TORS issue
- Thread starter russ
- Start date
snowdad4
Active member
the throttle override system consists of two switches. one located on the carb rack and the other on the throttle block.
these switches are highly sensitive to throttle cable freeplay. thats the first thing you want to check as well as the condition of the throttle cable. a sled at that age and lack of use could very well have a sticking cable.
the freeplay should be somewhere around 2mm, measured between the flipper and the throttle block. the flipper should move about that distance before pulling the cable or carb rack.
you can also test the switches for resistance with an ohmmeter and the system can also be bypassed, although i woudnt suggest bypassing until you find the root of the problem.
i would highly reccomend usine of a safety tether if you opt to bypass.
these switches are highly sensitive to throttle cable freeplay. thats the first thing you want to check as well as the condition of the throttle cable. a sled at that age and lack of use could very well have a sticking cable.
the freeplay should be somewhere around 2mm, measured between the flipper and the throttle block. the flipper should move about that distance before pulling the cable or carb rack.
you can also test the switches for resistance with an ohmmeter and the system can also be bypassed, although i woudnt suggest bypassing until you find the root of the problem.
i would highly reccomend usine of a safety tether if you opt to bypass.
- Thread starter
- #3
The cable looks o.k. and I did have issues with the freeplay. I had to put a different throttle block on recently and the flipper was slightly different. That issue is corrected(I think).The throttle cable goes to a splitter. There are two tors switches, one on each carb (st model). The switch at the throttle block looks simple enough but the ones at the carbs are odd. Is there anything else that could be causing the over ride? I'm stumped.
snowdad4
Active member
in a rare situation, wiring between the switches and the cdi could have a rub through and are giving a mis reading. perhaps one of the carb switches is faulty. miles of wire to inspect. i have a manual for those somewhere and could figure out what color wires your looking for.
if thats the st model, it had the round slide mikunis with that weird 2 into 1 coil type cable housing. issue could be in that. (sticking the carbs slightly open). or if you have recently removed the carbs, the slidesmay be sticking.
to bypass, find the wires leading to the carbs from the throttle fipper switch. think its a black and a black/yellow. plug those bullet connectors into themselves. the carb wires dont care, but the ones they connect to need plugged into each other.
warning: if there is an issue with the carbs or cables, that sled may ghost ride! keep your butt on the seat and finger near the kill switch.
if thats the st model, it had the round slide mikunis with that weird 2 into 1 coil type cable housing. issue could be in that. (sticking the carbs slightly open). or if you have recently removed the carbs, the slidesmay be sticking.
to bypass, find the wires leading to the carbs from the throttle fipper switch. think its a black and a black/yellow. plug those bullet connectors into themselves. the carb wires dont care, but the ones they connect to need plugged into each other.
warning: if there is an issue with the carbs or cables, that sled may ghost ride! keep your butt on the seat and finger near the kill switch.
- Thread starter
- #5
Similar threads
