Fix Kit Install First Timer

[Jorgy]

Currently doing a Mtntek Fix Kit install on my 15 pro with roughly 900 miles. A little bit early but I am expecting to put on at least 1000 miles this year. I've taken the head, cylinder, and pistons off and have kept all the o-rings and gaskets in good condition. Can and should I reuse all of these? Is there something I apply to the gaskets if reusing? Also, for the cylinder and head bolts, do you guys use locktite on the threads and a sealant and the heads?

I am looking for some install tips and advice to ensure everything goes smoothly. Please post any tricks you have, such as for keeping the piston rings in place when placing the mono block.

Also, what is the procedure for re-filling the coolant system and heat cycles for initial break-in?

Thanks in Advance!

 

[JMCX]

I have done a couple of these now and just helped my friend do one this weekend. He has 4400km on his 14 and everything was mint. You are definitely premature in doing this unless it was abused somehow. The unusual piston/cylinder problems with these motors was pre 13.

You will have no problem reusing gaskets/o-rings at that low mileage. No locktight on cylinder or head bolts. Some of the other fasteners yes. You will see silicone under the head of the head bolts, you probably should freshen that but I've neglected that with no issue.

Check the ring gap. If you have to adjust it keep it on the tight side of the spec.

Here is the most important part. Those longer bolts are too long. Cut a couple threads off each and dress the end properly.

IMHO heat cycling is complete BS. Yes, when you're done, fire it up, warm it right up so the cooling system pressureizes. Check for leaks and if it's all good leave it alone until there's snow to ride. The key to bleeding the cooling system is getting the tunnel sloping up towards the motor and use the bleeder at the thermostat of course

 

[Jorgy]

I have done a couple of these now and just helped my friend do one this weekend. He has 4400km on his 14 and everything was mint. You are definitely premature in doing this unless it was abused somehow. The unusual piston/cylinder problems with these motors was pre 13.

You will have no problem reusing gaskets/o-rings at that low mileage. No locktight on cylinder or head bolts. Some of the other fasteners yes. You will see silicone under the head of the head bolts, you probably should freshen that but I've neglected that with no issue.

Check the ring gap. If you have to adjust it keep it on the tight side of the spec.

Here is the most important part. Those longer bolts are too long. Cut a couple threads off each and dress the end properly.

IMHO heat cycling is complete BS. Yes, when you're done, fire it up, warm it right up so the cooling system pressureizes. Check for leaks and if it's all good leave it alone until there's snow to ride. The key to bleeding the cooling system is getting the tunnel sloping up towards the motor and use the bleeder at the thermostat of course

This is great info, thank you! I know its premature, honestly for 900 miles there is very minimal scoring at the top and bottom of the piston. When they were still in I rotated each side to the top of the cylinder, front had gap while the back was tight. Not awful but noticeable.

With the ring gap, are you saying if the rings are too tight to trim down the rings to a smaller diameter for less play? Should the rings be set for the new pistons right from MtnTek?

With the bolts, do they still thread in all the way or this a must do? Seems silly on a kit that comes with the shim you think they'd be able to size it right.

 

[TDR]

The rings in that kit typically come with too tight of gap and need to be filed a little. If they are too tight it will seize. I've never cut the bolts shorter in the 6-7 I have installed. Definitely doing this early. Most 14-15 don't even need this kit.

 

[JMCX]

Best if you google about fitting rings. The gap is set to your cylinders not the pistons.

The cylinder shim is about 5mm thick but the new bolts are 10mm longer. I've only done two of these kits but on both the bolts would start to snug up and you could still move the cylinder up and down a little. Running the bolts in further with the torque wrench is obviously working for most but l didn't like how the clamping force must be affected.

 

[neilsleder]

For the best advice I would give Chrisco on here a pm or call him at his shop. Not saying JMCX is bad advice it's good just Chris is a dealer and knows his stuff. And as for reusing the gaskets I never would! For the price of a kit why chance blowing one in the back country. Put new ones in for peace of mind!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jorgy]

Thanks for the advice guys, keep it coming! I'll be sure to update once I've completed, hopefully this can be a good thread for others with the same concern. While I've got the cylinders out I'm wanting to clean the exhaust valves since I turned my oiler up last season and it's good to do every year. Does anyone have any tips for that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[007sevens]

Thanks for the advice guys, keep it coming! I'll be sure to update once I've completed, hopefully this can be a good thread for others with the same concern. While I've got the cylinders out I'm wanting to clean the exhaust valves since I turned my oiler up last season and it's good to do every year. Does anyone have any tips for that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

pretty simple really, pull the out clean up the gunk and replace.

