Another clutch alignment / wear questions (with pics)

[SidewaysInto3rd]

Took off the primary yesterday to clean inside and inspect (at 1700 km now)

First thing I noticed is that the mark on the crank was 90* off from the arrow.

I put the clutch at 12 oclock, popped it off using the water method, the crank mark was at 3 oclock .. could the water method turned the crank 90 degrees? I used an impact. I don't think so because the bolt doesn't thread into the crank .. and the primary wasn't turning when I was tightening the bolt . .anyway, asked my dealer they said to align the arrows with the crank mark when re installing

Should the arrows be lined up with the crank mark ?
What are the 2 circles for ?
In another thread I read the small circle needs to be lined up with the arrows, I think this is wrong. .it's the little dot .. so what are the circles for ? the big one doesn't line up with anything and the small one is 60* off from the dot / arrows



Onto the next question .. does the wear mark on the rollers look ok? one of them looks like it's been wearing on one side .. I've replaced the buttons, cleaned the ramps, rollers and sheaves. anything I need to inspect before re-installing the clutch ?

 

[duck]

Took off the primary yesterday to clean inside and inspect (at 1700 km now)

First thing I noticed is that the mark on the crank was 90* off from the arrow.

I put the clutch at 12 oclock, popped it off using the water method, the crank mark was at 3 oclock .. could the water method turned the crank 90 degrees? I used an impact. I don't think so because the bolt doesn't thread into the crank .. and the primary wasn't turning when I was tightening the bolt . .anyway, asked my dealer they said to align the arrows with the crank mark when re installing

Should the arrows be lined up with the crank mark ?
What are the 2 circles for ?
In another thread I read the small circle needs to be lined up with the arrows, I think this is wrong. .it's the little dot .. so what are the circles for ? the big one doesn't line up with anything and the small one is 60* off from the dot / arrows

View attachment 149953

Onto the next question .. does the wear mark on the rollers look ok? one of them looks like it's been wearing on one side .. I've replaced the buttons, cleaned the ramps, rollers and sheaves. anything I need to inspect before re-installing the clutch ?

View attachment 149954

I line up the arrow on the spring holder with the dots. If the rollers are fine internally, then all is good.

 

[MoThEr TrUcKeR]

spring cup arrow to dot, the arrow on the clutch face to the small circle, then the crank scribe to the big circle is how mine is.

 

[sledder325]

if i were you i would replace the rollers, bushing on the sliding half, also the spring , the spring cap as well and the buttons i would say at 1700km all the wear items should be replaced, also your spring in secondary as well, your sled will perform better and it is better to be safe then sorry

 

[MoThEr TrUcKeR]

Doo makes a nice little refresh kit with a new set of rollers, pivot pins, spring cup with bushing, buttons(i think) and movable sheave bushing instead of buying seperately, Its cheaper and good peace of mind

 

[duck]

If your made of money, doo as the above suggested...... Myself, If everything moves freely and the rollers are not worn out and bushings not shot, then run it the rest of the year and inspect before next year. This maintenance should be done every year or more depending on mileage. I have 5500 km's on my 2010 and no wear on mine..... So, you can throw money away if you want to but I would run it as is..... The TRA does live a long time if kept clean as you have done.....

 

[oler1234]

Doo makes a nice little refresh kit with a new set of rollers, pivot pins, spring cup with bushing, buttons(i think) and movable sheave bushing instead of buying seperately, Its cheaper and good peace of mind

If your spending this dough plus gettin someone to do a sheeve bushing, you might as well get a powerbloc 80 clutch for a couple bucks more. It would be brand new and performs better than the tra. Been running one on my BB and it has run stronger than ever.

 

[adamg]

I'm new to this. Bought the tools, used puller to pull primary off sled. Now I can't get the two sheaves apart. I put the puller back in from the sale direction as when I used it to pull primary off crank. Then I beat on the puller with a hammer, also slammed it into concrete floor, but can't get the two sheaves apart. Help.

This is exactly what I am doing, except I am hitting way harder and it isn't moving. 4m 10s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92C7CZuHe2I&feature=player_detailpage#t=250s

 

[MoThEr TrUcKeR]

If your made of money, doo as the above suggested...... Myself, If everything moves freely and the rollers are not worn out and bushings not shot, then run it the rest of the year and inspect before next year. This maintenance should be done every year or more depending on mileage. I have 5500 km's on my 2010 and no wear on mine..... So, you can throw money away if you want to but I would run it as is..... The TRA does live a long time if kept clean as you have done.....

