2012 etec bog again

jay

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This sled is starting to piss me off 4 trips this year and sled ran for 2 of them 2nd trip couldnt even ride it took it in bad sensor 3rd trip ran awsome 4th trip bogs like crazy can barly make it up trail and climbs like ch!t any time you try to pin it
 

Teth-Air

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This sled is starting to piss me off 4 trips this year and sled ran for 2 of them 2nd trip couldnt even ride it took it in bad sensor 3rd trip ran awsome 4th trip bogs like crazy can barly make it up trail and climbs like ch!t any time you try to pin it

Finally I got mine figured out. (95% reduced) It is an 11 but same problem. It is 100% due to too quick acceleration. It is when you punch the throttle and either the track spins or in lower elevation where the mapping allows for more power thus quicker acceleration. I blamed the can, but it was clutching that has cured it. I had 2 mm oversized rollers in the primary so I thought there is no way it was clutched too light. Well thanks to Winterbrew for putting me straight. With the oversized rollers, the arms where tucked in to far from idle so when I hit the throttle, the extra weight in the clutch did not actually create the necessary force early enough. Now stock rollers with the same total pin and roller combined weight the bog is almost completely gone. This is with the stock 12mm set screw plus a 10mm and and 8mm to fill the pin. It only bogs now if the track really spins or if I go too high of a clicker.

The 2012 did the exact same bog today when coming out of a stuck hole.

My advice to all etec owners that get the bog. Load up the pins with weight and in lower elevation, click down,
 

jay

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If its clutching why would it say check engine and engine light on
 

Teth-Air

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If its clutching why would it say check engine and engine light on

I have heard the 2012 has also another problem. It is only the non-electric start models. It is running out of stator power and can't power the injectors. A friend was getting a code too so he unlpugged his headlights and it ran great. He still gets the bog when reving too fast as stated above. Try it and see if its true.
 

Skidoo69

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Mine too. Then overheating. They checked it over and found a loose RAVE bolt. Fixed the issue immediately. Worth a shot.
 

jay

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just dropped it off at dealer so ill find out problably tomarrow
 

jay

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I have heard the 2012 has also another problem. It is only the non-electric start models. It is running out of stator power and can't power the injectors. A friend was getting a code too so he unlpugged his headlights and it ran great. He still gets the bog when reving too fast as stated above. Try it and see if its true.

yea heard of this so i tried only driving with low beam and heaters off didnt make a difference
 

Maxwe

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I am stuggling with mine also
I have reclutched right on the hill to the point i cant pull more than 7800 in number 6 and no difference.
not sure what the heck to think.
my sons runs perfect other than when you hit the lever to full it will after a second or so hesitate just enough you can hear and that is it.
 

Teth-Air

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I am stuggling with mine also
I have reclutched right on the hill to the point i cant pull more than 7800 in number 6 and no difference.
not sure what the heck to think.
my sons runs perfect other than when you hit the lever to full it will after a second or so hesitate just enough you can hear and that is it.

Your sons sounds normal, yours not so much. I recommend someone with a 12 that has this problem start a poll to find out if the rumors are true that it is only hte non-electric start sleds that are getting this problem. If it is true, this can help the dealers pin point what is going on.
 

sar

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I had the bogging problem as well. Have a non estart Freeride 137. Problem was driving me nuts until I read this thread and tried unplugging my headlights. Fixed the problem right away! I had HID lights installed so figured they were the culprit and replaced them with my stock headlights. Sled works perfectly now with one small exception... with the hand/thumb warmers on there is a very slight (and I stress slight) hesitation during hard acceleration. Any ideas?
 

Teth-Air

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I had the bogging problem as well. Have a non estart Freeride 137. Problem was driving me nuts until I read this thread and tried unplugging my headlights. Fixed the problem right away! I had HID lights installed so figured they were the culprit and replaced them with my stock headlights. Sled works perfectly now with one small exception... with the hand/thumb warmers on there is a very slight (and I stress slight) hesitation during hard acceleration. Any ideas?

try clicking down and see if it goes away. just to see if its accelerating too fast.
 

jay

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maybe ill get my sled back with electric start lol
 

Dmf

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theres a p code update for the ecm for a 12 volt over load. if you have a x model and you accidentally push the hi low beam switch to where its in between hi and low it will do all kinds of wierd ch!t. as for hesitation it will cut out if the ecm doesnt sense load. get quick clickers. riding on the trail have at 1 then once you get into elevation clicker up. quick clickers is a must with the etecs. also dont read the sticker on your chassis for rpm. you want to be 7900-8000. you guys are forgetting these machines are smarter then us
 

jay

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its funny how it runs awsome for three days sits in heated garage for 3 weeks take to mountains acts up within 2 kms
did the same thing twice 1 good trip 1bad trip 1good trip 1 bad trip
 

tex78

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Mabe put in some sea foam every tank...

To get the moisture out if there is any and also for pinging

Sent from my HTC-Z710a using Tapatalk
 

takethebounce

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yea my sleds ready for pick up and they said it was the sensor in pipe again

have you ever removed the sensor and used anything to clean it off? If you did remove it, did you see a lot of build up on it?

The pipe sensor is basically a solid stainless probe. I haven't (so far) had one issue with a pipe or can sensor.
 
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