can am 650 issues...

maxwell

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#1- overheats all the time. we dont do any mud riding just mountain trails. clean the rad out regularly, fluid is full. fan is fully operational. it will overheat while moving at a decent rate of speed.....i dont get it. seems to me with the fan running even if your moving slow it should be able to keep up just putting along. not like its being bagged through the mud. is this a common problem? should i override the fan and use a switch to have it running all the time? couple weekends ago we used it side by side with a new maverick ALL day. the maverick never went past half bars all day no matter how slow or steep. when the outlander overheated we went the rest of the way with 4 people on the maverick and no problems. so im not convinced its a "canam" thing. since there cooling systems are similar.

#2- usually close to the end of a ride the machine will start cutting out...then run for a second...cut out...repeat. eventually dying and wont run again until you let it sit for a while. fuel pump fuses are burning out also so i think its something to do with that. ive tried to get up canoe mountain with it twice now and as soon as it hits 6500ft it starts cutting out LOL! can never get past that point! im lost!


got someone elses problem basically. dont buy used!
 

Trashy

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With your last line, Sean. Your going to have a difficult time selling your "used" stuff...... just saying.....
 

Trashy

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Have you thought about changing out your water pump?
 

TylerG

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If memory serves me correctly some of the 650's had issues with the rads "swelling" and not allowing air thru them, once they have swollen up there is no way to repair, I believe its a replace with an updated rad. You could check with Gforce his wife had one that had the overheat issue big time.
 

arff

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What year is it.

Has the clutch cover warped from heat?

The reason I am asking is our daughters husband had the same issues with his including the clutch cover warping.

It was in the shop many times and it seems it just could not be fixed.
 

maxwell

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With your last line, Sean. Your going to have a difficult time selling your "used" stuff...... just saying.....

The difference is the stuff I'm selling doesn't have to sell right this second and I tell perspective buyers all issues. Anything used our group has ever purchased has been a huge headache. But somehow when we buy new...we put on way more miles than the used items with no problems. I'm just sayin used will disappoint unless you know what to expect from the owner being honest. Unfortunately that doesn't happen lol
 

maxwell

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If memory serves me correctly some of the 650's had issues with the rads "swelling" and not allowing air thru them, once they have swollen up there is no way to repair, I believe its a replace with an updated rad. You could check with Gforce his wife had one that had the overheat issue big time.

That makes perfect sense. Just not flowing enough volume
 

maxwell

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What year is it.

Has the clutch cover warped from heat?

The reason I am asking is our daughters husband had the same issues with his including the clutch cover warping.

It was in the shop many times and it seems it just could not be fixed.

2009.....replaced the belt a few rides ago belt guard seemed ok.....
 

KWIK RACING INC.

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in 2007 there was a bulletin on the inner clutch cover warping from heat.... not a recall, but a bulletin... some of this carried over into 08... there was also a problem, like Tyler said with the rads swelling and I think, don't quote me on that but I think it was 07, 08 that had that problem.... now with the can-am cooling systems you HAVE to bleed the system for 1/2 hr or sometimes more... even that wont get the air completely out so can-am has two relief screws in the heads to drain off air.. now I know the 800's have the bleed screws but not sure on the 650.. I think they do have them.. bleeding air out of our systems is not a 15 min job... that could be the main reason for the overheating.... MAKE DAM SURE all the air is out of the system.. I have never had a problem overheating in 15000k or since 2007 on my can-ams........... for the feul pump.. have the pressure checked.. you MUST have a constant 51 psi... anything lower and the pump is done.. could be the pump overheating and poping the fuses... so do a pressure check cold and HOT....
 

KWIK RACING INC.

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if your not getting anything into your belt housing, your fine.. that's not the problem anyways, even if you had a wrapped cover... I would check that the T stat is working and if everything is clean then its air in the system.. that's what I think... now the cutting out.. when hot only and popping fuses... well, check that pressure on the pump when hot.. pump could be on its last leg.... you have to be careful not to run out of gas.. these pumps are gas cooled just like your truck or car and running super low or dry and the pump overheats once and then will go to crap a short time after...being a 09 and the swelling rad should of been solved by that year..same with the inner cvt cover... but swelling rad thing did go into 09...
 
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maxwell

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if your not getting anything into your belt housing, your fine.. that's not the problem anyways, even if you had a wrapped cover... I would check that the T stat is working and if everything is clean then its air in the system.. that's what I think... now the cutting out.. when hot only and popping fuses... well, check that pressure on the pump when hot.. pump could be on its last leg.... you have to be careful not to run out of gas.. these pumps are gas cooled just like your truck or car and running super low or dry and the pump overheats once and then will go to crap a short time after...

Great info thanks. It only pops the fuse close to the end of the ride that's when it won't start again. Throw a new fuse in and it fires right up but pops a fuse again at the end of the next ride. Sounds like I definitely have a fuel pump issue. Thanks.
 

KWIK RACING INC.

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the bleed screws are where the water hoses come out of the head.. on the spigot there is a 8mm screw with a green fiber washer under it.. careful with the washer... both front and rear cylinders
 

KWIK RACING INC.

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fill rad with fluid.. open bleeder screws till fluild runs clean, no air... now tighten up leave rad open and full.. start bike.. let warm up till fan cycles.. if thermostat opens and fluild comes out top let it go.. fill as needed.. now crack bleeder screws again.. let air out.. tighten.. let run more.. also shake machine and hit hoses with a hammer to cause vibration... im tellin ya,, its a bit*h with our motors... more overheating problems cause no one knows how to do it right, even some of the dealers who have non brp mechanics work on the bike...
 
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DaveB

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If the fuel pump is marginal it will run crappy and probably lean....IE: hotter.

Trackside in Olds makes their own thermostat....it is a turned-down Ski-doo one that runs cooler than the stock Can Am one....ran one in my 07 for years and it worked great to keep it cooler.
 

DaveB

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Shine a light thru the rad.You said you rinsed it out but if it was plugged with mud when you bought it it might need a good soaking.
I always recommend taking it right out and clean it. I used to just clamp the top and bottom rad hoses so I didn't have to bleed the system again. Take fan off....rad slides out the left side....take shroud off and THEN you will see how plugged it is.
 
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