Duramax Batteries

sledn

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I find fast turning starter is more important than glow plugs on my 2004 duramax for cold starting.I do not wait for glow plugs or intake heater in the extreme cold.Starts good below -25 if I forget to plug in.Costco batteries work great for the dollar.
 

SLEDBUNNYRACING

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I still can't believe you got charged 300 for tire balancing..... Wow!!!! The rest, they are overcharging, i agree..... Drive without the rear driveshaft no problem, just don't be hard on it and it will be fine. Call me if you have more questions........sherwood park service(certigard) 780 464 6000..... Lotsa good batteries out there, and they're all close in price, but $400.00 for batteries is way too much..... $150.00 each is more realistic for a good 78 series battery.

Summitric set me up with batteries for my 2002 Dirtymax a few years ago.
Price was awesome and the old girl cranks over just fine every day.
 

Rockwerx

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I would get some new batteries and see how it starts. It may still need new glow plugs if they are worn out. I do not even know if they run glow plugs but I have changed them in a few other diesel engines that I have owned and it fixed the cold start problems. They burn out...think if it like a light bulb that gets water sprayed onto it. After many cycles they quit working.

Your vibration problem could be a few things wrong with the drive shaft...as you have determined that with out the driveshaft on the truck the vibration stops. First thing is to check the condition of the u-joints. Then check if any ballance weights have come off the driveshaft and then check if there any bends or dents in the driveshaft. It is normal to loose t-case fluid if you remove the driveshaft.

Good luck with your truck!
 

martincc

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thanks for the replys! with some help from the forums I was able to check the contol box, have power going to it and from it both to the intake heater and glow plugs. Next followed the wire to the glow plugs and found the power wire disconnected.. so hopefull that fixes it. The odd thing is though that if i test for power at any spot on the rail or glow plug itself I don't get anything.. so I may have some things to sort out. What really pisses me off is a hour at the dealer and they couldn't find this. Told me if anything was wrong the computer would find it. I asked the exact question if they checked the voltage/resistance and they said no need the computer would show it. So documented the wire being disconnected and will call the service manager monday to give them a chance to give me my money back.. otherwise I'll let out the name of the dealer and the terriable overpriced service they perform. I found glow plugs for 18 dollars, much cheaper than the 800 the dealer wanted to install.. and the 400 they wanted for new batteries.. amazing actually that I did all this in my alley at -20, a flashlight and a wire with a lightbulb attached and they couldn't figure this out in thier shop with thier "training" and thier computer systemm. A week ago before I bought this truck I knew nothing about diesels. Says a lot about Calgary dealers I guess.

New question is should I be able to get power at any point along the glow plug rail? Could one bad plug short this system out? Letting the truck cool down and will try to restart tonight.

Vibration continues.. drive shaft was balanced today and was fine. Been reading up on how to measure angles so will do that next to see if they are within spec. Truck does have a 2" lift.
 

brian h

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if it has a bad u-joint then you should make sure the ears on the drive line or the yoke are not spread,if they are a u-joint is a temperory repair.if a yoke ear is spread on they drive line it will have to be cut off,new one welded on and the drive shaft balanced.
 

drford

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Glow plugs are a problem also if battery voltage was low the glow plug controll modules do get dammaged and quit will usually cause cel light though if the module is bad. Gm has updated the part with new part number. Pm me if any questions
 
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