Grizzly Brakes on a 660
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mudboy
Active VIP Member
Done the back one and no issues. Really quite quick and simple
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- #3
Done the front pretty easy the toughest is getting the fluid reservoir off
ttpowersports
Active VIP Member
ya the guys inthe back shop say even i could do it:d:d:d:d
but i say
and then they do it
T
but i say
and then they do itT
Major
Active VIP Member
When you bleed the brakes I rig up a small hose like off a fish tank air pump that will fit over the bleed port. run that to a old bottle. that way you wont make a mess with brake juice. make good and sure you tighten all stearing components on the reassembly. this could save your life. I have the shop manual if I can figure out how to send it to you PM me and I will do my best.
leonard
Active VIP Member
There is no need to bleed anything.
first there is 2 bolts holding the breaks on the front.
you take them off pull the caliper off the rotor. then i take a flat head and pry between the break pads to the push back the plunger , take the pins out.. sometimes i take a C clamp and with the old pad in i use it to push back the plungers all the way in.. then i quickly pop the pads out and pop in the new ones before the plunger has time to move. put your pins back in the caliper to retain the pads.
slip it back on the rotor and bolt it up.
wala no bleeding nothing give the breaks a few pumps and they will tighten up.
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on the rears you have to be slightly more careful. Only because the plungers come from both sides on the rear and if you squeeze one the other side will fall out.. so what i do is . Remove the retainer plug with a alen. then remove the pin with a alen.. take the clip out that holds the breaks in.. then i take a BIG flat head and pry it between the 2 old pads until they are MAX separated i think last time i used a very small prybar to get them all the way seperated this pushes the plungers EVENLY to there fullest opening preventing one side from falling out "learned that the hard way the first time".
and then you can drop in your 2 pads around the rotor. put the clip back in and then pop the pin in. install the set pin. and your done.
To clarify on the rears you do not have to take the caliper off at all. the breaks pop out the side.
easy stuff 20 min job to do all of them.
the 700s are similar but its like doing 4 fronts.
first there is 2 bolts holding the breaks on the front.
you take them off pull the caliper off the rotor. then i take a flat head and pry between the break pads to the push back the plunger , take the pins out.. sometimes i take a C clamp and with the old pad in i use it to push back the plungers all the way in.. then i quickly pop the pads out and pop in the new ones before the plunger has time to move. put your pins back in the caliper to retain the pads.
slip it back on the rotor and bolt it up.
wala no bleeding nothing give the breaks a few pumps and they will tighten up.
----------------------------------
on the rears you have to be slightly more careful. Only because the plungers come from both sides on the rear and if you squeeze one the other side will fall out.. so what i do is . Remove the retainer plug with a alen. then remove the pin with a alen.. take the clip out that holds the breaks in.. then i take a BIG flat head and pry it between the 2 old pads until they are MAX separated i think last time i used a very small prybar to get them all the way seperated this pushes the plungers EVENLY to there fullest opening preventing one side from falling out "learned that the hard way the first time".
and then you can drop in your 2 pads around the rotor. put the clip back in and then pop the pin in. install the set pin. and your done.
To clarify on the rears you do not have to take the caliper off at all. the breaks pop out the side.
easy stuff 20 min job to do all of them.
the 700s are similar but its like doing 4 fronts.
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