Uhmw on jet boat.

neilsleder

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Anybody ever put this stuff on there selves? Being the cheap azz I am I want to put that on my boat but want it as cheap as possible. I got a good place to buy it from we work with them at work. Just wondering how hard it is to put it on. I don't want the whole bottom just a thin strip down the centre my boat don't got the biggest motor so weight is an issue.


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J-Roc

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I think it's doable Neil. There's a few threads on the install on meanchicken. Eagle, or Claude at Exact in PG or even Steve at Firefish should be able to sell you what you need for fasteners.

Jamie at High Caliber would also be a good resource.
 

LennyR

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Probably do-able , but any time you need to drill a couple hundred holes thru the bottom of your boat, I'm thinking its probably worth it to let someone experienced and qualified complete it , constant niggly little leaks and bolts loosening off can really be a pain after a while. And just a strip down the middle isn't gonna cost big time if you do the interior in-out yourself. My opinion.
 

neilsleder

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My my boat has a narrow strip of aluminum down the middle about 18" wide I would like to cover that area. The boats come loose often Lenny? I am going to think about it and maybe give it a try.


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J-Roc

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When I had my QT installed, they drilled and tapped the bottom and then installed sealant (sikaflex I assume) then installed the qt, ran all the bolts in, then rubber washers on lock nuts on the inside. I assume it'd be a similar process with Teflon.

Rock bottom industries in John helped a buddy out big time in a time crunch for the world's. Might be worth calling them? Really shouldn't be a big cost if you gut the boat and supply material.
 

LennyR

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My my boat has a narrow strip of aluminum down the middle about 18" wide I would like to cover that area. The boats come loose often Lenny? I am going to think about it and maybe give it a try.


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I've seen lots of guys with little pita leaks, usually from bolt holes elongated from impact or knocking the heads off them , probably more of an issue of impact than installation, but its a process that i assume the more times you do, the better and more quality job you're able to do. Didn't need to worry about mine loosening off, i usually knocked them out on a rock before they had a chance. Justb my thoughts but to be fair i am most assuredly one of the least competent boat do it yourselfer on here. I had my bottom redone last year and removed the uhmw and left it off, my hull is an 8 degree and 21 ft. Like you i had a qt 100 keel strip and even after sustained abuse, the plastic was still relatively good shape, most of my scrapes and bottom outs were dealt with by the keel strip, so i didn't really see the need for carrying around the extra weight of both. My opinion , the uhmw makes you slide on rocks a bit easier than qt, a bit, but really adds no strength at all, the damage will be similar you just won't see it cause of the plastic, and after a few hits the leaks started and what a pita to figure out where the actual problem was, water leaks out with no relation to the problematic or damaged bolt hole.
 

neilsleder

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I just spent time on meanchicken reading about and lots of guys seem to have problems after it was installed. Not so much leak wise but more performance and cavitation issues. As of yet I don't run crazy skinny water but would like for "just incase" lol. And if I do hit it will allow me to slide a bit more. This fall I hit and thought I broke ribs on the windshield it stopped so hard lol.
Another way of putting it on is plug welding washers on the bottom that would stop so leaks. You guys have any experience with that method? As for the qt100 plate on the bottom I won't do that in my opinion that's not a good idea, I have seen the effects of steel touching aluminum and it's not pretty Thanks for the advice and stuff guys! Just getting into this hole river boat thing so I really appreciate it!


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neilsleder

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And if I did put it on I was only going to go 1/4" thick as I know it don't do to much strength just want it to slide.
At work we use stuff that's called Nylatron we use it on catwalk skate for drilling rigs. Those skates go up and down that catwalk hundreds of times a day and it last for ever I was thinking of trying that stuff instead.


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pfi572

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Do not go the plug welding .
If you want slip I would just graphite the bottom.
Cheap any slippery as hell.
 

neilsleder

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Plug welding no good? That small of aluminum weld can't have to much strength. What's this graphite paint you speak of, and where do you get it done at?


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pfi572

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You can buy the paint at your local John Deere dealer.
It is also called slip coat.
I would do it yourself as not a big deal.

e2a3637aaa4c36619ca8ac27bc214223.jpg
 
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neilsleder

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Mmmmmmmmm never heard of it. Last pretty good?


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pfi572

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It wears off but easy to spray on .
After it is sprayed on you can't get boat to stay on shore until it wears off a bit.
Will just keep sliding back into water.
Works good on lawnmower decks and such.

If you were closer we could do it in a couple hrs on my hoist.

33e0ea3107216b3e1a40d5666fb0da04.jpg


Did old boat when stored for winter.
 
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LennyR

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I agree with Ross, the graphite is a definite should do. Had mine done this year and no way it stays on shore , sand rocks or dirt, way more slippery than it was with the plastic, wore off a bit this season but pretty easy to re apply in worn areas. Not sure about using only 1/4 in uhmw, if it wrinkles or stretches a bit or takes a hit at all I'd worry it would affect the overall performance , especially if it's anywhere in front of your intake. Even the 1/2 inch stuff gets warped and bumpy, thinner might be way worse.
 

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What are you guys doing to prep the aluminum or steel for slip kote? Primers and such? Also, any reduction in speed?
 

LennyR

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And if I did put it on I was only going to go 1/4" thick as I know it don't do to much strength just want it to slide.
At work we use stuff that's called Nylatron we use it on catwalk skate for drilling rigs. Those skates go up and down that catwalk hundreds of times a day and it last for ever I was thinking of trying that stuff instead.


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Sliding flat surfaces parallel along the plastic material may not be the same, take a sharp ended heavy object or hammer or such and hit it hard , like trying to represent the total weight if your boat hitting a sharp rock in one localized spot, That'll be a better test of how the product will hold up I believe. Eventually you're gonna whack the hell out of it unless it stays on the trailer.
Not an expert but man I've seen an awful lot of boats , mine included that have qt bolted on over aluminum , and haven't seen any issues that I'm aware of. Mine was on for 6 ish years , took it off and didn't see any issues. Not sure if most builders put a protective layer between or not, but for strength and slip, the qt keel strip however wide you choose, is a great choice IMO.
 

J-Roc

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Sliding flat surfaces parallel along the plastic material may not be the same, take a sharp ended heavy object or hammer or such and hit it hard , like trying to represent the total weight if your boat hitting a sharp rock in one localized spot, That'll be a better test of how the product will hold up I believe. Eventually you're gonna whack the hell out of it unless it stays on the trailer.
Not an expert but man I've seen an awful lot of boats , mine included that have qt bolted on over aluminum , and haven't seen any issues that I'm aware of. Mine was on for 6 ish years , took it off and didn't see any issues. Not sure if most builders put a protective layer between or not, but for strength and slip, the qt keel strip however wide you choose, is a great choice IMO.


Agreed. I love my QT
 
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