Duramax Batteries

martincc

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Just had my truck (2004 duramax LB7) in the shop for a no start while cold. They let it sit for 5 hours at -20degC then started the truck no problem, not plugged in. charged me an hour's dianostic time (140 dollars) and found the batteries failed. L was 12.31volts, 503 cold cranking amps, R was 12.3V and 434 cold cranking amps. Dealer wants over $450 for two new batteries plus install costs. Anyone know how out of spec these number are? Would this be enough the cause the truck not to start below -10degC? Seemed to turn over fine when cold but its my first diesel so I have no clue if that is a good cranking speed or not. No codes or problems with the glow plugs. Injectors were replaced less than 3 yrs ago and less than 60,00kms ago under warranty. Can anyone recomend a better place to buy batteries? I've had such bad luck with dealers and overpriced OEM stuff that I figure there must be a better option.
 

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I switch all my trucks to Yellow Optimas and never look back. With the diesels running 2 batteries once one gets weak the other will kill it, then kill itself and it doesnt take much time. I work in the field and the OEM batteries always leak out the top, then cells start to die. The optimas are sealed so they never leak regardless of the crappy roads...

Red ones are cheaper, but yellow are deep cycle, so for the diesel I like them better. About 400 bones installed at Battery Direct. You would be happy with either the red or the yellow...

Also, I will mention oil is a huge factor in cold starting a diesel. If you are running 15w40 I would suggest going to a winter weight oil like a 0w40 or synthetic. It will make a HUGE difference...
 
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martincc

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Thanks for the replies.. yeah no kidding.. they also charged to check codes even though I checked myself and told them there wasn't any. I called Dagger Performance Diesel (heard their ad on the radio today) and they said drop by and they will check for free. Wish I would have heard of them earlier. This truck has been a huge PITA since I bought it.. luckily didn't try to sell my gas Dodge yet! 140 to tell me the batteries are weak.. now another 140 just to have them take it out and road test for the vibration this afternoon! 300 Tuesday to balance tires which I knew wouldn't solve the vibration since it only happens under acceleration. Would these battery numbers be enough to cause the truck not to start in the cold? Below -10 it won't go until plugged in for 20mins. I'd hate to spend the cash and find out its not the problem. Really don't want to get stranded at a staging area some mild day.
 

Longhorn

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Numbers sound weird to me...when mine start to go, I lose voltage...One might be at 11 volts and the other at 4-6 volts...both of yours are at 12v so you would think they would be ok???

Strange...
 

Summitric

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would these battery numbers be enough to cause the truck not to start in the cold? Below -10 it won't go until plugged in for 20mins. I'd hate to spend the cash and find out its not the problem. Really don't want to get stranded at a staging area some mild day.

does the truck not turn over/crank if not plugged in?? Or it cranks fine, just won't catch and start?
 

martincc

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cranks and turns over fine, but I do notice it is a little slower than when it is warm, or even after being plugged in for a bit. It does turn over but just won't catch.. fires a few times but again, wont catch.
 

martincc

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they said from the test 503 and 434 cold cranking amps.. but not sure what the original ratings were. Also had a bully dog triple dog economy tune on it... I know that plays with the timing etc.. would this also maybe cause harder starting? I removed it last night and the truck ran a lot quieter. Could the lower amps also cause the glow plug/heater grid not to function to the best it could? Guess I should just pony up and get the batteries, but I don't trust anyone's single opinion in this city, I'm at $700 in diagnostic fees alone to have a vibration check, have the batteries tested and the DTC codes checked.
 

martincc

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also can anyone tell me if I can drive the truck with no rear drive shaft up to 110km/h using 4x4. Dealer called today today to say I owe them 300 dollars for figuring out my batteries were weak and that they "think" my tires are out of balance despite spending 300 dollars tuesday to have them balanced. Why would a vehicle vibrate in the seat (sounds like prop plane) past 110km/h only under acceleration? I want to remove the driveshaft to eliminate half the driveline.
 

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I dropped a rear driveshaft on the way to Banff for a ski trip. Luckily it was the rear u joint. I threw the driveshaft in the box and continued on to Banff in 4 wheel drive because I was a lot closer to Banff than Calgary. When I got to Banff nobody could help me, I couldn't even get the part, so I skied for the weekend and drove home in 4x4 at highway speeds. got it fixed and there was no damage done. Can't say if it was a good or bad idea, but like I said, no damage done. The older (pre 2000) 4x4's said not to exceed 80 kmh in 4x4, but the newer ones make no mention of a speed restriction while in 4x4.
As to your battery condition, the oem batteries (delco) and sh_t in my opinion, give Rockies Batteries a call. He can answer your questions concerning cca's and battery replacement and he's a real decent fellow Telephone: 780.468.2161. I realize he's in Edmonton but he'll answer your questions and hopefully give you the name of a reputable battery place in Cowtown.
As for the dealer, never went to one once warranty expired, they are bandits and should be wearing masks. Probably had the car wash kid looking into your problems.
The vibrations, I still say are a tire balance problem, that could be exaggerated or amplified by the lift kit (drive angle). Give Tonka 4 wheel drive a call, again Edmonton, (780) 465-1427. Ask them about lift kits and vibration, they put lift kits in all day long so they might have feedback for you.
Did the dealer say he specifically tested your glow plugs and they are ok or is a battery test as far as he got? Those battery numbers don't seem low enough to prevent cold weather starting, I still say glow plugs, or the glow plug relays.
Hope this helps somewhat, nothing more frustrating than pouring the dollars to the problem with no results.
 

