08 Apex mtx info

[j garman]

On some other sites they talked about the OEM belts being to hard & slipping causing friction, which causes heat , which inturn causes cracks in the secondary drive & thats never a good thing. Just getting to know the fun things about my 08 Apex MTX . Can I ask if anyone is using Dayco belts on their 07/ 08 apex mtx, looking for some feed back as to set up & results, also would like to put A 3 1/2" riser on to, can it be done with stock cables.

 

[Zedeff]

I have an 06 Apex and used the stock belt. I've never had any heat or slip problems. Search the Totallyamaha site for info on the riser. Should be lots of info there.

 

[TABSTER]

2 1/2 to 3 inch is about all you can go without lengthening your throttle cable. I suggest that you wash your belts in warm soapy water and hang to dry. They will last longer. As for the heat issue I have seen it, make sure that your sled is clutched right and that you have the proper belt! and that your clutches are aligned. I bought a 08 Apex mtx and A 08 Nytro mtx, I am not going to name the dealer but they said it was clutched for the mountains....... What mountains........ NEPAL! The wife and myself went to renshaw for a couple days, was not impressed with the performance. GREAT snow though. Your Apex mtx if you are riding blue river, valemount, mcbride. etc. so 4000 to 8000 feet you should have in you primary clutch as follows. your secondary is fine. You could add a shockwave helix, for fine tuning.


What it should be:
Yellow / Pink / Yellow Spring
8FP clutch weights
Rivets
inner hole= empty
center hole= empty
outer hole= 13.3mm solid

what it was:
Yellow/Pink/Yellow
8FS weights
inner= empty
center= 13.3mm/ hole
outer= 13.3mm/ hole This is for 6000 to 8000 feet

08 Nytro mtx should have
white/green/white
8FS weights
inner=empty
center=empty
outer=13.3mm/hole
( all you have to do is add the 13.3mm/hole rivet)

THIS IS FOR STOCK SLEDS.

 

[TABSTER]

If you want to ride your sled around home clutch it as so:

Blue / Brown / Blue primary spring
8FS weights
Rivets inner= 17.2mm
center= 17.2mm
outer=17.2mm

This will pull your skies off the ground, along with lenghten your limiter straps.
The heat issue is from improper clutching and dirty belts and clutch surfaces. If you have a residue on your belt and film on your clutch it will slip. Wash belts, clean clutches. If you take your belt off start the sled and run 600 grit sand paper up and down inside you clutch, watch your sleeve.

 

[j garman]

Thanks alot for the info Neil every little bit helps, did someone set up the clutches for you or did you just get the springs & weights & do it yourself
Just curious on how much trouble these yammy clutches are. I'm sure you need a puller to do this work.

 

[TABSTER]

Hey J Garman, I did it myself through trial testing. I also consulted with some others. This combination gives you the full power out of your sled. To change your weights and spring is really easy, if you want more info on how to do it PM me. You need a 2.5 mm allen key, #8mm wrenches/ ratchet and # 10 mm wrenches/ ratchet. It takes about 20 min to change it.

 

[j garman]

Thanks Neil, Its good to have a starting point when your fine tuning your sled, With these weights what is your RPM @, full throttle plowing powder. I have changed weights on all my polarises so if its any thing like that I should survive!

 

[TABSTER]

revs to 10500 to 10700. If you are reving higher your torque/hp curve starts to drop off . Not much sense in making her screem to 11000 rpm, just putting more wear and tear on your sled and it actually is making less HP than @ 10500 rpm, cuz your out of the power curve. I did a boss highrise and TJ powersport tunnel dump exhaust. Dropper 46 lbs for $1250.00. Next will be the easy button (NO2) . ( not till next year ).

 

[j garman]

Yeah Ive got the seat & exhaust to, getting ready for supercharger, this summer project, will get used to it first. thanks again for all your info.
"this thing would be fun to ride if it wasn't so heavy" yeah right lots of fun throwing this sled through the deep stuff were its at home even in stock form.

