chaincase oil on an xp

maxwell

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thats incorrect...unless we are talking about differant plugs..it should take 250ml like mentioned. only for the chain to dip in the bottom of the casing.
 

summitx

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There is a small magnetic plug on bottom of the chaincase like Flabbajabba says pull it and fill till the oil comes out (level with bottom of hole) that's how the owners manual says to do it. It actually takes one full bottle of the Doo Chaincase oil. All I do is pull the case cover, drain and clean up all the old oil then replace the chaincase cover and dump in the bottle of doo synthetic oil. 15 minute job at most.
 

maxwell

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yeah ok i thought he was talking about the rubber breather plug at the top lol. those brp bottles are 250ml i beleive

use ATF works just as good. dont buy that rip off brp stuff.
 

maxwell

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lol yeah i know thats what i thought at first. but been running it for over 5 years now. its a very popular thing to do. theres a thread about it on snowest if you look. alot cheaper if your like me and like to change your gearing around alot.
 

j335

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lol yeah i know thats what i thought at first. but been running it for over 5 years now. its a very popular thing to do. theres a thread about it on snowest if you look. alot cheaper if your like me and like to change your gearing around alot.

Don't mean to bash or anything, but I tried ATF once and after a few rides it was pretty dirty. I then tried the Cat stuff (in my old Cat) and found it was much cleaner after several rides.
This was just regular ATF, nothing special just the cheap stuff, maybe this is why??:twocents:
 

sledslut

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in the service manual it says to pull the black plug at the top of the chain case, then drain the oil, pull the case cover off and inspect the chain and clean the face plate and the chain case. re install. fill 250ml from where you removed the black plug, and or, there is a bold on the side of the case thats infront of your toes, and wait tell it comes out of there and wait tell its not running out anymore.

have fun!!
 

summitx

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bottle of BRP synthetic oil is about $25.00.... once a year change, not too worried about hte cost of the oil.
 

takethebounce

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Wow some pretty interesting info in here....

1st - the bottles of Synthetic fluid are 355ml. Mine took just shy of the entire bottle before it came out the inspection plug with the magnet. That is the full mark. I let it settle and to be sure removed the plug again to make sure it wasn't overfilled.

2nd - the reason why someone would have found that the ATF fluid was coming out dark or dirty is because of the high detergent content.

3rd - the BRP stuff is equivelent to GL-5 gear oil rated for severe conditions.

There is no way I would run ATF fluid in my chain case for extended periods, even if I changed it every weekend. The only purpose I could see for running it is to cleanse the chain and gears and even then that is a questionable process.

I am sure some of you run it with no issues....but it doesn't have the viscosity to protect the components in chaincases and is subject to thermal degradation.

Do yourselves a favor if you really want to stay away from $25 bottles of BRP and buy yourself a jug of Mobil One 75w-90 synthetic which meets the GL-5 requirement. You get ten times the amount for roughly the same price.

just my .02 cents.... :cool:
 

maxwell

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so explain why most gearboxes *(chain and gears) in trucks run atf? thermal degradation? so everyone should switch there vehicles over to gear oil despite manufacturers reccomendations if it dips below freezing? hmm
 

maxwell

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Chain case lube is not there to lube between the gears and chain (that area doesn't need any lube at all) it is to lube between the pins and plates of the chain, and needs to be thin to get in there. Gear lube is intended to stick between gears and not squeeze out, totally different situation.

Gear oil is NOT made for chain and gear systems.... Its made for gear to gear contact

transfer cases They have the same chain and if you use gear oil it is so thick that it can become trapped between the chain and gears at speed and cause the chain to snap or stretch.
 

j335

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Wow some pretty interesting info in here....

1st - the bottles of Synthetic fluid are 355ml. Mine took just shy of the entire bottle before it came out the inspection plug with the magnet. That is the full mark. I let it settle and to be sure removed the plug again to make sure it wasn't overfilled.

2nd - the reason why someone would have found that the ATF fluid was coming out dark or dirty is because of the high detergent content.

3rd - the BRP stuff is equivelent to GL-5 gear oil rated for severe conditions.

There is no way I would run ATF fluid in my chain case for extended periods, even if I changed it every weekend. The only purpose I could see for running it is to cleanse the chain and gears and even then that is a questionable process.

I am sure some of you run it with no issues....but it doesn't have the viscosity to protect the components in chaincases and is subject to thermal degradation.

Do yourselves a favor if you really want to stay away from $25 bottles of BRP and buy yourself a jug of Mobil One 75w-90 synthetic which meets the GL-5 requirement. You get ten times the amount for roughly the same price.

just my .02 cents.... :cool:

Straight from the BRP service manual says 250 mL or 8.5 ounces... Your free to put more as it probably won't hurt...
 

flabbajabba

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me either. but when you change your gearing once a week it adds up.

Have you tried the roll it to the side trick I was surprised that it worked. Roll the sled onto the left side and all the case oil stays in when you take the cover off!:d Saved me 25$. I had already changed the case oil and second guessed my gearing.
 
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