TRA Clutch disassembly

adamg

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I probably should switch to water trick but I'm getting some reps in using my puller to pop my clutch when I switch between home weights and mountain weights. I find it works best to tighten the puller with a breaker bar pretty tight, then tap the puller with a hammer, tighten a bit more, tap a bit more... definitely works better than just tightening. As my bent puller will attest.
 

neilsleder

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I probably should switch to water trick but I'm getting some reps in using my puller to pop my clutch when I switch between home weights and mountain weights. I find it works best to tighten the puller with a breaker bar pretty tight, then tap the puller with a hammer, tighten a bit more, tap a bit more... definitely works better than just tightening. As my bent puller will attest.

You should never hit your crank or anything bolted to your crank with a hammer! It's hard on the bearings!


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Clay911

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I've used boiling water over bottom of clutch, with puller tightened to 110 flbs

Boy does it bang lol

Thats how i used to do mine until i had a sled that even when torqued properly 5 kettles of boiling water wouldnt take the clutch off so had to try the water trick and have no looked back since. i dont even have to use clutch puller to hold the clutch when putting bolt back in.
 

CUSO

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One thing that helps a bit, is to put the tiniest amount of anti seize on the taper. Just enough to coat the metal, and wipe off. It's kinda like seasoning a frying pan..LOL
.
 

Limbo

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One thing that helps a bit, is to put the tiniest amount of anti seize on the taper. Just enough to coat the metal, and wipe off. It's kinda like seasoning a frying pan..LOL
.

Isn't the clutch held in place on the crank by friction? I'm not sure you should be doing anything that would compromise this.....
 

tex78

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Isn't the clutch held in place on the crank by friction? I'm not sure you should be doing anything that would compromise this.....
The older Tra had splines, where the 7 is just a tapered fit

That's y bolt torque is so critical, and rechecked it
 

tex78

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Isn't the clutch held in place on the crank by friction? I'm not sure you should be doing anything that would compromise this.....
The older Tra had splines, where the 7 is just a tapered fit

That's y bolt torque is so critical, and rechecked it

Don't think I would put any thing on the tapers... Just me tho
 

CUSO

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It reduces the removal effort slightly next time round. It's not like I am greasing it, I wipe it off completely with a rag, I am just reducing the corrosion that forms with the dissimilar metals..
and trust me it doesn't slip.
 

Bernoff

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Just been working on installing a rooster built kit in my XM. Got the secondary done with little trouble, when i got the primary popped off i've been having a heck of a time separating the sheaves. I've gave the bolt a few pretty stiff whacks with the hammer, even flipping it and smacking it on the floor with no luck. Any ideas on what else i can do?? This is my first time dealing with the Doo clutches, i left my last two stock. Thanks in advance for any help.
Usually I don't have to much trouble getting mine apart but today I had to smack it on the floor pretty hard to get them to fall apart.
 

dabensmiller

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Usually I don't have to much trouble getting mine apart but today I had to smack it on the floor pretty hard to get them to fall apart.

I was starting to wonder after the first few times i whacked it off the floor too, but then she popped apart. At least now i know what to expect.
 
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