Power or Weight? what wins....

scrfce

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Ooops 30* hit the 4 instead of the 3. SLP pipe, intake, hood foam, wheels, etc etc.

Which wheels ya drop? And not to put ya on the spot but whats in place of the etc etc? Just curious cause ive been tryin to shed as much as i can as well
 

Rucky

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Which wheels ya drop? And not to put ya on the spot but whats in place of the etc etc? Just curious cause ive been tryin to shed as much as i can as well

Only running the back wheels, and the ones up by the rear mount (the ones you have to). There's some other little things I've dropped. Can't quite think of everything right now. Don't have it calculated to exact numbers. I was just throwing a number out there.
 

scrfce

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Hey no prob i wasnt second guessin ur numbers actually dont care how much, just was hopin you did somethin that i missed that i could do on mine. Thx.

Modman wasnt jackin, it was still on the lightweight topic right??
 

Modman

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Would a 2.15lb to 1 hp be good?

It would be, but we all know your sled doesn't have it. 450 lbs full of fuel? That's quite some feat to get a sled sub-400 lbs dry, maybe you could actually weigh it and get a real #, not a fictional one.

and now back to our regular scheduled programming.....
 

jbb

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how about you all go gear up, fuel up, gas can on the back and weigh ready to ride with your fat asses on the seat. then come back with your numbers.
 

jbb

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and while your at it. figure out your torque. you could have 200hp and 90ft lbs of torque. wonder how that would work in the mtns?
 

Modman

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Some really good points here, I'm with you all on the weight reduction. So let's discuss that - there are lots of types of weight, rotating, unsprung, sprung etc. Sure rotating mass reduction is great for drag racing, but in the hills when you are stuck and digging out, the rotating weight is a moot point, nothing is rotating. Also, at slower speeds the rotating mass increase is only slightly greater than non-rotating, you really need the inertia to make the rotating mass reductions worthwhile.

Mass reduction for acceleration down the strip for sure, but at what cost to reliability as well. I don't need a lightweight driveshaft breaking on me 40 kms back in a bowl. Some places you can save weight and not lose strength, some places I prefer not to go. Also, for the price for gun-drilling a jackshaft, I can buy several lightweight parts that are going to bolt on and drop the overall weight. Good points though.

Unsprung vs sprung - its all weight right? If it needs to float on the snow, then any weight reduction is better. Sprung weight definitely to give a better ride and reduce shock fade. The less weight you gotta bounce the better IMO. Also the farther up you take the weight off the sled, the lower overall center of gravity (CG) you achieve - which is why first thing I remove is the headlight and gauges if possible, anything to get the CG lower means you are not trying to move that added high weight back and forth and change its direction. Less input energy to change the movement. Laws of physics essentially. Shocks have always been low on my list because: a) I ride in powder on the mountain, not on a motocross track, b) they are lower on the sled so not a lot of CG reduction and c) the huge cost to drop a couple pounds is better spent elsewhere (I'd rather have pipes that boost my HP than $1000 shocks that drop 4 lbs).

Anyway, looking forward to more discussion on this, keep the good replies coming.
 

Modman

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and while your at it. figure out your torque. you could have 200hp and 90ft lbs of torque. wonder how that would work in the mtns?

You are introducing too many variables. First off, its a comparative analysis, so the rider absolutely needs to be taken out of the equation, mainly because we are all different, its not about us, its about the sleds.

Sure we could all calculate the torque, but at what rpm, for how long, etc. This isn't about who's sled will work better in the mountains, it about where your $$$ is spent for what kind of mods. Boosted yammy guys included because you may have more to gain from dropping cheap weight than adding more boost.
 

SLY

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620 full and ready to ride and around 260-280hp works really well :d have ran it at 300hp but it is even harder to hold on at wot (I guess you can have too much of a good thing). Pretty reliable thus far (season 3) Not cheap though, you have to spend to get the weight loss and the power. I would do the hp increase first and then the weight loss as I have tried several combos in the past. Boosted 4 strokes rock. :d
 

maxwell

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i hear ya about the shocks. fox floats sure are light compared to stock. and they do ride nice. however reliability is a factor and i will never use or reccomend them again. just got a set of evol x back with a rebuild cost of 300 with 3500km. while the other sled sits lopsided in the garage awaiting rebuild aswell. coilovers or nothing.

on my older sleds the headlight and guages was first to go like you mentioned. we took one out of an xp and it was almost a wash it was soo light factory. and the guages dont exactly like to be taken out of these new machines. i think shedding the stock hood and guages and moving to lexan lost 40lbs.
 
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overkill131313

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ball park....650 pounds (on the heavy side) at 310 hp....Boosted with little loss of power at 7000 feet unlike a NA engine that looses so much at 7000......so the math says 2.0967742 pounds per HP at 7000 feet ......compared to a 1160 that make 140 Hp or less at 7000 feet which now puts it over 3 pounds per HP! Boosted does Rock!
 

Longhairfreak

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ball park....650 pounds (on the heavy side) at 310 hp....Boosted with little loss of power at 7000 feet unlike a NA engine that looses so much at 7000......so the math says 2.0967742 pounds per HP at 7000 feet ......compared to a 1160 that make 140 Hp or less at 7000 feet which now puts it over 3 pounds per HP! Boosted does Rock!

Enjoy you Yammie.
 

Longhairfreak

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It would be, but we all know your sled doesn't have it. 450 lbs full of fuel? That's quite some feat to get a sled sub-400 lbs dry, maybe you could actually weigh it and get a real #, not a fictional one.

and now back to our regular scheduled programming.....

My bad I didnt account for fuel.
 

TROLLCAT

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I ride a stock M8 I'am happy 10 out 10 rides , the sled before just under 10 grand in up grades happy 1 out 10 rides carb 720 d&d , never rode a turbo that might be the game changer,
 

imdoo'n

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sheeet modman you are so deep. 7lbs = 1hp in weight reduction. light weight is always the way to go, depending on how deep your pockets are. at some point you have to quit. you could lessen th3 snow accumulation under the hood with a coating of Pam or equivalent.
or why don't you just break down and buy that phazer you know you want. you know the 100 mph rocket that has been on the joey seat of the pants dyno. you know you want one. :beer::d
 
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