G5 Quick Change Axle

[Dawizman]

That's just a bad setup imo - my tki on xm has been great for 6000kms - only thing I found was the top sprockets were mushing out on the backside of the sprocket and causing multiple issues - got a stainless ring pressed into the new top sprocket - tried posting a pic but it won't let me - proper belt tension is crucial cuz the belt gets tighter after a rip - I helped a guy winch his sled onto his sled deck at eagles that had a C3 kit on his gen4 he had nothin but issues with it I guess

I don't disagree it was likely a bad setup. Frustrating part is, it was installed and maintained by the manufacturer. Honestly, they were great to deal with. After dealing with the constant failures though, it makes a guy think twice about going that direction again. Maybe it was bad tension on my part, but I just see so many design flaws with the belt drives. Being open to the elements is one major flaw I see. You can't convince me that sucking snow and whatever else through the belt & pulley isn't going to have some effect on particularly when the instructions are so specific on belt tension.

 

[kingcat162]

I don't disagree it was likely a bad setup. Frustrating part is, it was installed and maintained by the manufacturer. Honestly, they were great to deal with. After dealing with the constant failures though, it makes a guy think twice about going that direction again. Maybe it was bad tension on my part, but I just see so many design flaws with the belt drives. Being open to the elements is one major flaw I see. You can't convince me that sucking snow and whatever else through the belt & pulley isn't going to have some effect on particularly when the instructions are so specific on belt tension.

It's a minto setup on an xm - I guarantee I won't have to touch this belt drive system now with the stainless collar pressed into the top sprocket till the motor blows on me - not the slightest bit of snow gets into this setup - sounds like everyone should steer clear of the c3 till some more r&d is done maybe I dunno

 

[jcjc1]

You're not running them cuz doo doesn't offer them! If doo offered it you guys would be claiming that it was the best set up ever! As for well designed, really don't hear of many issues and they've been out since 2013. ...more than long enough for issues to present . . don't know of any aftermarket chaincase "upgrades" being offered

never said they weren't well designed, didn't last, or not better for those that frequently change gears, track, whatever. my point concerns the supposed performance improvements, that's it. i'm thinking that's why the vast majority of people buy them.

 

[Caper11]

Mine was a TKI. It was ok once I figured out the belt tension after the pulleys warmed up, but I had issues with the top pulley, the tensioner. Granted I had one of the very first TKI systems and there were design upgrades.
Cutting the running board on a T3 was another thing that Unimpressed me when the T3 came out.

 

[banditpowdercoat]

It's a minto setup on an xm - I guarantee I won't have to touch this belt drive system now with the stainless collar pressed into the top sprocket till the motor blows on me - not the slightest bit of snow gets into this setup - sounds like everyone should steer clear of the c3 till some more r&d is done maybe I dunnoView attachment 253059View attachment 253060View attachment 253061

Was that the inside or outside of the top pully that let go? Also, Is there a 'fence' on the bottom pully of the TKI as well? Reason I ask is I have had to make a fix for a few Kurt's gear down belt drives for the top gear as well. With Kurts, there is no tensioner, same as stock Polaris. A fence on inside of bottom gear, and a fence on outside of top. The top gear has a thinner fence and the belt mushrooms it over when you sidehill a lot. I CNC up a nice thicker 6061 fence that bolts on to eliminate this weakness

 

[kingcat162]

Was that the inside or outside of the top pully that let go? Also, Is there a 'fence' on the bottom pully of the TKI as well? Reason I ask is I have had to make a fix for a few Kurt's gear down belt drives for the top gear as well. With Kurts, there is no tensioner, same as stock Polaris. A fence on inside of bottom gear, and a fence on outside of top. The top gear has a thinner fence and the belt mushrooms it over when you sidehill a lot. I CNC up a nice thicker 6061 fence that bolts on to eliminate this weakness

There's only a fence on tki's new top sprocket that I just got done with the stainless insert - bottom 66 tooth sprocket doesn't have a fence - has a tensioner - old setup was no fence on either - never had an issue - back of the top sprocket mushrooms due to just being too soft with the heat and lots of kms - problem with the turbskee is the hp powers through any driveline issues till something seriously let's go - I never noticed any issues with mine till stuff started letting go

 

[Teth-Air]

I've gone through 4 belts in 2000km. Not real impressed with the aftermarket kit.

Factory, I may be interested.

You must not be tensioning correctly as that is how they fail.

 

[Teth-Air]

never said they weren't well designed, didn't last, or not better for those that frequently change gears, track, whatever. my point concerns the supposed performance improvements, that's it. i'm thinking that's why the vast majority of people buy them.

