Rooster kit

[lilduke]

my .02 on the subject..
Yep....for those riding in 3-7000 ft range the stock '12+ clutching works good for most guys. I don't think anyone has ever said otherwise. RPM is fairly consistent since they got away from the reverse angle helix and the durability and tolerance issues they have had in past years. Keep in mind the factory clutching has a part in achieving the decibel and EPA regulation that these sleds have to meet. Perhaps dropping rpm under certain test conditions to meet those standards, although the etec being so clean it has opened up more options for stock clutching.....like getting away from the reverse angle helix that allowed the ptec to meet EPA standards.
There are small gains (or call them changes) to the power delivery or feel....making the power more "useable" for lack of a better term, for many riders. There are some gains to be had at lower shift ratios, mainly from running a progressive helix that loads things harder at low ratios vs the stock 40....stock is snappy but still a bit buzzy at low speeds. I prefer that grunty, linear feel for tree riding.
I get to talk with a lot of xp and xm riders. You might be surprised how many don't like the stock clutching or how many eat belts on a regular basis...it surprises me at times because I don't think stock is terrible and I try to make it clear exactly how our setup is different from stock. I want people to have realistic expectations and many times encourage some guys to stay stock if they are happy with it. Most that do change are more than happy and some see more gains than others....especially the extreme low and high altitude guys that ride outside where the stock calibration works well. At low altitude, If you load up the stock pins to get RPM correct, then you have a lazy backshift and slow rpm recovery (if at all) due to the stock, soft secondary spring. So then guys start messing with secondary springs...then they see too much heat and slow upshift using a stiff spring with the shallow 40...so then they start chasing their tail and trying different helix's. There are many riders who benefit from going with different clutching. Some would rather not spend the $$ on a whole bunch of parts to make it work the way they want, while some guys enjoy clutching and searching for that perfect setup...
Just showing 79-8000 on the tach isn't everything to everyone. Power delivery, feel, engine braking and even small gains in climbing track speed while lessening belt problems are huge to some people....and thats where we do our best to make a customer happy, as I'm sure the other guys that offer their version of how a mountain sled should be clutched.
The vast majority of our customers come from someone who rode with another customer with our setup and got to ride it to compare. If there were no positive traits to be had, Im sure we wouldn't be getting phone calls. The funny thing is, we have been getting as many calls from XM guys wanting a change from the stock clutching as we got in previous years when the clutching was clearly lacking. There is no magical setup that works perfect for every sled and every rider....Ski Doo knew that when they settled on calibration, and we know that with the setups we offer. Its nice to have choices.

If your customers are happy that's all that matters I guess. Merry Christmas

 

[finndoo]

My buddy and I both bought 2014 xm 163 sleds this year, I put on a rooster built kit before I ever rode it, my buddy left his stock to compare. On our last ride in chest deep powder we switched back and forth to compare, we both agreed that his worked well but mine just worked better. I had more climbing speed and track speed recovery was quicker after having to back out on a climb. We will keep comparing over the next while but after only one ride rooster built likely has a new customer. I don't claim to understand clutching as well as some guys but all I can say is that so far I am one of your happy customers and thank you winter brew.

 

[etecheaven]

rode side by side with a buddy in his stock 2014 163 xm and mine with the rb kit. Switched back and forth and we both noticed a lot more snap and smoother pull on mine. Not a big fan of the later engagement due to the heavier spring. Makes feathering out of a stuck a bit tougher. Holds rpms solid all day long.

Other then that im a big fan, can wait to see the sled out of break in mode to see how things improve.

Is it worth the money.... yes, if you can do the install yourself. Had mine installed for me and the extra cost makes it a bit pricey for what you get.

cheers

 

[Darren400]

rode side by side with a buddy in his stock 2014 163 xm and mine with the rb kit. Switched back and forth and we both noticed a lot more snap and smoother pull on mine. Not a big fan of the later engagement due to the heavier spring. Makes feathering out of a stuck a bit tougher. Holds rpms solid all day long.

Other then that im a big fan, can wait to see the sled out of break in mode to see how things improve.

Is it worth the money.... yes, if you can do the install yourself. Had mine installed for me and the extra cost makes it a bit pricey for what you get.

cheers

Mine 163 with the rb kit also engaged quite hard for the first ride, seemed to clear up on the second ride. I am sure winter brew could explain this? I am really happy with my rb kit I wouldn't have a sled without one, had a 11 xp with the rb kit never had a belt issue, clutches always looked flawless when I took them apart. Rooster builts customer service is top notch!

 

[Nonhighwayservice]

I have the RB kit in My '13 XM. Installed it after the break in was complete and noticed a difference (for the better) right away. Better back shifting consistent rpms and I found that when you're almost stuck and pin it, it helps to jump out of the hole instead of trenching. I don't know how well other brands work but I am extremely happy with Rooster Built.

 

[neilsleder]

Alright that's pretty funny lol. Merry Christmas


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Wow did you and LennyR just agree and get along? 2014 is shaping up!

 

[LennyR]

Wow did you and LennyR just agree and get along? 2014 is shaping up!

