What rivets to use?

[ippielb]

Pop rivets for holding on tunnel braces, and bumper, I have put it together right now with 1/8" aluminum pop rivets for a test fit. Wondering if a guy should do stainless rivets, I'm afraid of having to drill them out after.

Here's what it's looking like with aluminum rivets.

 

[Lund]

Pop rivets for holding on tunnel braces, and bumper, I have put it together right now with 1/8" aluminum pop rivets for a test fit. Wondering if a guy should do stainless rivets, I'm afraid of having to drill them out after.

Here's what it's looking like with aluminum rivets.

Alway's use stainless, aluminum will eventually come loose.
Plus you should be using a power riveter, a hand riveter won't set the rivets as tight.

 

[Frankenytro]

Princess auto sells a decent pneumatic rivet gun. Be sure not to cheap out and just buy the good one ( The blue one ). I think it is like $150 or so but has lifetime warranty ( of course ) and handles 3/16 stainless rivets better than the others. The real bonus is that after 200 rivets only your trigger finger will feel like you have been working instead of your arms and hands feeling bagged from popping them by hand.

 

[neilsleder]

X 3 on stainless rivets! Don't use steel ones because the steel and aluminum will fight!


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[ThrottleOps]

Should he be using a washer on the backside of the rivit or no?


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[Lund]

Should he be using a washer on the backside of the rivit or no?


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No washer needed. The trick though is to use a good quality stainless 3/16 rivet from a fastener supplier and a power riveter.

 

[gibsons]

Depending on how long you plan on keeping the sled, but I told myself I would never use stainless again for the fact if you have to do any repairs the stainless are a pain in the ass to remove.

 

[ippielb]

Arctic cat's rivets are a zinc plated steel with steel core. I like the steel because they squeeze and hold better then aluminum, and they aren't as bad to drill out as the stainless. I'm completely at a loss for what to put on, 1/8" or 3/16", stainless for the drop brackets and bumper, and then aluminum with backers for the panels? Or steel on everything? I have no idea anymore.

I have a phneumatic rivet gun, that I LOVE lol princess auto special and it has never given me a single problem, I have a $50 bag of stainless 3/16 rivets(100 pieces) but I used a couple to hold on my cooler, and I tried to grind off the core that never snapped flush or below the cap and holy crap how would anyone ever hope to drill one out...

 

[Lund]

Arctic cat's rivets are a zinc plated steel with steel core. I like the steel because they squeeze and hold better then aluminum, and they aren't as bad to drill out as the stainless. I'm completely at a loss for what to put on, 1/8" or 3/16", stainless for the drop brackets and bumper, and then aluminum with backers for the panels? Or steel on everything? I have no idea anymore.

I have a phneumatic rivet gun, that I LOVE lol princess auto special and it has never given me a single problem, I have a $50 bag of stainless 3/16 rivets(100 pieces) but I used a couple to hold on my cooler, and I tried to grind off the core that never snapped flush or below the cap and holy crap how would anyone ever hope to drill one out...

Ok, maybe this will help you. All the mod shops use stainless when doing tunnel mods or most anything when it comes to fasteners. I have built several mods and have worked with Chad at CR-racing on several projects. My current modified Nytro is fasten together with stainless and has been for several seasons now.

Regular steel will rust unless you paint it or better powdercoat it. Aluminum rivets will come apart or start loosing its grips in little time and your sled will start coming apart. Aluminum rivets are useless for structural strength and in time will fail.

3/16 is what we use.
Yes they are a biotch to remove but the idea is not to remove them. They can be drilled out with a titanium drill bit and an air drill.

You could use aluminum rivets on none structural parts like lights, reflector brackets, plastic cover's etc.

 

[Frankenytro]

I have 2 cr mod pros and just sold my cr mod nytro and everything is 3/16 stainless. For the drop brackets I have stainless socket head button screws just for the reasoning of possibility for replacement of the drop bracket itself. Everything else "should" be a permanent fixture.

 

[ippielb]

Ok, maybe this will help you. All the mod shops use stainless when doing tunnel mods or most anything when it comes to fasteners. I have built several mods and have worked with Chad at CR-racing on several projects. My current modified Nytro is fasten together with stainless and has been for several seasons now.

