Need a sidewalk done want it professional not what 6 guys with 8 dozen beer can do :d
Anyone pour concrete?
- Thread starter Murminator
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #2
Hired someone thanks for looking
plio7
GBCA Member
let me know if it falls through, i have done alot of concrete and also know guys who do it
brew_doo
Active VIP Member
I am only one guy but will do it for 7 dozen beer. :d
:dThat didn't take very long to find someone, wow. But anyways, just make sure you look at their previous work, to many people out there that don't know what they are doing. I can also doing it, been doing concrete for to long 
ZRrrr
Active VIP Member
Murm,
If you are happy with the work can you PM the name of the company.
While I'm at it, I will make another go of it here as well.
I have an 18' x 22' addition to do to my garage. I have engineered drawings for the concrete work. 5" to 6" concrete slab on grade. 25MPa. 10mm x 24" rebar tied into existing slab every 32" O/C with adhesive. Thickened edges. Sawcut. Easy Bobcat access.
Here is my caveats:
Do not come and create some arbitrary number out of your head.
Do not add 20% just because you see my toys. I have worked VERY hard for what I have.
Do not keep making appointments you can't keep. If truly interested, show it.
Do not pretend you know concrete.
Do not ask for money up front or to "borrow my tools".
Just looking for honest, straightforward work at an honest price and of good quality. I'm a fair and honest guy too. I thought this year would be better but I seem to keep getting the wrong people/companies.
Anyone interested shoot me a PM.
Work could be started within the next month.
If you are happy with the work can you PM the name of the company.
While I'm at it, I will make another go of it here as well.
I have an 18' x 22' addition to do to my garage. I have engineered drawings for the concrete work. 5" to 6" concrete slab on grade. 25MPa. 10mm x 24" rebar tied into existing slab every 32" O/C with adhesive. Thickened edges. Sawcut. Easy Bobcat access.
Here is my caveats:
Do not come and create some arbitrary number out of your head.
Do not add 20% just because you see my toys. I have worked VERY hard for what I have.
Do not keep making appointments you can't keep. If truly interested, show it.
Do not pretend you know concrete.
Do not ask for money up front or to "borrow my tools".
Just looking for honest, straightforward work at an honest price and of good quality. I'm a fair and honest guy too. I thought this year would be better but I seem to keep getting the wrong people/companies.
Anyone interested shoot me a PM.
Work could be started within the next month.
sledderdoc
Super Senior Member
I am only one guy but will do it for 7 dozen beer. :d
:d:d:d:d ..............
That is downright sad people are asking for those things. My dads been doing concrete for over 30 years, me and my bro roughly 6. Any real company it should be paid on completion, and have ALL their own tools.
As far as those specs, they seem OK, but I would change it a bit. 30 MPA concrete, the extra cost is extremely minimul and that much stronger concrete. Also, I would put all the rebar into existing pad, with epoxy and put them 16" centres both ways. IMO thickened edges are a waste of concrete, garage walls are NOT heavy.
Just as a note for anyone getting prices. A basic 4" pad, 10mm rebar on 16" centers, 30 MPA concrete, anything over about 350 SQ FT should be $11 SQ/FT at MOST, once it gets to double that or so, $10. Anything under that much, can get up to over $17 SQ/FT.
For what your looking at, ZRrrr i'd say your looking at $5000 or so for that pad. Depending on what exactly you want.
Depending on what you are putting the garage(load wise) i would use welded wire mesh, comes in 7'6"x20' sheets with 6" centers.(extremely good for crack control and comes in several different gauges) I reinforce concrete for a living (GF with Harris rebar). Anyway, tighter grid usually means less chance on cracking, provided it it sealed and cured properly. Finishing concrete is a talent for sure....made easier with todays technology. 10M @ 24" seems like a big spacing to me....just saying, wouldn't be my garage pad.10 M @ 12" for sure if I was doing rebar. I would put a slab thicking at the entance and put two 20 M rebar in there entending 3-4 feet past door on each side should be good enough IMHO. Good luck
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No offence but have you seen pads 10-15-20 years down the road that just use mesh compared to rebar? I can pretty much tell what a pad has in it buy the shape, whether it's nothing, mesh, or rebar, and I can tell you right now nothing and mesh look VERY similar. Mesh will prevent very small cracks but that's it. It will not stop the concrete from shifting and breaking up bad, rebar will (for the most part). The best thing is rebar and mesh tied together, but really mesh isn't that much help. Mesh will not stand up in Alberta's climate in a non heated pad that sees frost, heaving, etc rebar is a MUST.
