Track speed T3

LennyR

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You can fine tune your RPM for the snow you are in with infinite adjust ability not just 200rpm increments.

I can use clickers, my shockwave or boost to tune for peak RPM. To tell you the truth I never touch my clickers.

So the proper degree helix is within the adjustment range ?
 

maierch

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So the proper degree helix is within the adjustment range ?

Yes but there are days that my sled will pull more helix than others (boost level the same).

Changing snow conditions load the engine differently. In my opinion more adjust ability is better than less.
 

LennyR

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Yes but there are days that my sled will pull more helix than others (boost level the same).

Changing snow conditions load the engine differently. In my opinion more adjust ability is better than less.

I agree, I tried one on my sled, different brand and the turned in all the way worked well but I think because of the straight angle it was to steep when shifted out. Loved the adjustability but went back to a multi angle , same start as shockwave but shallower top end. Even with boost, do you prefer a straight angle to a dual ?
 

deaner

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Sorry to derail the thread but very interested in what Maierch is saying about the shockwaves. I just picked up a 2014 TSS XM with a 163x3 on it. Would it be worth while putting one of these on? Clutching seems good but sled is new to me so still getting the feel of things.
 

oler1234

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As Maierch said, changing snow changes the load. Clickering up typical reduces belt grip, a lot of times I find clicker up really doesn't get you further on the hill, just makes it more responsive. So if snow loading is higher than normal, then you would change the shockwave to gain back your rpms and responsiveness.

to keep this on track, mine slightly modified pulls around 53mph steady.
 
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lilduke

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Not sure what the track speed is, but on My 163 T3 in Heavy snow it would loose RPM (and Track speed) when climbing or getting on/off the throttle.

So I put in a 19 tooth top sprocket(only cost me 20$) and its like a new sled. Holds RPM like a champ,

get off the throttle and back on and it picks track speed back up instantly. Works way better than it did with the 21 tooth sprocket.

IMO the 163 T3 is geared too high from the factory.
 

maierch

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Sorry to derail the thread but very interested in what Maierch is saying about the shockwaves. I just picked up a 2014 TSS XM with a 163x3 on it. Would it be worth while putting one of these on? Clutching seems good but sled is new to me so still getting the feel of things.

I found that tuning with the shockwave I could tune right to the ragged edge of fading during a pull which as I said could change given the snow conditions. All in all I feel it was a good addition.

As Maierch said, changing snow changes the load. Clickering up typical reduces belt grip, a lot of times I find clicker up really doesn't get you further on the hill, just makes it more responsive. So if snow loading is higher than normal, then you would change the shockwave to gain back your rpms and responsiveness.

to keep this on track, mine slightly modified pulls around 53mph steady.


I agree. Sometimes you just can't get the same response out of the clickers as you can a shockwave.

For the record to keep this thread on track my 2015 T3 with a few minor mods pulls 65mph trackspeed.
 

Caper11

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Not sure what the track speed is, but on My 163 T3 in Heavy snow it would loose RPM (and Track speed) when climbing or getting on/off the throttle.

So I put in a 19 tooth top sprocket(only cost me 20$) and its like a new sled. Holds RPM like a champ,

get off the throttle and back on and it picks track speed back up instantly. Works way better than it did with the 21 tooth sprocket.

IMO the 163 T3 is geared too high from the factory.

Or not clutched right, and it sounds like it isn't. I was running 21/51 gearing on my 3". Going 19/51 in gearing with the added reduction of the drivers is sketchy with 3" watch for chain stretch and should carry a spare Unless doo beefed up the chain and I'm not aware of it.

More power next year I hope.


Sent from my iPhone using The terrible app called Tapatalk
 

lilduke

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Or not clutched right, and it sounds like it isn't. I was running 21/51 gearing on my 3". Going 19/51 in gearing with the added reduction of the drivers is sketchy with 3" watch for chain stretch and should carry a spare now. Unless doo beefed up the chain and I'm not aware of it.

More power next year I hope.


Sent from my iPhone using The terrible app called Tapatalk


Bah, I guess you could spend a bunch of time and 400$ pissing around with clutching. I like the 20$ option better.
(considering most clutch kits come with a gear any ways)

Works great now, Ill keep an eye on the chain. And Yes more power would be nice!:beer:


Edit: A 20 tooth would probably work better too, if a guy was worried about the chain.
 
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chris79

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Not sure what the track speed is, but on My 163 T3 in Heavy snow it would loose RPM (and Track speed) when climbing or getting on/off the throttle.

So I put in a 19 tooth top sprocket(only cost me 20$) and its like a new sled. Holds RPM like a champ,

get off the throttle and back on and it picks track speed back up instantly. Works way better than it did with the 21 tooth sprocket.

IMO the 163 T3 is geared too high from the factory.

Where did you get your sprocket?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

adamg

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Or not clutched right, and it sounds like it isn't. I was running 21/51 gearing on my 3". Going 19/51 in gearing with the added reduction of the drivers is sketchy with 3" watch for chain stretch and should carry a spare Unless doo beefed up the chain and I'm not aware of it.

More power next year I hope.


Sent from my iPhone using The terrible app called Tapatalk

19/51 is T3174 factory gearing, right? So assuming they put the same chain on 163 and 174 models, Doo felt that setup was good to go.
 

lilduke

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19/51 is T3174 factory gearing, right? So assuming they put the same chain on 163 and 174 models, Doo felt that setup was good to go.

No Adam the 174 is 19/49 a 20/51 would be pretty much the same gear Ratio. The 19/51 is working wicked for me so far though and if it chits the bed I'll get a belt drive..lol
 

pfi572

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No Adam the 174 is 19/49 a 20/51 would be pretty much the same gear Ratio. The 19/51 is working wicked for me so far though and if it chits the bed I'll get a belt drive..lol

Lol
After switching to a 174 quite a few years ago and breaking chains I went to belt drive.
Ended my problems.
Small top gears didn't work for me with BRP chains.
Same chains they use today.
😉😉
 

lilduke

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Lol
After switching to a 174 quite a few years ago and breaking chains I went to belt drive.
Ended my problems.
Small top gears didn't work for me with BRP chains.
Same chains they use today.


I was thinking if a guy took a link out of the chain it would probably be a bit better on the chain with the smaller gear.
 

pfi572

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Didn't work on for me as chain was tight just getting gears and chain on.
Made sure of that .
Very little adjustment required with the right chain.
 

lilduke

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Didn't work on for me as chain was tight just getting gears and chain on.
Made sure of that .
Very little adjustment required with the right chain.

Hmm well guess I'll find out, 2 days on it so far and definitely has better track speed than before:beer:
 
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