can you test a stator

[boots]

is there a way to test a stator without running the sled

 

[DRD]

is there a way to test a stator without running the sled

Yes, since most of the time when the stator fails, the sled doesn't run. All you need is an DVM and what values across what wires.
Post up make/model someone will have the numbers.

 

[TROLLCAT]

with a ohm meter , test at the plug's coming out of the motor

 

[boots]

Yes, since most of the time when the stator fails, the sled doesn't run. All you need is an DVM and what values across what wires.
Post up make/model someone will have the numbers.

it is a 76 John deere Liquifire 340.... the stator is not yet installed i wanted to check it if i could before putting it back in and doing the the hard way if it is no good.... is there a way to test the trigger as well

 

[TROLLCAT]

yes it is

 

[TROLLCAT]

you need to find out what the spec's are on the the stator and also test the ground

 

[boots]

ya just need to find the specs... the service manual i have doesnt give me the specs .... and the test they show me are with a JDM-74 tester and also they are running tests...

 

[TROLLCAT]

was the machine running before you started the rebuild / did it have spark ?

I would put it together and caller a day

 

[Polarblu]

RM stator will have specs email their tech line.

 

[boots]

was the machine running before you started the rebuild / did it have spark ?

I would put it together and caller a day

no it was not running before i started the rebuild ,,, it had a 440 in it before and now i am put the original 340 back in it.... had the crank redone by Motts which did an awesome job (will go back to him in a heart beat)

 

[TROLLCAT]

the 340 & 440 are prolly the same stators test them against each other if you have a ohm meter

 

[NORDIC]

hope you don't mind, but i am having some electrical issues with my sled as well. I have a 2003 summit 800 zx, will only rev up to 6900 rpm. Does not matter if the track is loaded or not. Clutching, motor, fuel, all check out. Any ideas would be great. Think maybe stator or the flywheel?

 

[TROLLCAT]

the exhaust/muffer is plugged , ie " mice have packed it full of chit "

 

[NORDIC]

I already blew both the pipe and can out, nothing really in there but some rust. I can try it again I guess. Thanks

 

[TROLLCAT]

RAVE valves are they clean

 

[NORDIC]

rave valves are very clean, top end rebuilt/new crank seals, 130 psig compression in each hole, carbs clean, new vforce reeds, new plugs and wires, fresh fuel, unplugged the dpm and tried, no difference. Tried a buddys dpm and dess key, no work either. stumped...

 

[TROLLCAT]

you sure there are no shop rags in your muffler I have seen this before and not by me LOL

stators work or don't work , the timing of the stator may be off

 

[NORDIC]

that is what i thought regarding the stator assembly, seems to work fine. How do you check the timing of the stator? I will check the pipe again though

 

[snopro]

rave valves are very clean, top end rebuilt/new crank seals, 130 psig compression in each hole, carbs clean, new vforce reeds, new plugs and wires, fresh fuel, unplugged the dpm and tried, no difference. Tried a buddys dpm and dess key, no work either. stumped...

Are you using the BRP cables and caps, solid top plugs gapped properly. Believe me this makes a difference.

 

[boots]

Mr stator could not help me out. Any other ideas. Joes electric in Edmonton would be able too tell me.