Frame Swap

[SQUIRTIS]

So, i finally found a frame for my 07 outlander 800
Umm, now my question is to anyone that has swapped a frame or heard of it being done, what kind of troubles have you encountered? Any tips on what should be taken out when and how to make life more easier. And any parts (ie brearings, bolts, blah blah) that i should just replace instead of re-using.
I plan on doing this myself seeing as i have had the quad pretty much tore down and put back together a couple times before. The only thing that hasnt been unbolted is the engine lol.
I dont see it being a difficult job too do, just time consuming.
Any info/help/advice/tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

[medler]

So, i finally found a frame for my 07 outlander 800
Umm, now my question is to anyone that has swapped a frame or heard of it being done, what kind of troubles have you encountered? Any tips on what should be taken out when and how to make life more easier. And any parts (ie brearings, bolts, blah blah) that i should just replace instead of re-using.
I plan on doing this myself seeing as i have had the quad pretty much tore down and put back together a couple times before. The only thing that hasnt been unbolted is the engine lol.
I dont see it being a difficult job too do, just time consuming.
Any info/help/advice/tips would be greatly appreciated.

I have never changed a frame on a quad ,,but i would think the easiest way would be to take lots of pics,,,mark where the special bolts came from and take your time .Like you said it should not tbe difficult...Good luck,,,,,Did you bend the old frame ?

 

[SQUIRTIS]

bend....compressed....twisted....all of the above.
Front tire came off while doing about 75 km/h down a gravel road
FYI to all you fix-it-yourselfers out there...USE NEW COTTER PINS
The hub nut backed itself off and well....you can probly picture how the rest of it went

And ya, 10-4 on the pictures and markings. Was hoping i could just take the part off and put it on the new frame. But sometimes that wont work so thats a pretty good idea.

 

[medler]

Did you get hurt?

 

[steveo10]

ive never done myself but i hear its not too bad. its gonna be a lot of work of course but you shouldnt be scratching your head too much

after the frame is change make sure you fill the hollow frame in. go hard racing has a hard piece of plastic that is made to fit into the frame proper. havent done the mod yet but a friend has one sittin in the garage for his outtie

 

[SQUIRTIS]

Ya, i did get hurt, compressed my T5 vertabry (cant spell) and 9 stiches and a chipped tooth and ya...hurt like hell. lol minor details

and as for the new frame, it will be getting the frame mod done to it, and a fresh coat of paint, should look good

 

[medler]

Ouch

 

[MoAb Racing]

Hey man it was like I was telling ya its not too bad, just keep everything organized. I also have a shop manual you could borrow that helps. You can call me if ya need a hand. Good luck brotha!!!!!

 

[Garryese]

Worse one I have done was a Grizzly that had been parked behind a grader. My advise:

Space, time (~16 -20 hours) and beer; you will want lots of each

The rule to re-assemble in reverse order does not apply in a frame swap.

You have had it apart several times before which means you should already know the items you can put back on without even thinking about it. Those items come off first and go on the new frame last.

Lose the racks, seat, fuel tank and all the plastic you can, then take pics.

Take lots of pictures of the wiring harness(s), cooling lines, brake lines and cable routing; There is only one way these items can go and it is easy forget how it was especially at the top bushing of the steering stem/handle bars. These items cannot be stretched and they were built without extra length to them. These item should also be left as late as possible before removing them and then they should be put on the new frame as soon as possible. Really, this is the only part of the job that can get frustrating... assuming you do not run out of beer along the way.

Once the plastic is gone, try to take related parts off the frame as an assembly. Ie: The front a-arms, shock, axle, tie rods, wheel bearing carrier, etc can come off as an assembly by removing four a-arm and one shock bolt(s), and a few other misc fasteners. As a side note, if you don't need to remove the axle nut cotter pin you will not forget to re-install it! :d

Inspect the steering stem, handle bars, axles, shocks, a-arms, ball joint stems, bearing carriers, tie rods, rubber boots, etc for signs of wear, bends, tweaks and other damage before you start this project. If you need new parts you might as well have them in front of you before you start.

On re-assembly, if a fastener does not have a secondary locking device (lock washer, set screw, cotter pin, etc) then blue loctite is likely a good idea.

You'll need to bleed the brakes, so you might as well flush out the old brake fuild and start with fresh fluid.

Steering stem bushings/bearings are a PITA later. I'd use new ones while it is easy.

If you post your milage/hours other Can-Am owners might be able to give you an idea of maintenance items you have coming up that might be easier to deal with now.

Ask your dealer for a PDI sheet, it is a good check list before you run up after re-assemble.

It's not really that bad of a job. Let us know how it goes.

 

[Mike270412]

Good post Garry!!!!!

 

[blastoff]

should be 20-24 hours job max. at a shop

 

[glassman]

I just replaced my frame in my renegade. Took 7 hours. The only special tool required is a socket to remove the rear swing arms. Very easy job.