 

[gdhillon]

Thanks for the advice guys, keep it coming! I'll be sure to update once I've completed, hopefully this can be a good thread for others with the same concern. While I've got the cylinders out I'm wanting to clean the exhaust valves since I turned my oiler up last season and it's good to do every year. Does anyone have any tips for that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your right about that! Mine is a 14 with 100 ish miles. I've been contemplating doing mine in the off season as well. How much did the kit cost you OTD if you don't mind me asking

Do you happen to have any pics of the project? I've never done a top end before

 

[Jorgy]

Your right about that! Mine is a 14 with 100 ish miles. I've been contemplating doing mine in the off season as well. How much did the kit cost you OTD if you don't mind me asking

Do you happen to have any pics of the project? I've never done a top end before

I bought the kit from Chris @ Parkland. He gave me the best deal I could find at $805 for the performance kit which has the lighter Pistons fora couple extra hp. Plus as mentioned on here already he is great with the pros and is always willing to offer great advice. The regular kit is about $100 less. Pics below are from tearing it apart. I was pleasantly surprised with the condition of the Pistons and cylinder. Minor scoring and cross hatching is still decent on the cylinders. Still might hone, we'll see. The toughest part was ensuring not too lose the circlips when removing Pistons. I filled the crank with shop towels so nothing can fall in there...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[prairie-rider800]

I did the fix kit on my 13 a few years ago and had no issues with the longer bolts. I decided to use all new gaskets and o-rings because for what they are worth I figured it was better just to change them. I didn't have the proper tools for filing rings and honing the cylinders so I took my pistons, cylinders and rings to the dealer and had them do it. They honed the cylinders, checked the clearances, set the ring gap and cleaned up the gasket surfaces for 0.5 hrs labour. I thought that was well worth it to know it was done right!

 

[Jorgy]

I'm starting to agree with you prairie rider. I am going to buy a new base gasket, and all new O rings. Then everything is fresh and tight. I am taking my new Pistons, rings and cylinders to Mot's machinery to have them hone and also trim the rings. Them all I need to do is install!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jorgy]

Wanted to update here so anyone else doing this for the first time has something to follow. I took apart my exhaust valves and cleaned them following the service manual. Couldn't believe how black and gummed up they were. Didn't take any pictures but the inside of the rubber flange was completely black, guillotine was completely covered as well. I took apart the entire assembly and sprayed thoroughly with brake cleaner, wipe with paper towel and washed with water. What a difference. If you dont do this every year...you should. I also wasn't happy with the amount of carbon build up in the cylinders between the valves and y-pipe, so I completely cleaned all the carbon and oil build up. Cylinder is now spotless. Put the valves back on with new gaskets, y-pipe and gasket. Applied oil to the inside of the bores while it sits overnight. Tomorrow should be install of the fit kit. I know I am premature doing the kit, but now that I've got the peace of mind everything is cleaned and ready to go I should be able to ride worry free for the next two seasons before looking at it again.

 

[indyguy]

Have a look at your motor mounts and check if they are loose or broke while you have stuff apart. It sucks when you put stuff back together and then notice 2 motor mount bolts broke.............

 

[JMCX]

Be sure to check how the cylinder bolts feel as you run them in by hand. I'm curious if yours start to snug up before the head of the bolt touches like the ones I did.

 

[Jorgy]

Be sure to check how the cylinder bolts feel as you run them in by hand. I'm curious if yours start to snug up before the head of the bolt touches like the ones I did.

JMCX, I did pay attention to this when installing the cylinder bolts. I measured to shim (5mm) and the bolts (~9-10mm longer). However they threaded in no problem with no much resistance until it was time to torque. Cylinder was tight and even on the gasket. I torqued to the low end of the spec (38ft/lbs) and then did 42 for good measure. Started it up tonight for the first time and I have no leaks, everything seems tight. Weird that you've had issues with yours. I've been meaning to ask Chris what he has experienced, maybe you had a bad batch of bolts.

 

[007sevens]

possible coolant in the holes.

 

[nosaj82]

I didn't think the 15's needed the fix kit. I thought problem was fixed on the 14's and newer. Can someone clarify please.

 

[Popik]

You are right the 14's and up sorted out. I did mine last year with 2500 miles on it and it wasn't due. I wouldnt discredit any advise given by JCMX as he knows the Polaris better than most.

I would also recommend pulling your reed cages and checking for chipping while your that far apart. Mine has two that were just starting to chip and caught them early.

Cheers

 

[JMCX]

possible coolant in the holes.

No, the bolts were definitely starting to touch where the threads aren't cut as deep at the bottom of the hole. I've only done two of these fix kits and it was the same on both a 13 and 14. I can see how people wouldn't pick up on it and it's not causing issues that I'm aware of. If l ever do another l will get the micrometers out to see if l can prove my point.