martincc

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Thanks very much for the info. They just read the codes, which there were none because I had already checked them, test drove it for 15mins and did the battry check and are trying to charge me 2 hours labour. Called bullch!t and I told them not to check codes as I did it myself with my programmer. Going to remove driveshaft, talked to dagger diesel and they were very helpful, no charge road test and will also check batteries for free. How do I check glowplugs myself? Can't believe this will be the 4th shop this truck was at for a vibration! "Yup, its your tires, let us balance them, ok, 300 dollers please" drive away exact same problem.. Off to the next dealer to repeat! They also want close to 800 to change the glow plugs.. Can order them out of the US for 90 dollars.. So may just do them myself. Do they eventually go bad?thanks!
 

Summitric

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I still can't believe you got charged 300 for tire balancing..... Wow!!!! The rest, they are overcharging, i agree..... Drive without the rear driveshaft no problem, just don't be hard on it and it will be fine. Call me if you have more questions........sherwood park service(certigard) 780 464 6000..... Lotsa good batteries out there, and they're all close in price, but $400.00 for batteries is way too much..... $150.00 each is more realistic for a good 78 series battery.
 

martincc

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hey thanks for the help.. pulled the drive shaft and ripped down crowchild.. 110-120 under hard acceleration exit to exit no vibration in 4x4 with no rear drive shaft. Leaking alot of transfercase fluid so headed back. Very short test but no vibration like before. Should this thing be leaking out red fluid!? Yeah i was pretty pissed today but they wouldn't back down on the price. Told me everything I told them this morning. Going to leave drive shaft out and take to shop tomorrow afternoon perhaps.

Question is now drive shaft balance? Whats that cost? not sure what else it could be. The dealer was sure the small play in the yoke wouldn't cause problems.

Costo has 950 CCA batteries for 100/piece, worth trying I guess.
 

Summitric

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REAR UNIVERSAL JOINTS ARE COMMON, AND CAN GIVE VIBRATIONS..... YOU SHOULD INSPECT THE UNIVERSAL JOINTS FIRST, AS IT COULD BE AS SIMPLE AS THAT. TRANSFER CASE MUST HAVE ATF IN IT..... IF ITS A MANUAL TRANSFER CASE IT WILL BE DEXRON III ATF, BUT IF ITS AN AUTOMATIC TRANSFER CASE(BUTTON ON DASH SAYS AUTO 4X4) IT WILL USE AUTO-TRAK II Fluid GM P/N 12378508. GOOD CHOICE ON THE BATTERIES.
 

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REAR UNIVERSAL JOINTS ARE COMMON, AND CAN GIVE VIBRATIONS..... YOU SHOULD INSPECT THE UNIVERSAL JOINTS FIRST, AS IT COULD BE AS SIMPLE AS THAT. TRANSFER CASE MUST HAVE ATF IN IT..... IF ITS A MANUAL TRANSFER CASE IT WILL BE DEXRON III ATF, BUT IF ITS AN AUTOMATIC TRANSFER CASE(BUTTON ON DASH SAYS AUTO 4X4) IT WILL USE AUTO-TRAK II Fluid GM P/N 12378508. GOOD CHOICE ON THE BATTERIES.

It'll be dex, didn't use the auto4x4 in duramax trucks.
 

jeffg463

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I put 2 1100ca batteries in mine, just a little extra ooomph but 975ca is damn good too. You can check the glow plugs by pulling the wire and checking for continuity with an ohm meter across the plug.
If you go hard in 4x4 (high speed) of course you'll build up heat in the transfer case which can cause some atf to puke out the air vent tube, hence a small atf leak, check your levels, you don't need another huge bill.
 

martincc

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All u joints check out fine at 2 dealers and 1 drive line shop.. Fluids all good. No vibration with no driveshaft. Should the transfer case have leaked fluid while driving with no driveshaft? Going to get driveshaft checked.. 60dollars its worth it. Cold start still has me worried.. Hope its batteries but can't imagine.. Turns over ok at -20 just won't fire or catch.
 

Summitric

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I know many gm diesels that won't start unless plugged in at -20*c..... You might even have a coolant temp sensor problem, or could be glowplugs, or something in the glowplug system(timer/module, relay, etc etc)
 
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