450 kodiak squealin rear brake

ttpowersports

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actually working on a front box with marine speakers and a ipod launch station..... but i usually have something else in the front box.... and my wife is worried no one will like my george thourougood.....and other real artists

T

p.s. never liked ipods too small , no motor.....lol
 

Garryese

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You probably wanted a serious answer, so here goes:
  • OEM brake pads (aftermarket are often too hard)
  • Silicone the pads to the caliper
  • Replace gouged, excessively warped or magnetized discs
  • Warp a perfectly true disc (.002 - .005)
  • Hone a swirl (non-directional) pattern into the disc (NAPA sell a disc brake rotor hone)
  • If the brake fluid is dark and opaque, replace it.
  • Make sure is not a bearing that is squealing
  • Make sure the caliper mount is not bent.
 

ttpowersports

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well great minds think alike i v done it all except the bending new disc and buffing it, but i will try that, nothings bent.. unit only has 540 km...nick name squeaky... needs a new home but need to cure -finger nail on board sound-- or i could sell it with a free ipod.....

and i appreciate ur sense of humor, life is too short to be serious.....:d:d:d

T
 

Garryese

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... except the bending new disc and buffing it, ....

T

Buffing it may aggravate the problem. The hone will leave a circular cross hatch pattern on the braking surface.... much like a cylinder fine cross hatch except on a flat surface. The tool looks similar to a large die grinder/drill wire wheel, but it has abrasive beads on it like a cylinder bead hone. Side view kind of looks like this:


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|_______|
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ooooooo

I've seen it done with a flywheel grinder, but that leaves a true (no run-out) disc, which then needs a small warp introduced into it.
 

ttpowersports

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Remove the rear pads and cap the hydraulic line to the rear cylinder. :d

ur 1 funny ducker captin ron....... i may do that to ur unit next time its in ha ha ha , ,., hey thanks a gain for the barb q steak and ah refreshments.:beer::beer:. next time my place,,,, but u still have to cook....:d

T
 

ttpowersports

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Buffing it may aggravate the problem. The hone will leave a circular cross hatch pattern on the braking surface.... much like a cylinder fine cross hatch except on a flat surface. The tool looks similar to a large die grinder/drill wire wheel, but it has abrasive beads on it like a cylinder bead hone. Side view kind of looks like this:


___||___
|_______|
||||||||
ooooooo

I've seen it done with a flywheel grinder, but that leaves a true (no run-out) disc, which then needs a small warp introduced into it.


message loud and clear, u can tell i dont actually do the work my self...:eek: when i say we i mean the boys in the shop... u sure u dont want to move to b ville. nice country, lots of trails, .....nice shopss to work at..... lol

thanks again

T:)
 

Grizzly4323

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ok guys open up the secret box and let me know what you guys are doing to make the rear disc stop squealing.... :confused:


T

Did Kodiak brakes a couple times. First time pulled off and buffed. Worked good for a while. Second time brought a couple sets of brakes in from the US. Worked great. I'll have to check other package I have to see who supplier is. :beer::beer:
 

leonard

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heh I changed the pads and my 660 stopped squealing.
assuming you have new pads. well the above is all i got as well.
 

Wise Mechanical

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I've been running EBC severe duty pads and it seems like if you burnish them in, and get them real hot when you first put them on they last longer and they are quieter, they still get noisy at times it seems i think its a kodiak grizzly thing?
 

Altapeet

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I had the same problem with my 400 kodiak, dealer in Peace river told me to put aftermarket pads on as the yamaha pads are too hard, I did that and the noise went away . I havent had a problem since That was maybe 800 km ago I do not recall the brand of pads they were though ,sorry
 
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