Reset break in mode

[Stevemtb]

Do you guys bother getting your etec put back into break in mode after a basic top end rebuild? Didn’t blow just changing pistons as maintenance.

 

[kimrick]

Nope.

Only after a warranty engine swap by dealer.

I have a real good buddy on his 3rd break in mode on his 850 with tons of miles in Revelstoke.

 

[AkNomad]

When I had my engine rebuilt at my local motorstports shop they put it in break in mode, I don't know about just doing a top end though, doesn't really seem necessary imo.

 

[maxwell]

you have 2 options. Run 100:1 premix first tank or get the breakin mode reset. dont do nothing

also, put the sled into summarization mode 2-3 times. this will prime the oil lines to the rave valves since you had them off

 

[bobsledder]

you have 2 options. Run 100:1 premix first tank or get the breakin mode reset. dont do nothing

also, put the sled into summarization mode 2-3 times. this will prime the oil lines to the rave valves since you had them off

Don't ya use buds to prime all the injection lines before 1st startup on new engine?

 

[maxwell]

Don't ya use buds to prime all the injection lines before 1st startup on new engine?

If it’s a complete shortblock yes, but when doing a top end the only oil lines you are removing is the rave valve lines. All the others would remain primed. I’ve done lots of short blocks aswell snd the summarization mode works just fine as opposed to priming with buds if that’s not an option. There is so much assembly oil on the new engines they can run a couple minutes just fine

 

[mountinman]

If it’s a complete shortblock yes, but when doing a top end the only oil lines you are removing is the rave valve lines. All the others would remain primed. I’ve done lots of short blocks aswell snd the summarization mode works just fine as opposed to priming with buds if that’s not an option. There is so much assembly oil on the new engines they can run a couple minutes just fine

I'm doing a top and bottom end rebuild, preventative. How do you prime all oil lines without BUDS?

 

[maxwell]

I'm doing a top and bottom end rebuild, preventative. How do you prime all oil lines without BUDS?

I dont know that you can without it unfortunately. As i dont know that the summarization mode sends a pulse to the bottom end or not.....

i know lots of guys just run premix and go when changing the engine but i wouldnt risk it as direct injection engines dont get the fuel/oil mixture to the crank

 

[mountinman]

If it’s a complete shortblock yes, but when doing a top end the only oil lines you are removing is the rave valve lines. All the others would remain primed. I’ve done lots of short blocks aswell snd the summarization mode works just fine as opposed to priming with buds if that’s not an option. There is so much assembly oil on the new engines they can run a couple minutes just fine

Looks like I can just make sure I've got a couple teaspoons of oil in the case halves and fill the water pump gear cavity and run summerization a few times and it should be OK?

 

[MK4TDI]

Looks like I can just make sure I've got a couple teaspoons of oil in the case halves and fill the water pump gear cavity and run summerization a few times and it should be OK?

When I did my engine change, I put it into summer mode 3 times on the first heat cycle, then 2 times on the second heat cycle, then one more for the 3 heat cycle. After that it went straight into the box then to the dealer and for $$160 they put the unit in breakin, reset the tpms, calibrated the raves, and purged the oil system.

$160 is pretty cheap insurance to make sure that new engine has a good breakin. Personally I that's not where I would be trying to save a few bucks on a $3k engine.

Dealer wanted around $1400 to R&R the engine.

 

[mountinman]

When I did my engine change, I put it into summer mode 3 times on the first heat cycle, then 2 times on the second heat cycle, then one more for the 3 heat cycle. After that it went straight into the box then to the dealer and for $$160 they put the unit in breakin, reset the tpms, calibrated the raves, and purged the oil system.

$160 is pretty cheap insurance to make sure that new engine has a good breakin. Personally I that's not where I would be trying to save a few bucks on a $3k engine.

Dealer wanted around $1400 to R&R the engine.

That's a good point. I'm doing the rebuild myself. I can just get them to purge the system and put it back in break in

 

[MK4TDI]

That's a good point. I'm doing the rebuild myself. I can just get them to purge the system and put it back in break in

We have a local shop here now that has a buds system, they will do the "new engine reset" for an hour of shop time which is $100.

Might be another option for ya depending on location.

 

[mountinman]

We have a local shop here now that has a buds system, they will do the "new engine reset" for an hour of shop time which is $100.

Might be another option for ya depending on location.

There's a dealer in town here. I'm not really worried about putting it back in breakin mode, more about purging oil lines. I'll see what they want to do it. Been reading that it's not necessary and will be fine cycling the summerize mode, however, it's probably worth an hour charge just for peace of mind.

On another note. I'm seeing guys saying the center bearings need isoflex, the old crank I'm taking out was getting oil, no doubt there. Guys on doo-talk are claiming they should be packed with iso on install, guess it won't hurt anything

 

[team dirt]

I did the wife’s g4 this Xmas out in the bush so buds was not an option. I just lubed up everything I could before putting the new engine in and heat cycled twice. No reset of break in. Sleds ran almost 800km now no issues.

 

[vanislerev]

when i put the new shortblock in my XM i just ran 3 back to back summer storage cycles then took it in and had the dealer reset breakin mode.