To All The Cat EFI Owners

[ippielb]

This is for all of the 600cc/700cc/800cc lay down motors with the listed cat part numbers. Which is all m8's and the new m8000's, even the 2016's.

As many of you know, the Arctic Cat fuel injection system has stayed the same since the beginning of fuel injection in the lay down motor sled's. The fuel injectors have three o-rings each, and the fuel rails are held on with 4 small Phillips head screws.

These screws are very soft metal, and often seize in the throttle bodies. I have fought with numerous sled's trying to get them out without damaging the throttle body. They are located extremely close to the injectors and fuel rail, so heat is not an option without risk of burning the sled down, and ruining your injectors.

The 3 o-rings are tortured with heat cycles and weathering. They are also very crucial in safety, you definitely do not want an air leak, or a fuel leak.

You're probably wondering why I'm posting this, but that's where the good news comes in.

The screws are $1.95 a piece from cat 3007-443 is the part number. you have 4 of them on 2 injector rails. i have found a supply of stainless Allen head screws and zinc plated washers that are 1/4 of the price, and you never have to worry about stripped Phillips heads. You can use a simple Allen key to get way more torque on the screw, and ease installation if you run into clearance issues. When installing these screws, it is highly recmmonded to install with an antisieze compound applied to the threads. Here's a picture of the screw and washers. I can also get longer screws if wanted.

Now on the expensive part. The 3 o-rings come up to a total of $131.95, for three o-rings 3005-592 .They may even try to tell you they don't sell the o-rings, and you have to purchas a whole new injector. Well, I have found a supply of injector o-rings for less then 1/4 or the price for a set. I would recommend changing these o-rings if you every take off the injectors on an older sled. Here's a couple pictures of the o-rings on one of my sled's. Cracked, and weather damaged.

Heres the kit I found with all three o-rings in a sealed package.

What I'm trying to see is if there's any interest in a kit that would offer two o-ring kits, and the 4 Allen head screws and washers.

Probably would look to get $30 a kit. That would include 2 sets of o-rings(2 lower, 2 vibration, and 2 upper), four stainless steel Allen head screws, and four zinc plated washers. This would be a full replacement for the o-rings, and screws on the throttle bodies.

 

[Cat401]

If you are making up these....I'll take a set. Good to have on hand when needed.

 

[ippielb]

If you are making up these....I'll take a set. Good to have on hand when needed.

Right now I only have enough for my own personal use, but if I get interest in a few more kits I will start packaging them up. Should be cheap shipping because it can fit in an envelope.

 

[rebel]

If you are making up these....I'll take a set. Good to have on hand when needed.

I would take a set as well.

 

[0neoldfart]

I'd take two sets.

 

[ippielb]

Okay so that's 4 kits, if I get ten I'll throw an order together.

 

[X-Treme]

Sure. Put my name on one. For $30? Can't go wrong.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk.

 

[ippielb]

If I get 5 more people interested before end of tomorrow could probably have them for Thursday, takes couple days to get them(depends on warehouse stock). Then send off to you guys before weeks end. Unless anyone's going to be at crows nest pass this weekend and meet me there.

 

[X-Treme]

I'm in no hurry. Whenever works out for you dude.

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[Eldereldo]

I would take a set. Let me know if it goes ahead and how to pay you.

 

[frock]

I will take 2 sets sir.

 

[ippielb]

Tomorrow I'll check for any kind of clearance issues on the head of the Allen key bolts when installing. To see if I have to include a rounded end Allen key. That's what I used to put mine on. Never tried using a straight Allen key. I can try on three different sled's, m7, m6 and m8, I do not have a proclimb to see if the Allen keys will run into clearance problems. I assume they're fine since they're 1/8" shorter then the stock screws.

 

[Radical Rider]

two sets here as well

 

[ippielb]

Well looks like I'm putting in an order tomorrow morning for some more.

Some tips for changing the seals....

Disconnect the electrical connection to both injectors, cut the zip ties(if any) that hold the wiring to the rail.

the screws might be siezed. Penetrating fluid may or may not help. But it's always worth a try. Spray a LITTLE dab from the red straw on the nozzle, just on to the outside of the stock screw on each screw, a total of 4. Then do the same on the underside of the screw, it goes straight through the throttle body mount so it sticks out a little underneath the fuel rail, put s dab on there as well. I recommend doing this a while before you start trying to take the screws out.