The belt is super light. Can you feel the lag due to the weight of the chain when it goes from a stopped position to spinning super fast? Maybe not, especially on the G4 because that motor is all bottom end torque. On a Polaris it is more evident as their 850 is more mid to top rpm HP. Some guys like light clutch components and titanium bolts in the clutch and other rotating parts too. I for-sure noticed my motor rev faster on my 2011 Doo 800 when I removed the ring gear. Same idea.

 

[Dawizman]

The belt is super light. Can you feel the lag due to the weight of the chain when it goes from a stopped position to spinning super fast? Maybe not, especially on the G4 because that motor is all bottom end torque. On a Polaris it is more evident as their 850 is more mid to top rpm HP. Some guys like light clutch components and titanium bolts in the clutch and other rotating parts too. I for-sure noticed my motor rev faster on my 2011 Doo 800 when I removed the ring gear. Same idea.

I have a hard time seeing much for theoretical gain with belt vs chain given the fact that you're ultimately spinning a 45+lb track while shoveling a large amount of snow, and moving a 400+lb machine and rider. Sure, lightening the secondary, drive, track, etc will give some gain overall, but I just can't see it being substantial given the weight you are propelling at the end of the day.

I can totally understand the gain from lightening the primary clutch though. It is not directly coupled to the track like the secondary and everything beyond is. There will be noticeable increase in how fast the engine revs with a lightened primary, at least until the clutches start to shift out, at which point it will be less and less noticeable as you approach full shift.

 

[Caper11]

I have a hard time seeing much for theoretical gain with belt vs chain given the fact that you're ultimately spinning a 45+lb track while shoveling a large amount of snow, and moving a 400+lb machine and rider. Sure, lightening the secondary, drive, track, etc will give some gain overall, but I just can't see it being substantial given the weight you are propelling at the end of the day.

I can totally understand the gain from lightening the primary clutch though. It is not directly coupled to the track like the secondary and everything beyond is. There will be noticeable increase in how fast the engine revs with a lightened primary, at least until the clutches start to shift out, at which point it will be less and less noticeable as you approach full shift.

Agreed, Two identical 163 doo sled one with a belt drive, and one without. Unloading both sleds off my deck without a rider and letting them coast down the ramp, take a guess which one rolled the easiest.


It was not the BD sled.

 

[banditpowdercoat]

FWIW, Cogged Belts have more friction than chains or gears at low RPM, ie rolling in shop or off a trailer. BUT at higher RPM, the Centripetal force actually lifts the belt off the pulley just a bit, reducing its contact friction, where the chain, each link's friction increases the faster they bend around, as well as the chains mass and angular momentum changing with each direction change of the heavier chain increases it's friction exponentially with RPM. Is it enough to make a difference in a sled? Highly doubtful anyone will "feel" it but on a Track Dyno, you will see something.

 

[sledneck__11]

Why are people arguing about belt drive/chain drive if you want a noticable dif the best one in my expireince, throw aftermarket shocks on these summits the suspension is my biggest complaint every year, i run raptors and it was night and day dif in ride quality, jumps and drops and at the end of the day im not all beat up and ready for the next day, also when climbing and u hit a old barried track and it sends u off on a dif route the raptors soak it up and keeps the sled planted

 

[Dawizman]

Why are people arguing about belt drive/chain drive if you want a noticable dif the best one in my expireince, throw aftermarket shocks on these summits the suspension is my biggest complaint every year, i run raptors and it was night and day dif in ride quality, jumps and drops and at the end of the day im not all beat up and ready for the next day, also when climbing and u hit a old barried track and it sends u off on a dif route the raptors soak it up and keeps the sled planted

All around? Did you do the torsion delete as well? Really on the fence with a shock package. The stock Fox on my Hardcore are way better than the Summit X shocks.

 

[sledneck__11]

All around? Did you do the torsion delete as well? Really on the fence with a shock package. The stock Fox on my Hardcore are way better than the Summit X shocks.

Nope just 4 raptors, of all the brands skidoo byfar has the worst shocks my brothers new cat has pretty awesome shocks from factory.

 

[maxwell]

Depends, I’ve ran both. The factory calibrated shocks make the sled handle best with the least effort but do leave something to be desired in the big bumps and jumps forsure. Better stiffer calibration means more effort to get on edge

 

[sledneck__11]

Depends, I’ve ran both. The factory calibrated shocks make the sled handle best with the least effort but do leave something to be desired in the big bumps and jumps forsure. Better stiffer calibration means more effort to get on edge

Def need to do some tweaking its not one size fits all but rather then 1500 for the new screen and 1000 for belt drive id throw that money at shocks everytime