Muskoka Freerider

drew562

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It did sound sick on the way down when they short cutted the trail however nothing came of it. I’d keep running 94 if I was him
I have a short track turbo cat. 1100 4 stroke. Basically stock except for pipe and clutch. If I get on a big lake like Lac st Anne and hold it to the bar over 100mph for more than 10 seconds with any other fuel but shell gold. My deto warning comes on. Petro can. Chevron. Doesn’t matter. If I put Shell 91 I can hold that to the bar for a minute straight or longer until the belt blows lol.
 

Kibbels

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I have a short track turbo cat. 1100 4 stroke. Basically stock except for pipe and clutch. If I get on a big lake like Lac st Anne and hold it to the bar over 100mph for more than 10 seconds with any other fuel but shell gold. My deto warning comes on. Petro can. Chevron. Doesn’t matter. If I put Shell 91 I can hold that to the bar for a minute straight or longer until the belt blows lol.
👍🏼
 

Teth-Air

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I am surprized that 9r motor is still running with all the broken spark plugs (detonation). Maybe it is a good thing that they are breaking to slow him down or he would have lost the piston ring locating pins by now. I saw on one of his videos that his buddy had both pipe and can temperture sensors fall out. These things might be rattling all kinds of things loose. Besides good fuel, I would definately be looking for a torque/hp curve for these motors and clutch them just under the peak HP to keep them loaded. Probably get more track speed that way too.
 

snopro

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I’m pretty sure these guys aren’t like you and Johnny and trying to get the absolute most you can out of your sled. I think it’s pick it up at the dealer, fill it with fuel and oil each day and mash the gas. If I was blowing plugs every day I’d be talking to my dealer and finding solutions. The Backus boys are certainly capable. Pops raced and the boys raced so I’m sure their personal sleds are clutched already.
 

Rhodesie

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just got off the phone with ngk tech support. was told the first character of the code on the plug represents which plant the plug was manufactured at. plants all over the world. h=japan, u=taiwan. classic case of plugs separating is over torque or impact damage (dropped). torque is 18-21ft/lbs or 1/2 turn after washer contacts the surface. washer new is 2mm thick, after torque washer should measure 1.3-1.4mm. was told to send the damaged plugs to them for analysis. if its a defect they will replace them. stay away from amazon and ebay plugs because they won't be authentic if price is cheap. if too good to be true they most likely are knock offs.
 

snopro

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just got off the phone with ngk tech support. was told the first character of the code on the plug represents which plant the plug was manufactured at. plants all over the world. h=japan, u=taiwan. classic case of plugs separating is over torque or impact damage (dropped). torque is 18-21ft/lbs or 1/2 turn after washer contacts the surface. washer new is 2mm thick, after torque washer should measure 1.3-1.4mm. was told to send the damaged plugs to them for analysis. if its a defect they will replace them. stay away from amazon and ebay plugs because they won't be authentic if price is cheap. if too good to be true they most likely are knock offs.
I can see dropping them being an issue of separation for sure. Not sure how torquing them to much as you are turning the plug on the metal portion of the plug, not the porcelain?
 

Rhodesie

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said that the extra torque on the body actually cracks the bonding agent that hold them together. give them a call and ask.
 
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