Nah, don't talk crazy. I'm not sure what he thought was funny, I figured I was dead on. Watched the videos, not sure why maxwell doesn't just find a bumpy field with some trees around Edmonton area and ride there, be about the same, save some truck gas. :d

 

[SaskSummit]

Well finally going to throw the kit in this weekend. Headed west on weds to test it out. Hope i don't regret it. The stock clutching is pretty good on these things.
I will have a couple with me that will have stock clutching so a good time to compare.

 

[SaskSummit]

Kit is in went for a little rip around here. Seems to be better but hard to tell with conditions. Seems to hold RPMs better then before. Know more after Thursday.

 

[SaskSummit]

Well put a couple days on in some decent snow last week. And ran it against a bone stock sled still in brake in mode and he stomped me. He was pulling about a constant 5 kph better then I was. I even had him take mine to compare. He was pulling 65 and I was only getting 60. I was getting 65 before. He was on clicker3 and I was on clicker 5. Question. Will it come back if i drop back down to the 19 tooth gear? Or do I take a little weight out. The suggest pin weight in the kit was 15.9g And when I used the pins and screws they suggested to get 15.9g it wieghed in at 16.5g. So either my scale is out or they are out on there little suggestion card. I would say it is my scale? So where do I go from here> It was pulling 7900-8000 and holding it but would like that speed up a bit.

 

[pfi572]

Winter will comment but I would take some weight out to get clicker position back into 3 and then ride it until break in is completed. When you do this check spring also as you could have received a bad one. (not likely but possible)
Not sure what spring he runs but you need to know the length un sprung to check it.
My 2 cents

 

[SaskSummit]

Mine is broke in the stock one only had 100k on it.

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[deaner]

Definitely take some pin wieght out and get it back down to clicker 3. Its gonna suck arse in clicker 5

 

[maxwell]

Stop fawking with it Blaine and it will be as good as stock again lol


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[SaskSummit]

I know Maxwell but I had to try it. Had a kit in my 09 and it made a huge difference I was hoping for the same with this. It did make a difference but the wrong way unfortunately Lol

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[Winter Brew]

Well put a couple days on in some decent snow last week. And ran it against a bone stock sled still in brake in mode and he stomped me. He was pulling about a constant 5 kph better then I was. I even had him take mine to compare. He was pulling 65 and I was only getting 60. I was getting 65 before. He was on clicker3 and I was on clicker 5. Question. Will it come back if i drop back down to the 19 tooth gear? Or do I take a little weight out. The suggest pin weight in the kit was 15.9g And when I used the pins and screws they suggested to get 15.9g it wieghed in at 16.5g. So either my scale is out or they are out on there little suggestion card. I would say it is my scale? So where do I go from here> It was pulling 7900-8000 and holding it but would like that speed up a bit.

Maybe give them a call or send a message....thats what I would do. Lol. Most guys are seeing mid- upper 70's km/h sustained on a good pull.
For starters....do you have a aftermarket silencer or stock?

 

[SaskSummit]

Hps can other than that it is stock with the clutch kit in it

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[Winter Brew]

Hps has worked great from what I have seen, but it wouldnt hurt to try the stock silencer for a day. Other popular silencers have been showing 200-600 rpm drop from stock....its hit and miss, some will be fine while others have problems.
If the belt has a lot of miles ( 500+miles) I would swap another belt. We have seen belts get soft if they have seen a lot of heat or miles and show low rpm.
Was your sled a 154 or 163? Chain and track tension not too tight or too loose? Do you have a clutch tower brace?
First I want to be sure there isn't something besides clutch cal. that is holding it back. Then some small tweaks with pin weight and/or a tooth on the top gear will often give the results you expect. I wouldnt be happy with what you saw. I dont always nail it perfect on the first try but will do my best to make it right.
Thank you for the feedback.

 

[Caper11]

Well put a couple days on in some decent snow last week. And ran it against a bone stock sled still in brake in mode and he stomped me. He was pulling about a constant 5 kph better then I was. I even had him take mine to compare. He was pulling 65 and I was only getting 60. I was getting 65 before. He was on clicker3 and I was on clicker 5. Question. Will it come back if i drop back down to the 19 tooth gear? Or do I take a little weight out. The suggest pin weight in the kit was 15.9g And when I used the pins and screws they suggested to get 15.9g it wieghed in at 16.5g. So either my scale is out or they are out on there little suggestion card. I would say it is my scale? So where do I go from here> It was pulling 7900-8000 and holding it but would like that speed up a bit.

What gearing are yah running? Could your sled pull clicker 4?
With the stock 441 ramps I was running 16.9g of weight. Clicker 4-5 in handlebar deep snow. Sustaining 40/41 mph with the 2.42/1 ratio.
I geared mine down recently to 2.52/1 from 2.42/1.

I was in Mcbride with another RB clutched sled that's same weekend as u and we were both running on clicker1, he has 2.42/1 gearing.
Something does sound off, the snow was about the same from vale to Mcbride. I was very cold up top in renshaw -20 so My buddy and I were surprised to be on 1.





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[SaskSummit]

I am running the 21 tooth gear sent with the kit. And stock bottom gear. I was on clicker 4 but would only pull 7700-7900. Went to clicker 5 and sled felt a lot better. Yes the temp was cooler on Friday then Thursday. I had thought that if I go back to the stock 19 tooth top gear it would correct it? I appreciate all the input.