2013 RMK PRO NO FUEL / NO SPARK

[Keith T.]

Hi gang, I will try to be short here…

2013 RMK PRO 163” – removed starter motor (it was shot – waiting on new one coming in) but left battery in place (hoping not to affect regulator…) – went to mountains – rode for one hour – stopped for break – ‘accidently’ used key to restart (obviously didn’t start…) – but then pulls didn’t work…absolutely dead now…no spark / no fuel…

Cleaned up my original starter motor (good to go…) put back in and now starter relay (just replaced last season…) is toast too…

Pulled tether switch and kill swits lines off - still nothing...

Talk to me…did I ‘eff’ the ECU by starting without key and not having the starter motor in place…??

Any thoughts insights are greatly appreciated !!

[sorry if this is posted wrong - my first post...]

 

[ABMax24]

Is the key in the on position?

Turning the starter to start shouldn't have done anything without a starter, the starter is basically its own independent electrical system except the for the power to charge the battery.

 

[Keith T.]

Is the key in the on position?

Turning the starter to start shouldn't have done anything without a starter, the starter is basically its own independent electrical system except the for the power to charge the battery.

Thanks for this ! I know right...? The starter is on its own system...but with the 'new' solenoid being toast now too got me thinking it might have back fed voltage some how / some way... In regards to 'key on' I have started this sled with the key (hood) not even hooked up...its just that the display would not be lit up...so the key ( I believe...) is not needed...?

 

[ABMax24]

Thanks for this ! I know right...? The starter is on its own system...but with the 'new' solenoid being toast now too got me thinking it might have back fed voltage some how / some way... In regards to 'key on' I have started this sled with the key (hood) not even hooked up...its just that the display would not be lit up...so the key ( I believe...) is not needed...?

That's correct, it will start without the key if the hood harness is disconnected. If the hood harness is connected the key must be in the on position.

It is generally a bad idea to operate the machine with the hood harness disconnected, the voltage regulator on the 13/14 machines are shared between the lighting and ECU power supplies, these are shunt type regulators meaning the extra power is dumped as heat in the regulator. If the headlights are disconnected this causes excessive heat buildup in the lighting side of the regulator, which can fry it and the ECU power supply side of the regulator, it is also possible to cook the ECU in this process as well.

Outside of brief periods for diagnostics, these sleds should never be run with the headlights connected, if for some reason they must be removed a similar load in the form of a resistor needs to be added to prevent damage to the voltage regulator.

 

[Keith T.]

That's correct, it will start without the key if the hood harness is disconnected. If the hood harness is connected the key must be in the on position.

It is generally a bad idea to operate the machine with the hood harness disconnected, the voltage regulator on the 13/14 machines are shared between the lighting and ECU power supplies, these are shunt type regulators meaning the extra power is dumped as heat in the regulator. If the headlights are disconnected this causes excessive heat buildup in the lighting side of the regulator, which can fry it and the ECU power supply side of the regulator, it is also possible to cook the ECU in this process as well.

Outside of brief periods for diagnostics, these sleds should never be run with the headlights connected, if for some reason they must be removed a similar load in the form of a resistor needs to be added to prevent damage to the voltage regulator.

Thank you for this again...good info to know! I haven't purposely run without hood, but now I know...

 

[gdhillon]

That

That's correct, it will start without the key if the hood harness is disconnected. If the hood harness is connected the key must be in the on position.

It is generally a bad idea to operate the machine with the hood harness disconnected, the voltage regulator on the 13/14 machines are shared between the lighting and ECU power supplies, these are shunt type regulators meaning the extra power is dumped as heat in the regulator. If the headlights are disconnected this causes excessive heat buildup in the lighting side of the regulator, which can fry it and the ECU power supply side of the regulator, it is also possible to cook the ECU in this process as well.

Outside of brief periods for diagnostics, these sleds should never be run with the headlights connected, if for some reason they must be removed a similar load in the form of a resistor needs to be added to prevent damage to the voltage regulator.

I learned something new today!
Do you know if the axys’ are the same, in respect to how the VR is setup?

 

[ABMax24]

That

I learned something new today!
Do you know if the axys’ are the same, in respect to how the VR is setup?

I couldn't tell you. If I was to delete the headlight I'd put in a resistor (2 ohm I think it is) just to be sure though.

 

[timbo]

Check the Throttle Safety Switch might be frozen!

 

[Keith T.]

Check the Throttle Safety Switch might be frozen!

Thank you for this...there shouldn't be any freezing (frozen) issues right now...its been in the shop since Friday night...
I'm going to perform some static stator and v-reg checks here right away...
Cheers !