Fix Kit Install First Timer

[007sevens]

His is a MNTEK Kit

 

[JMCX]

That's a lot of oil for 50 miles. More than 2-1/2 turns should cause and may be the problem. Were you premixing last tank too? Pull the primary clutch and watch the lever on the oil pump as you work the throttle. It should rotate counter clockwise while increasing IIRC.

 

[Jorgy]

That's a lot of oil for 50 miles. More than 2-1/2 turns should cause and may be the problem. Were you premixing last tank too? Pull the primary clutch and watch the lever on the oil pump as you work the throttle. It should rotate counter clockwise while increasing IIRC.

Do you mean the secondary? It does rotate with the throttle assembly towards the rear of the sled (counterclockwise) so it's still making contact. If I've turned it too much does the adjustment screw still rotate?


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[Jorgy]

I'm curious as to what you find the issue is. I'm looking to do fix kit in near future. Where did you order yours from?

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Went with the mtn tek performance kit, bought it from Chris at Parkland Motorsports. Great guy go deal with and knows the kits very well. There is two kits, the regular fix and the performance kit which for $100 extra has lighter Pistons and approximately 4-5 more hp


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[007sevens]

What's weird is how consistent the bog is on the stand or on the hill. It's dead on 5050-5800 and it's the same characteristics almost every time, except for the odd time when boondocking Id go to grab a handful it'll continue to bog. This was maybe 4-5times all last weekend. Once again making me lean towards injectors. One other thing is oil consumption. I have oiler turned up 2.5 turns from last season, no change this year. I put on 50 miles oil tank started right full and is now down hallways to the add line. Wonder if my oil line is wide open if I maybe knocked it during install, see photo below.//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161110/0d14f715246d05e027354fea17d5b9f6.jpg


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Take a picture of the screw you turned to increase the oil. Are you sure you did not turn the throttle Sync screw.


Oh wait you said that you did that last year.

 

[JMCX]

Do you mean the secondary? It does rotate with the throttle assembly towards the rear of the sled (counterclockwise) so it's still making contact. If I've turned it too much does the adjustment screw still rotate?


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The oil injection pump is on the motor below the throttle bodies. That's what you need to look at. With a small inspection mirror you can even check the alignment marks

 

[007sevens]

I have seen the oil pump rod get knocked off, this would default to wide open but you would think it would smoke really bad.

 

[Jorgy]

I wouldnt say it smokes bad but i feel like its worse than last year slighty. I did put 32oz of oil in the first tank so thought that was why but its the same still. I will dive into this today and have a look it something is off. Might just reset back to stock and put it on the stand to see if theres any difference. Weird that it would cause such a consistent bog (if it is the issue) but as I've read these engines do have a lean spot already in the mapping in the mid range.

 

[Dragonalain]

I have seen the oil pump rod get knocked off, this would default to wide open but you would think it would smoke really bad.

I have first hand experience with this statement being false. Couple years ago I helped buddy put a fix kit in his sled. He was in a hurry and assemble the last part on his own. I asked if him if he was 100% sure all the bolts and parts were put on properly he said they sure were. Well he went like 2 km and locked it up solid. He called me up told me what happened, I said I'll swing by tmw. I seen it right away the oil lever was not hooked to the throttle body.
I've heard before it goes to wide open when unhooked but now I know this is false. Unless for some crazy reason it locked on something else but when we tore it apart it sure looked like it was lacking oil.
I guess u can't always believe everything u read on the internet haha.


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[Jorgy]

I have first hand experience with this statement being false. Couple years ago I helped buddy put a fix kit in his sled. He was in a hurry and assemble the last part on his own. I asked if him if he was 100% sure all the bolts and parts were put on properly he said they sure were. Well he went like 2 km and locked it up solid. He called me up told me what happened, I said I'll swing by tmw. I seen it right away the oil lever was not hooked to the throttle body.
I've heard before it goes to wide open when unhooked but now I know this is false. Unless for some crazy reason it locked on something else but when we tore it apart it sure looked like it was lacking oil.
I guess u can't always believe everything u read on the internet haha.


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So I've checked the adjustment on the throttle bodies and the lever going into the crank case. They both move when I move the throttle and release back down when I let off. How do I know if the oil pump is wide open?


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[Jorgy]

This is after riding 50 miles last weekend as it, let me know what you guys think for the plugs. Gold is gold but wondering if my tip is too black meaning too much oil

Also it looks like my oil adjustment tab is bent, how do I get this straightened out?

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[Jorgy]

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[Rhodesie]

that tab for the adjuster is mangled. it should be parallel to the coolant crossover. they do bend easy but you just need to wedge a small screwdriver in there to stop it from bending while making adjustments.

 

[Jorgy]

that tab for the adjuster is mangled. it should be parallel to the coolant crossover. they do bend easy but you just need to wedge a small screwdriver in there to stop it from bending while making adjustments.

I am going to turn the oiler down a turn so will fix that when I do.

