Rhino Clutch setup advice?

[TheMuffinMan]

Hey there guys, I picked up my first Rhino (a 2011 700 Sport) and I'm looking for a little advice on what to do for a clutch mod. I've made a few changes to her already: 28" Mudbugs on 12" ITP wheels and a 2" RDC lift. Basically I'm looking to get back some of the off-idle snap that it had with the stock 25's and gear it down a little to take some of the stress off of the wet clutch. Top speed is not really a concern for me...I like to ride in low speed technical terrain (climbs, creeks, skeg, hopping over logs etc.) and rarely do I get the thing above 40 km/h. Low-end grunt and pulling power are what I'm looking for. I've been riding dirt bikes for years and this is my first experience with an automatic so this clutching thing is new to me; any tips you guys can offer me would be a big help. Thanks!

 

[scoobienorth]

utv inc are the ones to call, they have modded more rhinos than anyone, i have a slightly stiffer secondary spring, their machined sheave and 18g greaseless rollers and their shim for the primary (gives lower starting gear) works really well.

 

[Little Buddy]

There are a lot of clutch kits available. With 28" tires get one similar to the Highlifter extreme. The install is a little bit involved because of the centrifical clutch inside the engine, but not too bad.

There is also a mod for the primary that involves a shim, which will almost pull the front wheels off the ground but your driveline & transmission won't like it. I'm not sure if they have fixed the problem or not but the earlier models had a weak bearing carrier on the middle drive gear. Nearly a $5000 learning experience to be had there.

 

[Albertan]

You should also have a look into greaseless OD weights as opposed to a machined sheave. Hunterworks would be a better source than UTV Inc. for these weights, if you decide to go that route.

 

[Alberta Rhino]

If your prime concern is low end don't waist your money on a remachined sheave it only helps with top end. Purchase a clutch kit such as EPI,s Mudder Kit which will definantily help with bottom end and also a shim on the primary. Not familiar with the HighLifter Kit but I presume they are similar.

 

[QMAO]

Muffin Man sent you a PM. You could also drill your weights a little lighter...about 2 grams should do.

 

[AreWeThereYet]

I would get an MSD before anything, or in reverse you will do nothing but bounce the limiter, and you are gonna need rpm's to turn those tires.

For a cheap test, drill your OEM weights down to 18gr and test, then after that add a 1-1.5mm primary shim.

The last thing you want to touch is the secondary.

If your prime concern is low end don't waist your money on a remachined sheave it only helps with top end. Purchase a clutch kit such as EPI,s Mudder Kit which will definantily help with bottom end and also a shim on the primary. Not familiar with the HighLifter Kit but I presume they are similar.

Ya that's wrong, my UTV sheave is cut on the idle/low side so the rollers rest farther down, I also added a 1mm primary shim to get me even lower.

 

[AreWeThereYet]

Let me fix what I jsut said, the last thing you want to touch is your wet clutch,..

The secondary spring would adjust your back shifting, or mid range engagement. But with too stiff of a secondary, you require more power to overcome the collapse pressure and in some cases is not good if you are stuck because you can't get your rev's up.

 

[jayson]

Arewethereyet would dropping down to the 16gram greaseless weights, from the 18 help with the low end? Already have the msd and 28" zillas

 

[AreWeThereYet]

Arewethereyet would dropping down to the 16gram greaseless weights, from the 18 help with the low end? Already have the msd and 28" zillas

Do you have the 18's now? Before buying any new weights, I would drill your stock 20's and go from there.

I made my setup a cluster&^%k when I did it, I did my clutch BEFORE I had my tires and I wasted a ton of money for nothing.

 

[jayson]

I have the greaseless 18 gram overdrive weights. Just wondering if dropping to 16 gram od weights would increase the low end?

 

[AreWeThereYet]

I have the greaseless 18 gram overdrive weights. Just wondering if dropping to 16 gram od weights would increase the low end?

You don't "increase" low end per se, what you are doing is increasing engine rpm's.

Are they the new shaved ones for low end? Some of the earlier weights need to be shaved .050" so they sit lower at idle. I talked with Hunterworks about this when these first came out, but he ignored me. So I threw in a 1.5mm primary shim to gain back my low end. But have since sold those weights

Albertan-Dean runs 28's with his stock 20's(soon to be my stock 18's) and it seemed fine to me, the 700's have power and the FI helps quite a bit.

 

[jayson]

they prob are the earlier weights.

 

[Albertan]

Yeah to be honest, mine runs quite strong with the stock 20gm weights. I'm planning on dropping down to 18gm or even 16gm weights though once I settle on what size BHs I want to run next season.

 

[green-horn]

Judging from your picture muffinman you don't need more torque/horsepower.... you need training wheels:d..sure would like to hear that story though.

 

[Albertan]

Been there, done that. Heck, it's my screensaver at work. The silver ones must be unusually tippy.

 

[TheMuffinMan]

In all honesty...that was the very first drive, and the wife was at the wheel lol! So far that was the one and only tipover she's seen, come close a few other times though.

 

[Albertan]

In all honesty...that was the very first drive, and the wife was at the wheel lol! So far that was the one and only tipover she's seen, come close a few other times though.

Blaming it on the wife.

I say wear it like a badge of honor!

Just kidding. Makes for a cool pic either way.

 

[stfu]

Only thing helps is the spacer on the primary 2mm is as big as you can go.