Bearing buddy install

duck

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Well, thought I would post a few pictures of the bearing buddy install on the 800R I just finished. My sled has 4800 km's on it. The bearing maintenance is something that should be looked at every year on the rotax 800R, mountain sleds ridden hard even more..... This little item will allow a person to inject isoflex grease into the pto bearing cavity without removal of the clutch, retainer and seal. Its a very easy deal and takes about an hour. First off, you can get the bearing buddy kit here...
I'm not affiliated with them, just where I got it.
So, first thing to do is to remove the primary clutch after removing belt.... Do this by placing sled on its side and use the water trick method (hydraulic). Teflon tape the threads on a puller or clutch bolt and fill hole in primary with water. Screw the bolt or puller into the clutch and start to tighten, the clutch will pop off very easily before the puller bottoms out and you will not break the puller as I have seen before. Once the clutch is off, remove the 4 torx bolts on the retainer but first with the torx in the head of the bolts tap each one to break the loctite seal, remove the 4 bolts...

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now remove the seal retainer and the seal can be removed by prying on the edge of the seal with a sharpened flat blade screwdriver, it will pop right out....

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you will see the crystal like iso-flex grease...

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so, now is a good time to add a bit more iso-flex grease and smooth it out by pushing it into the bearing;

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the bearing buddy comes with a grease gun and a tube of iso-flex grease as well, I ordered the mag buddy too and the special included another tube of grease and a grease gun. The tubes of grease are also available from ski-doo and cost $75 for each tube.
Next, install bearing buddy unit and 4 screws with blue loctite on each one.

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snug the bolts and route the grease line.

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Fill the supplied grease gun with iso-flex and fill the line and once full, pump about 6-8 times into the bearing buddy. The bearing buddy has a built in check valve so you cannot overpressure the cavity.
Re-install the primary and torque the bolt to 89-92 ft.lbs and your done. Now, filling the bearing with iso flex is simple and pain free.....

cheers
 
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Dooitorbust

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Slick set up. How often should it be torn down and greased if you dont have one of these?
C&T Powersports is where I got all of my clutch tools as well. They make a nice kit. Just wish i would have bought their spring pullers at the same time
 

duck

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Slick set up. How often should it be torn down and greased if you dont have one of these?
C&T Powersports is where I got all of my clutch tools as well. They make a nice kit. Just wish i would have bought their spring pullers at the same time

You should check it every year after the first 2 years.....once the engine warranty is over, all bets are off. I have the mag side bearing greaser as well, its next.
Yes, I have all the pullers for the QRS and TRA...good stuff.
 

shoppingcart111

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Mine is low miles but two years old and no more warranty, mine is also completely apart right now for a bunch of mods so I was wondering if I should pull the plate and have a look while im there. Question is can i pull the plate a seal without damaging anything and add grease if needed, how do I determine if I need or should change it? Have no seapage past the seal right now.
 

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Ya u can sc111,,just use a flat head screwdriver and pry it off super easy..
 

AreWeThereYet

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So where does the grease go that you put in there, does the excess go into the engine or is there another seal on the inside?
 

Caper11

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So where does the grease go that you put in there, does the excess go into the engine or is there another seal on the inside?

Excellent point, in my experiance too much grease in a brg can be a bad thing. Usually makes them run hotter if there over greased.


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duck

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Excellent point, in my experiance too much grease in a brg can be a bad thing. Usually makes them run hotter if there over greased.


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Ya don't want it running out of grease.....next is seal, once it gets hot....then engine go boom.....blue crank
 

Caper11

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Ya don't want it running out of grease.....next is seal, once it gets hot....then engine go boom.....blue crank

I haven't heard of a 800r running out of grease before.


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duck

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I haven't heard of a 800r running out of grease before.


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Holy crap!, where ya been? LOL....Its the number one killer of the 800R.....seal gets hot from hot clutch's, mountain riding, seal wears....grease eventually leaks into engine as it liquifies during operation....crank end gets hot, turns blue, POW!!!!crank runout goes crazy..... happened on my 2008 summit with 4000km's......before I totally understood the issue.....but I doo now.....just trying to help.....keep an eye on the pto side bearing.
The issue is not as widespread on short track sleds....more occurance on long track sleds working the engine alot more.
 

Caper11

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Holy crap!, where ya been? LOL....Its the number one killer of the 800R.....seal gets hot from hot clutch's, mountain riding, seal wears....grease eventually leaks into engine as it liquifies during operation....crank end gets hot, turns blue, POW!!!!crank runout goes crazy..... happened on my 2008 summit with 4000km's......before I totally understood the issue.....but I doo now.....just trying to help.....keep an eye on the pto side bearing.
The issue is not as widespread on short track sleds....more occurance on long track sleds working the engine alot more.

Thanks for the heads up, but Ive read that somewhere before.
I ve owned 5 800r's and I've never seen grease coming out the pto seal, but I've never put 4000km on a sled yet either or grenaded a belt that could damage the seal.
You mentioned 1 pump every xxx amount of miles. I should of said "if the seal is doing it job" yah shouldn't need to grease the bearing. Greasing a bearing that doesn't need it has negative effects, bearing runs hotter, and possibly damage the seal. All bearing buddies are a good idea if your careful using them.


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