For or a screw driver, find one that has a pointier tip, these stock screws are weird, they're deep but not that large of diameter. Find one that fits it perfect, not just good. That might solve all the issues. when I tried to loosen my screws the first one I buttered to all hell. You really have to push straight down onto the screws. I mean I had my leg wrapped around the ski(while it was on the lift) and pushed with one hand and tried to turn with the other. Regardless I buttered two. One I got out with a set of needle nose vise grips, I managed to turn it ever so slightly.

once I got the buttered ones loose, I added another dab of penetrating fluid to each by the head of the screw, then just rotated the screw clockwise and then counter clockwise, trying to work the penetrating fluid down into the threads. Then I managed to rotate the screw out with the vise grips a lot easier 1/4 turn at a time.

The he other one I buttered I wasn't so lucky, it was stuck half way behind my steering post on my 06snopro mod sled. It also had two bulkhead supports from the upper steering post to the bottom corners so the vise grips weren't going to work. I tried everything to get them loose, the only thing that I managed to do to work them out without drilling the head off was to take a sharp flat chisel and hammer a flat slot in the head, the shock from the chisel, and the new slot for a large flathead gave me the leverage to loosen the screw. Be cautious though, the throttle body is aluminum or magnesium and cast. It's not super strong.

Once you have the screws out the fuel rail is loose, when you lift the rail the injectors will stay in the rail because the upper orings are compressed into the fittings, so cautiously lift the rail, making sure nothing falls into the injector ports. And that the injectors don't fall under the motor.

Once everything's off, the rubber square cut o-rings($100 a piece from cat) will be left in the injector ports, take a o-ring pick, preferably the 3/4 curved, stab the rubber ring without touching the throttle body, and lift it up. There will be vacuum on this part of the throttle body when the motor is running so any scratch will be inviting an air leak.

Here's something you can do when you have the injectors off, take a zip tie and put it through the rail, and around the electrical connection on the injector, plug the wiring harness back in. Tip the rail over the side of the sled angled upwards and pointed away from anything you don't want fuel on, then pull the sucker over. Both injectors should be making an even V shaped spray pattern. You can do a bottle test as well, put a clean clear bottle on each injector, and pull it over a lot, to see if your injectors are putting out the same amount of gas.

But nows a good time to clean them while they're off. First check the screens in the injectors, I found a piece of nylon cord from the previous owner cutting the gas line to remove it, some tweezers, and it was out. Just use carb cleaner a rag, and then a 9v battery with a couple insulated alligator clips. Cycle the electrical current through it while spraying carb cleaner through it to clean them, don't be fiddling with wires at the injectors while spraying cleaner through it might spark and catch on fire.

For installation, just reverse the procedure, put the new square cut orings in, press them down with your thumb until fully seated, remove the upper o-ring with your finger nail(so no risk of scratching the injector body), then slide on the accordion shaped anti vibration rubber ring, and then the small diameter round o-ring. Put a dab of 2 stroke oil on the upper oring, to lubricate them for installation. Slide both into the fuel rails, then guide the injectors into the throttle bodies.

The rest is self explanatory, install the new Allen screws with antisieze, and the washer. Reconnect your electrical connection, zip tie/cable tie your wiring to the fuel rail, and start the sled, check for leaks. You should be good to go.

 

[ippielb]

Got some o-rings coming, they have to come from eastern Canada from a few different warehouses. I'll put the orders in as they come. In order of when you posted in the thread.

 

[Cat401]

Let us know how you prefer to get paid....email transfer, paypal, .....?

 

[ippielb]

I'll wait until i get all the packages, depending on how people are available to pay of course. I'm not too picky, do you get charged for an email transfer?

 

[X-Treme]

I'll wait until i get all the packages, depending on how people are available to pay of course. I'm not too picky, do you get charged for an email transfer?

Yeah, but it's like $1.50. Not gonna make or break it for anyone. PayPal is gonna make YOU pay.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3 using Tapatalk.

 

[ippielb]

Well i know receiving an etransfer is easy on my half. If people are okay with that.

 

[X-Treme]

That'll work perfect for me, anyway.

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