Air box removal

foxrider

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So Ive seen a few times often enough people have removed the air box on their sled and put just air filters off the end of the carbs. Is this easy to do? What are the benefits of doing so? Does it provide better air flow in deep powder conditions? Might have to do it on the 670.
 

cookgio

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if you do it you will have to rejet your carbs and make sure you get the pre filters so snow doesn't melt and get in engine.My opinion stick with stock air box.
 

maierch

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if you do it you will have to rejet your carbs and make sure you get the pre filters so snow doesn't melt and get in engine.My opinion stick with stock air box.

x2... I agree. Stick to stock unless you have some performance upgrades that require the extra air flow.
 

magnet

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So Ive seen a few times often enough people have removed the air box on their sled and put just air filters off the end of the carbs. Is this easy to do? What are the benefits of doing so? Does it provide better air flow in deep powder conditions? Might have to do it on the 670.

being a 98 does it should have dpm i think. you will have to secure the ambient air temp sensor somewhere close to your pods. i zip tied mine in the middle of the 2. go up from the factory 340 and 350 main jets. i went to a 420 in each hole, and it seems good, i can hit 1200 on the pyro but its gotta be a hard pull and really cold out. so with the 420s i feel pretty safe with the kids riding it as it will never melt down in normal riding. stay with the single pipe unless you want to always be fuggin with it. i had a set of twin gagne pipes on mine and got tired of messin every time the temp changed 2 degrees. still have the pipes if your looking for a set, they worked good just seemed to be more of a pain than what it was worth. put the single back on and pulls way harder now than it ever did. make sure carbs are synced good as well, mine where way out when i put the pods on i checked and noticed it. good luck, fun sleds and go forever, i rode mine 5 yrs and now passed on to our son and went to a 1000, the 670 has aprox 5000 miles on it and never been opened still got 135 in each hole. imo they are the best sled ever. but maxwell would disagree. lol
 

foxrider

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being a 98 does it should have dpm i think. you will have to secure the ambient air temp sensor somewhere close to your pods. i zip tied mine in the middle of the 2. go up from the factory 340 and 350 main jets. i went to a 420 in each hole, and it seems good, i can hit 1200 on the pyro but its gotta be a hard pull and really cold out. so with the 420s i feel pretty safe with the kids riding it as it will never melt down in normal riding. stay with the single pipe unless you want to always be fuggin with it. i had a set of twin gagne pipes on mine and got tired of messin every time the temp changed 2 degrees. still have the pipes if your looking for a set, they worked good just seemed to be more of a pain than what it was worth. put the single back on and pulls way harder now than it ever did. make sure carbs are synced good as well, mine where way out when i put the pods on i checked and noticed it. good luck, fun sleds and go forever, i rode mine 5 yrs and now passed on to our son and went to a 1000, the 670 has aprox 5000 miles on it and never been opened still got 135 in each hole. imo they are the best sled ever. but maxwell would disagree. lol

Not looking to mod mine, gonna use old blue til I graduate and get a real job then im going to sell her and upgrade to a 670 that has a riser and a long track. Im gonna stick with the 670 model because they have always pulled good with little to no matinence unless your always rat bagging it. I only changed a belt this winter for repair cost wise.
 

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Mod your current one,

Ensure when you do your track you go to the 16 wide instead of the 15, much better.
 

foxrider

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Mod your current one,

Ensure when you do your track you go to the 16 wide instead of the 15, much better.

I would rather just buy one that already has the extension, it would cost less and that way id be able to do the rev seat, handle bar risers, and hood mesh myself.
 

benclaluna450r

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Not looking to mod mine, gonna use old blue til I graduate and get a real job then im going to sell her and upgrade to a 670 that has a riser and a long track. Im gonna stick with the 670 model because they have always pulled good with little to no matinence unless your always rat bagging it. I only changed a belt this winter for repair cost wise.

your not having fun unless your rat bagging it lets get real here
 

foxrider

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your not having fun unless your rat bagging it lets get real here

By rat bagging i mean having it full throttle all the time. I cant afford to rebuild my crank and pistons. I'll jump and climb with throttle wide open when needed but not all the time, I cant afford repairs at 300$ a month wage.
 

Modman

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So Ive seen a few times often enough people have removed the air box on their sled and put just air filters off the end of the carbs. Is this easy to do? What are the benefits of doing so? Does it provide better air flow in deep powder conditions? Might have to do it on the 670.

You will probably find it worse in deep snow unless you are getting more cold air to the carbs. The airbox sucks in cold air from outside, the pods will suck in warm air from under the hood and it will run worse unless you give it more venting or you get the carbs up into a fresh air stream. In deep powder at slow speeds when all the vents are plugged with snow, its really hard to get the cold air into the motor compartment. Springtime or take the hood off and it works much better but hard to run without a hood in deep powder.

Also, if you gets lots of snow onto the pipe and motor in deep pow, the pods suck in the steam and get wet, then they choke the motor for air, get the pre-filters and try and keep them dry if you insist on going to pods.

The only reason to change them to pods is if you are looking to ease up jetting changes (you have the DPEM so no need to worry about that) or if you need the room in the engine bay and can't make the airbox fit. They will not give you any real performance advantage unless you know how to tune with them and you will only end up with headaches and they will end up in the garbage can.

You will have to do more than just stick pods on, you should build some intake stacks as well, and probably remove the headlight to get more airflow if you really want. Search pods vs aribox on here and you will find all the past threads where this has been discussed. Stick with the stock airbox unless you want to do more than just bolt the pods on.
 
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