 

[APEX83]

i have an 08 apex and everything was working good tell i hit 750k now it hits 12000 rpm and bounces of the limiter aney ideas

 

[Summiteer]

Try a new belt, maybe it's worn enough that it doesn't ride out enough on the secondary when the primary is shifted out all the way. Or can you adjust Yammy secondary for belt wear?
(remember; electrician, not mechanic).

 

[TABSTER]

i have an 08 apex and everything was working good tell i hit 750k now it hits 12000 rpm and bounces of the limiter aney ideas

Hey Apex83, I would look at your clutches, Inspect your belt when on the clutches it should be sitting a couple millimeters above the secondary( the top of the belt). It is possible that the belt is worn (narrow). check that the six outer 10mm bolts are all there and tight. visually inspect you primary spring , Look at your clutch faces to see were the belt is riding. You shouldn't be hitting the limiter, but if you do it should be about 11500. What model Apex is it (mountain or shorty)? Where do you ride? What is your weight ( approx.) I have a clutch chart, if you need anymore info.

Summiteer scooped me while i was typing. yah just like what he said also.

 

[Summitric]

Try a new belt, maybe it's worn enough that it doesn't ride out enough on the secondary when the primary is shifted out all the way. Or can you adjust Yammy secondary for belt wear?
(remember; electrician, not mechanic).

YUP, ADJUST THE SECONDARY... CHECK TO SEE THAT THE BELT IS RIDING JUST ABOVE THE CLUTCH SHEAVE, AND THEN ADJUST AS NECESSARY ACCORDING TO YOUR MANUAL(I BELIEVE YOU INSTALL SHIMS BEHIND THE 3 BOLTS, RIGHT???), OR IT IS A WORN BELT LIKE OUR TRUSTY OLD STEED SUMMITEER HAS SAID.

 

[Sledderglen]

I say add weight to the clutch levers commmon problem with Yammies they start to hit the rev limiter and you have to add weight. Just goes to show its making more power as it breaks in. 4 strokes take a little longer to break in. When you go to the mountains you may have to lighten up the levers a little so be prepared

 

[TABSTER]

This is were doo's are nice to dial in, cuz Yamahas you have to pull the weights right out and drill out the rivets to drop weight, and pound them in with a hammer to add weight. Not very trail tuning friendly with the factory weights. If your sled is stock and an RX10ML (mtx/ mountain) I run a yellow pink yellow primary spring, 8FP weights, rivets- inner hole =empty, center hole =13.3mm with hole in the center, outer hole= 13.3mm solid. this gives me 73.71 grams per clutch weight the stock set up is 71.32grams weight per clutch weight. I run about 10700 rpm on a good steep pull. Flatlanding I will hit the rev limiter.

 

[j garman]

Im at 500km now & around home with the stock belt on I hit the rev limiter no problem (belt is gently broke in), but with the exact same set up & the carlie ultimax 3 belt installed it works great pulls hard no slipping
Part # 138-4432-u3. Im not sure if this makes a difference on every ones sled the above info is great & needs to be done but changing belts has worked for me clutches run cool

 

[TABSTER]

Just curious as to the width of the belts? Is the ultimax a little bit wider? Did you do anything else, like seat and exhaust, or clutching? Is it totally stock?

 

[j garman]

Only add ons was a seat & exhaust, clutching was changed by the dealer for 6 to 8 thousand feet & I did add two spacers to the secondary adding up to 1.5 to get the right belt height. other than that its stock

 

[Sledderglen]

Try calling E&S in the fort and maybe they can give you some help. Just ntell them what you have for a problem and that Snow And Mud recommended them to you. Give it a try they know the Yamaha sleds good

 

[j garman]

Yeah their good they are helping me dial in mine, but have no reason why I hit the limiter with a stock belt But run good with aftermarket belt