Personally, if it was my pad I would be doing 6" thick, 5/8 rebar on 12" centers. If the ground was not very good, would be adding a pile per 75 SQ/FT.
I've personally seen a loaded Tractor easily 30,000lbs drive on and turn one pad i've done 4" thick with rebar on 2' centers and it did nothing to the pad. Concrete is VERY strong if done right and it has a good base.
JoHNI_T
Active VIP Member
hey what about this fiber mesh they throw into the truck as it pours??this was used for my back yard pad and stamped accent around my exposed driveway,,,I know its not going to see near the weight of a garage pad butwas just wondering what u concrete guys think of that stuff,, its only 2 months old now??
thx
thx
No offence taken but there is mesh made out of #2 bar that will hold up to just about anything(installed it in machine shop at diamond mine in Snapp Lake,N.W.T, gets cold up there). I've seen several columns 4' in diameter that are supposed to have 65 mpa concrete get jack hammered out because it's a bad mix.Alot of the time it depends on the engineer. I agree one hundred percent on the 15 M @ 12" in the 6" slab (25-30 mpa). Concrete is Very strong in compression only...just saying. Sorry about the hi-jack.Cheers
Ah ok, I though you were talking about standard mesh, this is like 1/8" thick. Might as well use chicken wire
Yes, the concrete is the most important part, currently replacing driveways 1-2 years old that are already peeling, because people don't know what they are doing. I am not a fan of most engineers, because they know the book part and nothing practical, which means many don't know anything about it.
I have never used fibremesh, but I personally wouldn't trust it. I don't see it having the strength of rebar. It would be good for hairline cracks, but that is why you sawcut or put in control joints. Was your stamped border tied into the driveway at all? You MUST have reber tieing them together, or they will shift and move differently and the border will not stand up. The proper way to do it (MOST people don't) is form everything and put steel in it all, but only pour 2/4 inches in the border part, and leave it rough so the border will stick to the driveway part. This way it will all be one, but it is a ton more work so most don't bother. Frost is the hardest thing on a pad. Vehicles, garage walls, etc are not heavy. Walking on your pad, you are putting more PSI on the pad then your walls.
ZRrrr
Active VIP Member
I looked into the fibre too and was told that it is not good for climate because we actually need room for expansion and contraction. Fibre does not allow this...at least for pads anyway. Great for warmer climes though.
Although the engineer did up the plans (as required by the city) I am completely open to suggestions by those of you who have practical experience. This is what I wish some of the gys showing up would do. Offer real suggestions based on good experience. Any of you guys interested in quoting, let me know.
Although the engineer did up the plans (as required by the city) I am completely open to suggestions by those of you who have practical experience. This is what I wish some of the gys showing up would do. Offer real suggestions based on good experience. Any of you guys interested in quoting, let me know.
Not sure if my dad can fit anything else right now, but I will find out. We are quite busy, not really taking on more concrete jobs this year. And most likely getting a 12,000 Sq ft building complete from dirt to finishing, if so we'll be booked up for a good 6 months plus....
I honestly cannot reccomend any good concrete guys. Peeban, Pyramid etc are terrible and just flat out expensive. Not sure where in Edmonton, but whoever gets the concrete DON'T get it from Tofield concrete, there is something wrong with their concrete, we are replacing many driveways they did just last year not one is in decent shape. The son does the finishing the dad owns the concrete company and they don't do good work, and the kid has only been doing it for a couple years. Just remember, anyone who can fit it in within a couple days isn't busy for a reason.
- Thread starter
- #17
Mine is not done yet hopefully sometime this week I will keep you informed
JoHNI_T
Active VIP Member
lets see some pics
Fiber mesh is not worth the bag it comes in. Johni becareful in your bare feet because if it wasn't finished right, it will stick through the concrete. Did they put a dye in the concrete or is it just plane jane concrete? I'm trying to remember if you had any concrete placed at your house when i was there buying the 07 summit. I believe the driveway was done. Coulda helped you out with some reinforcing. throw away rebar almost weekly at my job. 1.3 million sq/ft high rise in eau claire Next time.
Born2Ride
Active member
Rebar is definitly a must, however, it does not matter how big or how close of spacing the rebar is if the finishers leave it laying on the ground when they pour the concrete. I see this all to often, may as well not even put any rebar in it. The finishers need to lift up the rebar while they place the concrete.
Alberta Residential Building code for outdoor flatwork concrete 32mpa with 5-8percent air.
Alberta Residential Building code for garage floors 30mpa with 5-8 percent air.
Alberta Residential Building code for outdoor flatwork concrete 32mpa with 5-8percent air.
Alberta Residential Building code for garage floors 30mpa with 5-8 percent air.
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