a pulley puller with the 3 bolts as Maxwell suggested. To do it properly you should stick a big bar through the bolts once they are screwed in so that the crank doesn't turn. Most people just hold the opposite end of the crank with the clutch puller (with the clutch on) but there is a risk the crank could twist out of phase. It's a SMALL risk but you don't know about it until your motor is rebuilt and doesn't run, which means another tear down... Since your crank is screwed already I don't think there is a big worry about twisting out of phase for you :D, but you already have the clutch off anyway, so you are going to have to put a bar through the bolts regardless.

Be careful not to screw the bolts too far into the flywheel, behind it is the stator/magneto and you can damage it if you screw them in too far and then start twisting on the crank. Only screw them in a little better than the thickness of the flywheel.
 

maxwell

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and make sure they are all threaded in the exact same depth for even force

also

it will FIGHT not to come off. so when it does dont be suprised at the pop and bang it makes. sometimes i will tension the puller. and set the engien on the floor with shop towels or a blanket in the direction the flywheel is going to FLY. and let it sit for a few mins and usually it will pop off unnatended
 

Warhawk

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i fail to see how using isoflex grease creates more HP than having a directly oiled bearing.

Maxwell where do i say that it creates MORE HP. I just stated that these engines (not just brp ALL) are designed for one purpose lately:confused:
 

Sleeper700

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So my crankshaft is making a trip across the country to CVTech-AAB in Quebec, as they don't have any core's right now. They will rebuild mine and send it back. When I removed it, the magneto side bearing didn't have much for grease either. Should I have expected more than this?
100_0059.jpg

The outer PTO bearing is obviously toast,
100_0058.jpg

but the mag side bearings didn't roll as efficient as the center bearings. Not sure if that is a grease vs oil characteristic, or if the mag side was on it's way out too.

Here's a pic of the crankshaft sitting in the bottom half of the case before I took it out.
100_0057.jpg
 

CCCC

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Well I just took my 2008 Summit Rev R to the SkiDoo Dealer in St. Albert, Alberta. Coming back from Clemina Creek trail near Valemount yesterday... heading back towards trail head and on KM 20 of the 26 KM trail, engine seized. Couldn't pull the starter cord at all !! Son towed me rest of weay with our 2001 Polaris RMK 800. When I unloaded it in the Dealers yard, it started up again but ran rough, he figured 1 piston was not working. Started talking about this and that probably wrong, crank, needing a bottom end too if I replace the top end, etc.. and saying a short block with 1 year warranty is the way to go. Will find out soon.... sled only has about 1500 KM on it !!! But I have been reading ALOT on the web about the SkiDoo 600 - 800 series Rev Motors seizing up and lucky to get 2500 KM out of them. Guy at dealership said the same thing... 2 - 3,000 KM and that is it. Seems like NOT ENOUGH for a sled I paid $8500 for with 550 miles on it ! Not happy with Ski Doo and BRP. Think I will stick with Polaris, and older models at that !
 
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