2000 rmk 700 deep snow bog

[youngpolarisguy]

So with all this fresh pow we got i was out riding in like 3 feet of powder and my sled starts to run like chit a soon as i hit the snow and start to work it a little. Wont pull any rpms and boggs out down to the point its like its running on one hole. i taped off all my vents and even if i keep my intake clean no diff. I can take it out on the road clear it out and it runs like a top till i hit the pow and work the sled. dose any one have a experiance with these sled and maybe have some pointers. the only thing i can think of now is the clutching is off the guy before me put twin pipes on it but left the clutching stock, i never changed it cause it always seemed to be good it the packed trails. any help would be great thanks.

 

[Polarblu]

pull the clutches and clean them up and you will be back in the races!!! They ar not back shifting is what i suspect. Secondary has worn out bushings or is full of belt farts

 

[youngpolarisguy]

cool i will do that also is there any way to test the oil pump on these it seems to be running a little rich smokes worse than my old tripple when shes cold. thanks.

 

[Polarblu]

I usually just delete the injection and go pre-mix on old sleds. To test i use an old water pump shaft in a drill and run the pump and see if the hoses dribble(to make sure it is pumping) More smoke is better than none but i rather do the mixing myself.

 

[youngpolarisguy]

I know its getting oil just think its getting to much, and i thought of deleting the injection but riding around home it i very convenient just pull up to the pump and fill up the sled. I will just have to pull the pump off and compare it to another thanks for the help.

 

[heavy d]

pull the clutches and clean them up and you will be back in the races!!! They ar not back shifting is what i suspect. Secondary has worn out bushings or is full of belt farts

X2 on the clutches

 

[youngpolarisguy]

Ok heres a question. i was reading the install intructions for the slp pipes on the sled and it says to raise the weights to a 10-64. now i thought weights were just to keep rpm i cheak cause it has the stock 10-56 weights in it and it dosn't rev over 8000-8200 which i thought to be good. should i go up to a 10-64 for riding around edm or leave it alone.

 

[Polarblu]

When you pipe the sled it makes more power. The added power will over power the amount of wieght in your primary and it will over rev. 8100 is where that sled is happiest.

 

[youngpolarisguy]

Ok well i will go with the bigger weights hopfilly cycle works has some in stock.

 

[youngpolarisguy]

Ok so i cleaned the clutches changed my weights and it still runs like chit. It seems to load up really bad worse under load. I took it out for a good run down the road a opened it up pulls good once you get it cleared out. pulled plugs they a black and crusty with would point me to think its really rich, but i jetted it for like 0 to -15 and it was like 30 below last night i find it hard to belive its really running that rich. Now i have been reading that when these oil pump start to go they start dumping the oil in which is what i think is wrong cause it smokes 10 times worse that my 600 like to the point you cant stand by the sled unless you moving. has any one seen this before. I am at wits end with dam thing an need i running top notch by the 30th.

 

[Bogger]

mine turned out to be my clutch setting & belt....

swapped the belt and made a world of difference but even that one is not NEW... going to put a Brand New belt on....

 

[youngpolarisguy]

Tried another belt to, just seem to have no luck with the dam thing.

 

[Polarblu]

to bypass the oiler pull the hoses off and plug them. then place a jumper hose between carb and block on both sides. mix a few gallons to 32-1 and go for a rip then you can take that factore out. Only a temp fix for testing.

 

[youngpolarisguy]

May have to try that. I have another pump the way, i would rather just put a new one on and not have to worry blowing the thing up if it is faulty.

 

[youngpolarisguy]

Ok well between all the stuff i done and some tuning it seams to run pretty good, but when i start plowing snow the snow comes in between the hood and nosepan. i got the little platice screen that gose there but there is still quite the gap i there and i think between the snow cooling the pipes and the steam that comes out the back of the hood is causing the rest of my issuses dose any one have a idea to seal it up between there. i have all the other vent done so it jst that last gap.

 

[Polarblu]

i have never had that cause an issue unless it hits the clutchs and if it does boy howdy you will know!! on deep snow days just stuff some duct tape in there or cut some window screen and double it over and rivet in place.

 

[youngpolarisguy]

ya its not hitting the clutches but it hits the pipes full force. i have some pre filter like material that i did all the vents in maybe i will try to put it down in the front there to. thanks

 

[youngpolarisguy]

Ok so i had my air box out and i was turning the engine by had to check piston wash and notice smoke coming back out the carbs. pulled the reeds out and 3 to 4 pedles on each cylinder have a air gap. could this posibly cause my issue. any way i going to phone the dealer and see if they have some v-force i stock.

 

[Polarblu]

Ok so i had my air box out and i was turning the engine by had to check piston wash and notice smoke coming back out the carbs. pulled the reeds out and 3 to 4 pedles on each cylinder have a air gap. could this posibly cause my issue. any way i going to phone the dealer and see if they have some v-force i stock.

Go with boyseen reed petals. the difference in performance between the stock reed cage and the v-force is minimal. the reeds them selves is where you get the zing factor. and it will save you about 250 bucks!!

 

[youngpolarisguy]

ok will do but you think that would cause some of the bogging and lack of response.