You don't need to be made of money the kits like 137 bucks. You can run it this season just fine if there's no bad wear, I was only saying if he wants to freshen it up, and do preventative maintenance for the millage, that's the way to go. Or you can ride it till the inner bushing goes and takes out the recess then the movable sheave won't keep the bushing in and your left buying a 400 dollar sheave and the kit.(this just happens to my buddy this weekend with 1100 miles) Choice is yours was just stating an option.

 

[SidewaysInto3rd]

I'm new to this. Bought the tools, used puller to pull primary off sled. Now I can't get the two sheaves apart. I put the puller back in from the sale direction as when I used it to pull primary off crank. Then I beat on the puller with a hammer, also slammed it into concrete floor, but can't get the two sheaves apart. Help.

beat it harder .. get a bigger hammer . .it'll come off !!!

Does anyone have a service manual they can scan and post?
I was sure the 2 arrows go together (which is not the same as using the small circle) .. this is also what my dealer told me .. jst want some peace of mind

maybe i'll go to the dealer and have him pull out the manual ! Lol

 

[MoThEr TrUcKeR]

I'm new to this. Bought the tools, used puller to pull primary off sled. Now I can't get the two sheaves apart. I put the puller back in from the sale direction as when I used it to pull primary off crank. Then I beat on the puller with a hammer, also slammed it into concrete floor, but can't get the two sheaves apart. Help.

This is exactly what I am doing, except I am hitting way harder and it isn't moving.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92C7CZuHe2I&feature=player_detailpage#t=250s

It's the same taper fit as the clutch to crank so it'll be tight like that. I put the puller bolt in like you said (make sure there's as many threads meshing as possible, hold the clutch up with my hand palm facing up in between the two sheaves with the chrome shaft between my two muddle fingers and give it a hard smash on the puller while holding it up, and it'll pop right apart. Hope this makes sense.

 

[MoThEr TrUcKeR]

It hurts to hit it so hard but its the only way!

 

[MoThEr TrUcKeR]

I think your right actually with the arrows. I think the punch mark is actually unused, I think when I pulled mine all apart the arrows were both towards the small circle. gotta check tonight now so I know lol!!

beat it harder .. get a bigger hammer . .it'll come off !!!

Does anyone have a service manual they can scan and post?
I was sure the 2 arrows go together (which is not the same as using the small circle) .. this is also what my dealer told me .. jst want some peace of mind

maybe i'll go to the dealer and have him pull out the manual ! Lol

 

[adamg]

OK got it. Had to bang it on the cement floor harder. My poor shiny new puller is no longer shiny or new.

 

[Sask Sledder]

Arrows to arrows to small circle.

Then Big Circle to line on crank end.

These two things are unrelated.

Im assuming its a '12 or '13

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?/topic/478765-2012-E-Tec-Primary-Indexing-To-Crank?

Theres a page frome the manual in this thread

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2

 

[duck]

You don't need to be made of money the kits like 137 bucks. You can run it this season just fine if there's no bad wear, I was only saying if he wants to freshen it up, and do preventative maintenance for the millage, that's the way to go. Or you can ride it till the inner bushing goes and takes out the recess then the movable sheave won't keep the bushing in and your left buying a 400 dollar sheave and the kit.(this just happens to my buddy this weekend with 1100 miles) Choice is yours was just stating an option.

The clutch will usually outlast the engine.....just sayin'

 

[SidewaysInto3rd]

I dug this out of a post by DJ from dootalk ..


seems legit !


Page 533
Spring cover arrow index mark to sliding sheave index mark "Drill divot" on face of rim of primary.


Sliding sheave index mark (4mm (5/32")) circle, to Governor cup arrow then...


Page 536
Gov cup arrow to
Sliding sheave index mark (4mm (5/32")) circle to
Fixes sheave index (NOTCH) then


Drive pulley index mark (9mm (11/32")) Circle


in other words, spring cup arrow and gov' cup arrows no longer line up (news to me)


spring cup to divot (or dot), gov' cup arrow to little circle to fixed sheave notch, then big circle to crank mark


The big circle is different on each clutch


Thanks all.

 

[MoThEr TrUcKeR]

Aaah I was right the first time! Shouldn't of doubted myself lol !!!

 

[Sask Sledder]

Mines a 13 and is same as 12.

All arrows line up with notch on back of fixed sheave and small circle. There is no dot.

Large circle lines up with line on crank stub.

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2

 

[SidewaysInto3rd]

Mines a 13 and is same as 12.

All arrows line up with notch on back of fixed sheave and small circle. There is no dot.

Incorrect . There is a dot (see my pic) Arrow on the spring cup goes to the dot, arrow on the governer cup goes to small circle. This means they are 60 degrees apart !

This part threw me off too, but that's how my clutch was when I took it apart, and I'll take DJ's word on it as he typed it out straight from the manual

governer cup arrow and small dot line up with fixed sheave notch, big circle to crank