Belt change out tricks?

NosRX1

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I have a 2010 M8, changed the belt on it last night and to be honest I found it a lot harder then any other sled I've owned. So I am hope to hear back from some members on there methods, good and bad of each. I compressed the spring allowing the belt to fall to the center of the secondary the rolled it over, but compressing the secondary on this sled is way harder then any others I have owned. So I hope to hear back from some of you guys/gals out there.:d
 

Rucky

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I have a 2010 M8, changed the belt on it last night and to be honest I found it a lot harder then any other sled I've owned. So I am hope to hear back from some members on there methods, good and bad of each. I compressed the spring allowing the belt to fall to the center of the secondary the rolled it over, but compressing the secondary on this sled is way harder then any others I have owned. So I hope to hear back from some of you guys/gals out there.:d

Don't need to compress the secondary by itself... Unbolt the secondary, use the bolt to pry out the large washer/spacer, flip the large spacer around and tighten the bolt... It will fully compress the clutch. It's in the owners manual I believe!

Also... getting the belt out of the primary kind of sucks too because the clearance is so tight between the clutch and plastic. Either use the primarys friction against the belt to turn it out, or you could use a heat gun or torch to warm your plastics and give you some more room.
 

NosRX1

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Thanks Rucky, yeah to be honest I kind of just winged it, the owner manual is at my other place..lol. But yeah that does sound a whole lot easier, and with less choice words!..thanks again.
 

m8welder

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Just remember that that bolt on the secondary on takes 32ftlbs of torque which isn't much.I over tightened mine on the holidays and snapped it off and it was a bitcht to get out the broken piece from the crankshaft.also no one in Alberta had that bolt cause it is slotted for cooling so I made my own out of a grade 8 bolt
 

greenlightning86

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I use a rubber oil filter wrench to compress the secondary, pretty easy to do with one hand and remove the belt with the other.
 

Rucky

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Also, if using a big-ish torque wrench on it, sometimes you don't get a definite "click" with these lower torques... So be careful. My cousin just snapped his off as a result of not feeling it. Personally, I just use a wrench and go by feel.
 

Polarblu

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the slot in the bolt is because that is how the DD breaths. if you lay your sled on that side for a while you will understand!! that oil behind your sec clutch comes from somewhere!!
 

medler

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It is a bitch to get off....2 beer and 2 bandaids was my story,,and a few choice words as well...And i just unbolt the secondary..And like Rucky says getting the belt around the primary is tough as well....
 

stormtrooper

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Compress or twist the secondary, whichever way you choose. Also helps alot if you trim the half moon clip that helps hold the side panel in by your primary. you can trim it with a utility knife.
 

Rucky

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On a side note, I wish cat would change the way the belt cover clicks in... Or rather the way it comes out. Cut myself nearly every time trying to pry the stupid little lever while pulling up on the cover... A simple pin of some sort would be lovely. Also not a fan of how it rubs on the APV cables but that's difficult to fix at this point.
 

TROLLCAT

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rubber filter wrench cananadian tire once you try it you won't go back , X2 friggen clutch covers
 

pipes

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Just remember that that bolt on the secondary on takes 32ftlbs of torque which isn't much.I over tightened mine on the holidays and snapped it off and it was a bitcht to get out the broken piece from the crankshaft.also no one in Alberta had that bolt cause it is slotted for cooling so I made my own out of a grade 8 bolt

It's slotted but not for cooling but for venting the diamond drive. It is very important to make sure that the slot stay clear so that the DD can vent properly.
 

I'vegotthenutz

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It's slotted but not for cooling but for venting the diamond drive. It is very important to make sure that the slot stay clear so that the DD can vent properly.

thats right, also do not put any loctite on this bolt as stated in your owners and service manual :beer:
 

BIGHORN1

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another simple way is to just remove the bolt from the secondary and slide it off the shaft, change your belt out and slide it back on. this may not be the " proper way" but it works like a dam.
 

NosRX1

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Ok so to add to this thread I have 600 miles on the belt and when I checked after the last trip there was 2 spot where the thread was pulling out of the belt. What kind of life are the rest of you getting on these belts?
 

Steve D

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I just changed mine because a thread pulled out at 2300 km. I think the 2010 800's and the 1000 both use the harder compound belt too, while mine uses the softer compound.
 

Kruchy

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Once you change the belt once it gets real easy. I leave the bolt in the secondary unthreaded and wiggle it until the cap comes off. I put the belt in between the primary and the belly and turn primary a quarter turn and your free. I also have problems with a new belt and the threads. I even broke the damn thing in, maybe thats the problem.
 
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