2013 proclimb suspension set up

[ACP]

Just wondering if any of you have tried this guy's set up. Apex jeff on S west forum.
Any (smart) comments would be apreciated. I mostly like tree riding, but climb as well.

 

[Slamnek]

Please post the setup

 

[ACP]

I would love too, but suck on computers and by the the time i figured that out this skid would be antiquated

 

[hougie]

Please post the setup

This is a quote of apex jeff's set up..

Here is how we set them up. 2013 153 or 162, place front cross shaft in upper rearmost hole, tighten limiter strap all the way, leave center shock(front in rear skid) at factory setting, leave rear cross shaft in lower hole, adjust rear shock to 115 for riders under 180 and 135 for 200 and heavier, add 5# at a time if bottoming, now stand back and notice how much attack angle is reduced, also lift rear of sled till paddles just leave garage floor, rails should be parallel to floor, this is a very neutral starting point for deep snow, gets sled on top easier and quicker and way less chance of stabbing a window, down pressure is just right and makes front skis way less darty on the trail. Most riders we find like the front shocks at 65# give or take. This setup puts the skid and transfer very close to 2014 positioning.

 

[ACP]

Thanks for posting it hougie, Well I tried this set up over the weekend and hated it. To me it felt like it trenched more and the nose was heavy, as soon as you would let off the throtle in powder you felt like you were going over the bars. I sure hope the 14's are not similar.

 

[geotirsledder]

The setup Hougie suggests would be for trail riding to keep front end on ground. On my 2012 M1100T - let out the limiter strap as far as possible - this lightens the front end. Then for side hilling put less air in front shocks, this is really rider preference trial and error. The less air the less the skis will push you away from hill. Also get a set of powder pro skis - they have a deep keel and allow you to find the sweet spot while side hilling much easier. I haven't had much luck seeing big difference in rear setup. I have not tried really tightening up the front shock as some have suggested - that's next.

 

[0neoldfart]

I ran 60 psi in the front floats, 145 in the rear float, center track shock 1 1/2 turns tighter then stock, along with powder pro skis. Then I realized the factory valving sucks and ordered exits all the way around, and added an OVS wheelie coupler (2013 M1100T, rider weight fully dressed 240 lbs). If you are on a budget, get the shocks revalved by nextech or H2R suspension - I did that with my previous M chassis, and I found it was well worth it IMHO. But there is no substiute for custom valved coilover shocks...

 

[croweman]

Just wondering if any of you have tried this guy's set up. Apex jeff on S west forum.
Any (smart) comments would be apreciated. I mostly like tree riding, but climb as well.

I did the set up on my 800 and found it not be as good a set up as how it came stock. I did however play with the pressures in my shocks and like that with the stock setup.. I will be changing suspension back later today, to stock holes.

 

[croweman]

I did the set up on my 800 and found it not be as good a set up as how it came stock. I did however play with the pressures in my shocks and like that with the stock setup.. I will be changing suspension back later today, to stock holes.

I did not change it back to stock and ran the set up from Apex Jeff again for another couple of rides and really it works pretty well. I can get up and go a bit easier and not trench as bad. I still do however need to fine tune the suspension pressures. I am running 65 in fronts and 150 in the back but I am going to tackle the centre shock now because on the trail in the whoops sections I bottom out sometimes. The front shocks may go up 5 and the rear down 5.