Grizz 660 cold start

leonard

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They came out I believe because they gave great response and removed the low end bog,..

I know if you put them on a rhino you need a fitting, or cable accessory for it to fit stock parts,.. or something like that. Haven't looked to deep into it,.. but for the price,.. they are an exceptional carb.

Which carb are you talking? the FCR or the Edelbrock here. because the Edelbrock was made for the same thing and they are bolt up ready.
 

AreWeThereYet

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Which carb are you talking? the FCR or the Edelbrock here. because the Edelbrock was made for the same thing and they are bolt up ready.

The FCR,.. I was told my tuners to stay away from Edlebrock because they are finicky and hard to tune.
 

Garryese

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The fuel spitting back to the air is the key clue; I cannot tell you how many times I dealt with this exact issue when I worked for a Yamaha dealer. The intake valve is open slightly. The valves must be checked/set COLD. The mechanics in the shop will get it running in the compound (they have lots of tricks), drive it in the shop and then check the lash with false results (the aluminum head has abosorbed some heat causing it to "grow" faster than the steel valve stem by at least 0.002"). Back off the intake valve lash adjustment screw 1/4 turn.

If you have any doubts try a compression test or leak down test when it is cold.
 

leonard

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The FCR,.. I was told my tuners to stay away from Edlebrock because they are finicky and hard to tune.


weird your the first person I've ever Heard/Seen say that they "Grizzly 660 Edelbrock model carb" were hard to tune .. seeing you can adjust them in 2 dif ways without taking the carb apart or even off the bike i would imagine them easy to tune.

I've been following that carb for awhile I'm waiting to see what i do tho this year.

if i cant get rid of the off the line bog on my grizzly ill be pulling the trigger on something.

cuz its driving me nuts tbh.

otherwise it runs great but that initial bog bugs me so much.
 

AreWeThereYet

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weird your the first person I've ever Heard/Seen say that they "Grizzly 660 Edelbrock model carb" were hard to tune .. seeing you can adjust them in 2 dif ways without taking the carb apart or even off the bike i would imagine them easy to tune.

I've been following that carb for awhile I'm waiting to see what i do tho this year.

if i cant get rid of the off the line bog on my grizzly ill be pulling the trigger on something.

cuz its driving me nuts tbh.

otherwise it runs great but that initial bog bugs me so much.

I have the bog on my rhino as well, and have read that the FCR is less finicky with altitude changes. This is of course on rhino forums, but if I was to put in a 686 kit, I would use an FCR.

I think we may have gotten this thread off topic.
 

roadrunner

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Grizz 660 cold start Drain the fuel bowl before you try to start if you let it sit for any time . This works every time
 

Murminator

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The fuel spitting back to the air is the key clue; I cannot tell you how many times I dealt with this exact issue when I worked for a Yamaha dealer. The intake valve is open slightly. The valves must be checked/set COLD. The mechanics in the shop will get it running in the compound (they have lots of tricks), drive it in the shop and then check the lash with false results (the aluminum head has abosorbed some heat causing it to "grow" faster than the steel valve stem by at least 0.002"). Back off the intake valve lash adjustment screw 1/4 turn.

If you have any doubts try a compression test or leak down test when it is cold.

Thanks Gary everyone including myself has tuned the bike warm well because you want it run the best while warm.
If you adjust the valves cold will it run like crap warm??
 

leonard

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Thanks Gary everyone including myself has tuned the bike warm well because you want it run the best while warm.
If you adjust the valves cold will it run like crap warm??

ive always adjusted my vavles cold and have no perf problems
 

sledn

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Finally did the valves on my 2 660's today--night and day difference starting (no choke or throttle req.)and low end torque.Should have done them years ago!(intakes had no slap)
 

Garryese

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Thanks Gary everyone including myself has tuned the bike warm well because you want it run the best while warm.
If you adjust the valves cold will it run like crap warm??

Valve lash is almost always set cold. It will run correctly after it warms up.
 

Murminator

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Ripped it apart today couldn't fit the .002 feeler gauge under the intake rocker spun crank around again the TDC still no go net says between .004-.006 backed off the jam nuts put the .005 under it tightened down pulled out gauge it slides back under tight but it still goes. Put the cover back on hit the stater button without the fuel tank and and she came to life. Put tank on and buttoned back up she starts and runs awesome and now I have a choke....something that has worked in a hundred years. Not doing the happy dance yet will try it tomorrow to see how good it will start.

Thanks for the help guys :d:beer::d
 

rob350

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Talking about the Edelbrock carb, majority of the guys on high lifter forums love them on the 660's, grizzhopper even gave it great reviews.
They say its way easier to tune than the OEM carb, and less finicky.

I would buy one, but i think they are like $400, few too many pennies for me.
 

leonard

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Talking about the Edelbrock carb, majority of the guys on high lifter forums love them on the 660's, grizzhopper even gave it great reviews.
They say its way easier to tune than the OEM carb, and less finicky.

I would buy one, but i think they are like $400, few too many pennies for me.

Im trying to fit a FCR Keinen into my machine atm ... ill tell you if it works or if i have to do something to make it work :p

If not other options are the mikuni 45mm
 
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