Track change

[martincc]

Can anyone give advice on changing a track? mine had a bad run in with the scratchers last season and broke off a lot of the outer paddles. Its a 2008 xp 163". Any pics or procedure would be much appreciated.

Also, I've found a few good used stock tracks for ~300-600 dollars, is there a better aftermarket track in that price range?

 

[EMANAARON]

Can anyone give advice on changing a track? mine had a bad run in with the scratchers last season and broke off a lot of the outer paddles. Its a 2008 xp 163". Any pics or procedure would be much appreciated.

Also, I've found a few good used stock tracks for ~300-600 dollars, is there a better aftermarket track in that price range?

Probably wont find a aftermarket track in that price rand for 1000 you can get a Como Extremem which in my opinion is one of the better tracks you can buy.

Tip for pulling the brake Caliper BUY THE TOOL!!!

 

[maxwell]

Probably wont find a aftermarket track in that price rand for 1000 you can get a Como Extremem which in my opinion is one of the better tracks you can buy.

Tip for pulling the brake Caliper BUY THE TOOL!!!

ya get the puller tool saves alot of beating and heating which is hard on things.

also

dont pay more than 500 for a takeoff track from years 2009-2010 and do not get a track from a 2008.

the challenger extreme 163.2.5 will run you 800$ but will also require a driver change.

best to stick with the stock track for simplicity

 

[martincc]

thanks, I am going to go with an 09 stock replacement. Anyone have a rough procedure on how to remove the track?

 

[maxwell]

Set the parking brake.
Disconnect the speed sensor connector.
Place a drain pan under chaincase bottom area.
Loosen chaincase cover screws and pull cover.

Remove the upper sprocket screw and washer.
Release tension from drive chain by unscrewing
the tensioner adjustment screw.


Remove the lower sprocket circlip.
Remove sprockets and drive chain.
Release parking brake.
Remove belt guard.
Remove the brake disc protective cover.
Remove the caliper protector retained by 4
screws.
Remove the circlip securing disc brake to drive
shaft.
Turn drive axle to align brake disc slots with
caliper bracket screws.
Remove caliper screws (4) behind
disc brake.
From under frame, turn the LH bearing flange
counterclockwise to unlock it from frame.
Release drive axle sprockets from track and
at the same time, pull the drive axle assembly
(with bearings) toward braking mechanism
side.


NOTE: Make sure brake disc holes are aligned in
order to see caliper mounting bolts holes.
Install the CALIPER PULLER (P/N 529 036 145)
on the brake caliper, through brake disc slots.
Turn puller center bolt clockwise to separate
axle shaft bearing from caliper.
Move the drive axle assembly toward right, into
chaincase.
When brake disc is out of splines, remove it.
Remove caliper from axle shaft.
Do not let caliper hang by the hose
and do not stretch or twist the hose.
NOTE: Make sure track is well positioned (high and
forward) to ease drive axle removal.
Move the drive axle assembly right end out of
the chaincase, then towards the right side to
remove it from vehicle.

 

[Depsnolvr]

ha, ur helping me with mine right........?

 

[flabbajabba]

I just bought a 2.5x163x16 and was going to sell my stock track(163) its only got 1200 kms. Why are the 08's bad? Its an 08 by the way.:d
Depsnolvr how much do you want to spent for rails? Id buy Iceage if it was me. But if you want to make a deal on my stockers I might upgrade.
Martincc my 163 (08) is for sale.

 

[maxwell]

ha, ur helping me with mine right........?

lol you bet

 

[maxwell]

I just bought a 2.5x163x16 and was going to sell my stock track(163) its only got 1200 kms. Why are the 08's bad? Its an 08 by the way.:d
Depsnolvr how much do you want to spent for rails? Id buy Iceage if it was me. But if you want to make a deal on my stockers I might upgrade.
Martincc my 163 (08) is for sale.

depends if your machine came with the challenger lite. that was a terrible track known for tenching. really hard to get rid of. they work well in hard pack conditions. but some 08 machines came with the newer track that is now on the 09/10 machines

 

[team dirt]

depends if your machine came with the challenger lite. that was a terrible track known for tenching. really hard to get rid of. they work well in hard pack conditions. but some 08 machines came with the newer track that is now on the 09/10 machines

I think you had the option when snowchecking what track you got on that year.

 

[martincc]

thanks for the advice guys. Maxwell do you have a repair manual for this sled or did you have all that memorized!? Thanks again.

I have a line on a used 09 track, but will let you know should that fall through.

 

[EMANAARON]

thanks for the advice guys. Maxwell do you have a repair manual for this sled or did you have all that memorized!? Thanks again.

I have a line on a used 09 track, but will let you know should that fall through.

HAHA i think he is the "Service Manual"

 

[maxwell]

i usually pretend i know what im talking about

 

[martincc]

looks like I am going to start this job today.. what needs to be done on the back end of the track, looks like remove the axle which connects to the rear coil spring and tunnel. Is that spring still under tension when the track is fully extended ( off the ground)?

 

[maxwell]

slack off the tension and remove the rear axel with the boggie wheels and remove it.

then remove the top axel that mounts to the frame.

its a floating axel inside. no tension on anything ( same as front )

but the floating shafts are reverse threaded from eachother so you need to turn them the exact same amount at the exact same time in oposite directions to remove.

sometimes this is very diffficult and you may need to work both bolts in and out a few times in order to get them to come out at the same time.

if that doesnt work i have another trick..

 

[flabbajabba]

I just use a impact and lossen one side then tighten it back up then loosen the other and most of the time you can just pull them out, same for front than just pull the skid out. I haven't had to touch the springs yet.

Putting it back in, I find it easy with a floor jack and use a tie down strap to get them lined up when you put it back in.

Buy the brake caliper puller its worth the money.

 

[martincc]

thanks for the help. Got it mostly done today, waiting for the puller to come in. Also noticed I need new sliders, and the RH foot stirrup was broke and needs to be replaced. Anything else i should check while it is all apart? I also adjusted the throttle cable free play. Someone mentioned a bearing on the side of the engine? Its a 2008 summit x 163 with about 4100kms. Zero problems so far... i also would like to check the clutch but am worried about taking it apart as it's never burned a belt, besides me leaving the parking brake on once! what should i look for there?

 

[pistonbroke800]

If you have never had your clutch apart with all those miles. A full service of it would be my first order of buisness.