Took it to the dealer today to clear up a couple items. TPS is perfect, compression is 118psi per side, computer showed 4 codes: egt sensor (last year), tss (8 times last year and they thought it was really loose so we tightened it up), 1 pto injector code high voltage and 1 det code mag side. Sounds like if injectors was my issue that code would be thrown way more than one. The DET is a mystery...I've never had it det on me.

Confused now other than back to thinking I have too much oil going through. Turn down the oiler and ride it I guess


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[007sevens]

I have first hand experience with this statement being false. Couple years ago I helped buddy put a fix kit in his sled. He was in a hurry and assemble the last part on his own. I asked if him if he was 100% sure all the bolts and parts were put on properly he said they sure were. Well he went like 2 km and locked it up solid. He called me up told me what happened, I said I'll swing by tmw. I seen it right away the oil lever was not hooked to the throttle body.
I've heard before it goes to wide open when unhooked but now I know this is false. Unless for some crazy reason it locked on something else but when we tore it apart it sure looked like it was lacking oil.
I guess u can't always believe everything u read on the internet haha.


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Copy and pasted from page 2.15 of the Polaris Pro Ride Service manual. Sorry your wrong, a oil pump on a Polaris Pro Rmk will default to wide open when disconnected


9. Carefully disconnect the oil pump linkage arm from the cam on the throttle body assembly. Note that the oil pump lever will rotate over-center to the full open position after it is disconnected, and will need to be installed correctly during reinstallation.

 

[007sevens]

I am going to turn the oiler down a turn so will fix that when I do.

Took it to the dealer today to clear up a couple items. TPS is perfect, compression is 118psi per side, computer showed 4 codes: egt sensor (last year), tss (8 times last year and they thought it was really loose so we tightened it up), 1 pto injector code high voltage and 1 det code mag side. Sounds like if injectors was my issue that code would be thrown way more than one. The DET is a mystery...I've never had it det on me.

Confused now other than back to thinking I have too much oil going through. Turn down the oiler and ride it I guess


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I just don't believe oil will cause a bog at a certain rpm. Over oiling can cause issue with the way it runs but you should be able to see that easy enough. I had an engine kit I bought from a non reputable guy that is better know as Tow Rope Ted in Kelowna. his junk would make a bog in the mid range. I pulled that out and put in a Mntek kit and problems gone. I know that they made a kit for 08-10 models, 11-12 models, and 13-15 models. I don't know the difference between these kits. Might be something you want to check. maybe you got the wrong kit. Just grasping at straws.

 

[Rbrduk]

Here's a question. After doing some maintenance on the power valves on my 12. Would the guiltings go in flipped 180 degrees. And if they do, would it cause the problem

 

[Jorgy]

Here's a question. After doing some maintenance on the power valves on my 12. Would the guiltings go in flipped 180 degrees. And if they do, would it cause the problem

I had this thought too, I pulled them out when I replaced bellows and springs, they are in the correct way with the bigger tab of the guillotine I believe on the bottom. Which ever side it is cant remember.

If im being realistic with myself and following the list of things I've done and possible variables the only one left is fix kit. Even with 118psi in each cylinder I just am out of things to check considering it ran flawless last season. What are some potential reasons I could have this low of compression? I have all four rings at 0.021-0.022 gap and they kit says 0.017-0.028. Are the rings still seating at this point?

One thing I have forgot to mention to this point is the sled takes a very long time to heat up and cools off very quickly. When riding it is 125 all day long but if I shut it off for 5 mins when I start it back up itll be cooled off to 95-100. Where as before it would start up at 140 and work its way down to 120 in about 10 seconds. I did a complete coolant replacement with polaris 60/40 premix but still seems odd. Would new coolant and too much oil be a reason for the engine being so cold? Sorry for so many questions guys I just have two weeks here before I am gone sledding for 5 straight weekends, if I need to pull it apart again it needs to be soon.

 

[007sevens]

Here's a question. After doing some maintenance on the power valves on my 12. Would the guiltings go in flipped 180 degrees. And if they do, would it cause the problem

They will not. They can only be install one way.

 

[007sevens]

I had this thought too, I pulled them out when I replaced bellows and springs, they are in the correct way with the bigger tab of the guillotine I believe on the bottom. Which ever side it is cant remember.

If im being realistic with myself and following the list of things I've done and possible variables the only one left is fix kit. Even with 118psi in each cylinder I just am out of things to check considering it ran flawless last season. What are some potential reasons I could have this low of compression? I have all four rings at 0.021-0.022 gap and they kit says 0.017-0.028. Are the rings still seating at this point?

One thing I have forgot to mention to this point is the sled takes a very long time to heat up and cools off very quickly. When riding it is 125 all day long but if I shut it off for 5 mins when I start it back up itll be cooled off to 95-100. Where as before it would start up at 140 and work its way down to 120 in about 10 seconds. I did a complete coolant replacement with polaris 60/40 premix but still seems odd. Would new coolant and too much oil be a reason for the engine being so cold? Sorry for so many questions guys I just have two weeks here before I am gone sledding for 5 straight weekends, if I need to pull it apart again it needs to be soon.

Double check that they fix kit you have is the correct kit for the 15. I wonder that maybe your port timing is off. Like I said grasping at straws.