Regular steel will rust unless you paint it or better powdercoat it. Aluminum rivets will come apart or start loosing its grips in little time and your sled will start coming apart. Aluminum rivets are useless for structural strength and in time will fail.

3/16 is what we use.
Yes they are a biotch to remove but the idea is not to remove them. They can be drilled out with a titanium drill bit and an air drill.

You could use aluminum rivets on none structural parts like lights, reflector brackets, plastic cover's etc.

I used edge caps to tie in the side panels Witt the top plate since I don't have access to a bender. Every 3" I have a 1/8" rivet to hold it together. I also have the stock extension underneath so there is something to hold it together.

I have 90 or so 3/16" stainless I can use, but they're so damn expensive $50 for 100 pieces. Can a guy get away with using the 1/8" on holding the panels together?

I'll use stainless 3/16" for drop brackets and the bumper and tunnel roll gussets.

 

[Cableguy]

make sure to use the correct length also too long is no good either unless you use a washer on the backside

 

[Lund]

I used edge caps to tie in the side panels Witt the top plate since I don't have access to a bender. Every 3" I have a 1/8" rivet to hold it together. I also have the stock extension underneath so there is something to hold it together.

I have 90 or so 3/16" stainless I can use, but they're so damn expensive $50 for 100 pieces. Can a guy get away with using the 1/8" on holding the panels together?

I'll use stainless 3/16" for drop brackets and the bumper and tunnel roll gussets.

It should be ok, stainless 1/8 ?
3/16 is the standard used but 3" spacing with 1/8 will be strong.
Is this a tunnel extension?

 

[CUSO]

I use the Stavex BS11 rivet. It is strong, and the backside seals up also.

We have a place in Edmonton called Accufast tools. They sell to all the sled builders in town here.

https://www.bayfastening.com/produc...el-blind-rivets/stavex-multi-grip-rivets.html

 

[MoThEr TrUcKeR]

X2^ used these for my cr boards on my xm back in the beginning of 13 and their still like the day I put them in with a 260lb rider beating on them for 2700 miles

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[Frankenytro]

Accufast for this guy too. 3 different part numbers for the 3 different lengths and very price efficient. Buy 10 or 10000 she's totally your call.

 

[ippielb]

Advantages to living in a large city I guess, no access to those kind of specialty rivets here. I have around 90 3/16" stainless steel, 75 1/8" stainless long pull, 50 1/8" stainless medium pull, and 100 1/8" aluminum backers for a snug fit on the 1/8" rivets.

Made a bumper out of 1/8" thick 6061, nice to know someone with a plasma table. We made it so the bumper handle is raised, so can actually get your hand under it when your stuck and the snowflap is straight out the back.

 

[Turblue]

Ive done 4-5 tunnels with my princess auto pneumatic air riveter.....mattic industries in calgary is where i get my rivets and these are the 3 kinds that are about the best....all 3/16"


Varigrip 2 SS rivet (cr racing uses these) expensive but are the best
Stavex rivets used these on a couple yamahas worked great
solid aluminun hammer rivets...need snapon rivet bars for air hammer....form to out of shape holes and tight fit..requires 2 people and be careful or the tunnel will have smiley faces if you get off the rivet with air hammer

 

[Valonmxz]

Ive done 4-5 tunnels with my princess auto pneumatic air riveter.....mattic industries in calgary is where i get my rivets and these are the 3 kinds that are about the best....all 3/16"


Varigrip 2 SS rivet (cr racing uses these) expensive but are the best
Stavex rivets used these on a couple yamahas worked great
solid aluminun hammer rivets...need snapon rivet bars for air hammer....form to out of shape holes and tight fit..requires 2 people and be careful or the tunnel will have smiley faces if you get off the rivet with air hammer

Solid rivets are the best option. They won't come loose
Takes a bit of practice so don't try this until you master is on some scrap.

 

[ippielb]

Anyone ever extend their drop bracket down by bolting another pice to the original drop bracket? I want to lower my drop bracket down about an inch. 2010 m8 drop bracket is what I have on now.