Moved my Rhino rad to keep it cool!

STRAYPUSSY

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So i welded up some 1"x1" and this is what i came up with! Im gona run as many of my rad lines in alum tubing to make it last longer than rubber, i still have to make a bracket for my over flow and im also gona run a switch on the dash so i can turn the fan on when i want.
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Chrisco

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Nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! shes ready to go deep. Rob is going to be a blast.:beer::beer:
 

STRAYPUSSY

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Looks good, but who want more noise and heat?


Noise and heat are gona be very little! The question is who would want to over heat cuz your rad is full of mud and grass!! Unless ur ride the hard pack trail its a no brainer...
 

Snowdin

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Looks good. I know the title of your thread says MOVED the rad. Just want to confirm you did indeed move the original or is that an aftermaket rad? Was it a big job?
 

rhinoefi

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good job on the rad and the snorkal looks good to , all i do is run water weter in the coolant , no over heating issues yet.
 

STRAYPUSSY

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good job on the rad and the snorkal looks good to , all i do is run water weter in the coolant , no over heating issues yet.

Water wetter?? Is that the crazy colant that has a higer boiling point?
 

taxi guy

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Lookin to do the same ?? Will the water pump circulate up thru the new location ok ???
 

STRAYPUSSY

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Lookin to do the same ?? Will the water pump circulate up thru the new location ok ???

I'm not sure I hope so lol. Ill be sure to let u know how it works out, but its not really that much higer than stock and has less line to travel thru so I don't think its gona be a problem..
 

sumx54

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IMO...like straypussy says, this stuff just has a higher boiling point and does NOT make your engine run any cooler... end result= being able to stay on the throttle longer with an overtemped engine :confused:
Relocating the rad to overcome overheating problems is a much better solution than sweeping it under the carpet with snake oil... I could be wrong :cool:
 

Chrisco

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IMO...like straypussy says, this stuff just has a higher boiling point and does NOT make your engine run any cooler... end result= being able to stay on the throttle longer with an overtemped engine :confused:
Relocating the rad to overcome overheating problems is a much better solution than sweeping it under the carpet with snake oil... I could be wrong :cool:


It does run cooler as well it is waterless and when its gets hot their is no vapor discharged causing hot spots in the block so you have coolent touching
the block all the time. It does work I have tested it myself. So it is not snake oil unless NASCAR is into snake oil. Just about every 800HP + sandcar in the dunes runs evens coolent.

Chris
 

sumx54

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It does run cooler as well it is waterless and when its gets hot their is no vapor discharged causing hot spots in the block so you have coolent touching
the block all the time. It does work I have tested it myself. So it is not snake oil unless NASCAR is into snake oil. Just about every 800HP + in the dunes runs evens coolent.

Chris

Thanks for the information. I just assumed that having a higher boiling point meant that its just not going to boil over but still keep a high temp. But if it actually has a higher cooling capability than its worth a try for sure. :beer:
 

rhinoefi

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I purchased the evans waterless coolant that they use on the race cars and ran it my rhino for one rally, my engine light was on after 10 min of driving the coolant does circulate but does not cool quick enough, I limped my self threw the day, got home went up and down the street to get the light temp light on then heat scanned my rad hose comeing out of the block ( 326 deg) I beleive that the only thing saving the engine is that the coolant does not boil. I draing the system and went with normal coolant and picked up waterweter from the yamaha dealer, then installed a temp gauge now have trouble getting past 160 deg. That is just my experience
 

AreWeThereYet

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I purchased the evans waterless coolant that they use on the race cars and ran it my rhino for one rally, my engine light was on after 10 min of driving the coolant does circulate but does not cool quick enough, I limped my self threw the day, got home went up and down the street to get the light temp light on then heat scanned my rad hose comeing out of the block ( 326 deg) I beleive that the only thing saving the engine is that the coolant does not boil. I draing the system and went with normal coolant and picked up waterweter from the yamaha dealer, then installed a temp gauge now have trouble getting past 160 deg. That is just my experience

I am the same,.. I consistently run around 175F cruising,.. if I am hard on it, playing around,.. it goes between 180-190 where the fan kicks in and out.

I run a TCP fan shroud for more efficient use of the radiator fan,.. and I run about 6 cap fulls of WW in with my 60/40 coolant mix.
 

Chrisco

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I purchased the evans waterless coolant that they use on the race cars and ran it my rhino for one rally, my engine light was on after 10 min of driving the coolant does circulate but does not cool quick enough, I limped my self threw the day, got home went up and down the street to get the light temp light on then heat scanned my rad hose comeing out of the block ( 326 deg) I beleive that the only thing saving the engine is that the coolant does not boil. I draing the system and went with normal coolant and picked up waterweter from the yamaha dealer, then installed a temp gauge now have trouble getting past 160 deg. That is just my experience



326 deg holy crap that sounds like a air lock to me 326 deg in 10 min ???
 

rhinoefi

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Nope not air locked and actually about a 20 min ride, the air lock is what we figured in the field but we were wrong , had full circulation, the system just seems to circ to fast and does not cool quick enough. There was a wash truck half way at the rally and when he sprayed the top of my rad the light would go out then 2 min later light and fan back on, the evans just didn't seem to cool down
 
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