2012 Grizzly 700 needs more power

[somethingnuw]

Anyone do a clutch kit for their Grizzly? I find my stock grizz with 27's on their a little soft of the start. Whenever I hit a mud whole now I find I put her in Low before I go in.

Dealer has tried to talk me into a clutch kit and cam shaft which they said I would be doing wheelies of the get go???

Will this make my bike less relieable. I need it to be reliable as I often get out alone! I know stupid but what else can you do in Northern Alberta?

On another note, I freaking hate those 4 little screw retention clips that hold my cover down for my air filter... what a crappy system!

 

[dodgeguy]

Not sure who else would have good advise for you, but I know whoDEANie has 2 griz's 1 pretty heavily modded, and BIGDAWG had a griz that I believe was modded as well....try pming those gents!

 

[Wemac]

Doing some clutch work won't make it less reliable. You can go with a gold secondary spring and 18 gram weights along with a 1 or 1.5 mm shim to gain bottom end. With this set up you will lose on the top end. If you want to keep your top end as well I suggest going with a machined primary sheave as well as the tighter secondary spring mentioned.

 

[whoDEANie]

I got the airdam Stage 2 machining doen to my primary sheave and I'm finding it pretty awesome - lots of low end grunt and no top end loss. Supposedly, it has the equivelent low end gain to a 3mm shim. Now, I almost never switch into low before going into the mud or skeg. However if I do get stuck or bog down, I'll usually kick it into low just to make it easier on the we clutch.

I cleaned up my primary and Rapid Revolutions sent it to Airdam for $235. I'm just experimenting with clutch kits as well but have no real results yet. So far, I have a stiffer seconday spring and stiffer wet clutch springs and have skipped the rollers until I try this combination with the machined sheave. I can't wait to try this combo on my next ride - it should really launch off the start now. Honestly, I'm happy with the machined sheave alone, but I'm kinda wheelie challened and need to spend a little extra $$$ to offset my skill.

 

[Wemac]

There is another guy that does good clutch work look up JBS Hot Rod. He knows more about clutches than most. He can set you up with a machined sheave and whatever else you need. I run a machined sheave with a modded cam plate, 16 gram roller weights, and an orange secondary spring. It pulls hard and like WhoDeanie said I don't put mine in low before the mud holes now unless it looks real bad. Putting it in low is easier on the wet clutch though. I am changing my setup soon to run a Gold secondary spring with friction washers and a JBS sheave with overdrive 16 gram greaseless weights.

 

[grizzlymud]

You should always be using low, wet clutches aren't cheap. I don't think mines hardly been in high. What kind of 27's? Try shimming it, get a 1mm and 2 - .5mm shims. Some can take 2mm some only 1.5mm. If you like the low end and miss the lower top end send your sheave to get machined. Weights and secondary would need to know more about tires and where and how you drive.

 

[Wemac]

You should always be using low, wet clutches aren't cheap. I don't think mines hardly been in high. What kind of 27's? Try shimming it, get a 1mm and 2 - .5mm shims. Some can take 2mm some only 1.5mm. If you like the low end and miss the lower top end send your sheave to get machined. Weights and secondary would need to know more about tires and where and how you drive.

You are right low is the way to go when getting into the thicker stuff and mud holes. Last time I ordered a wet clutch it was $300 from PartShark.

 

[somethingnuw]

You should always be using low, wet clutches aren't cheap. I don't think mines hardly been in high. What kind of 27's? Try shimming it, get a 1mm and 2 - .5mm shims. Some can take 2mm some only 1.5mm. If you like the low end and miss the lower top end send your sheave to get machined. Weights and secondary would need to know more about tires and where and how you drive.

all good info... thanks everyone for your help. I have 27 inch interco reptile's they are a radial rated tire but I love them... on stock rims... love the bike.

Honestly never new about the wet clutch always being in low thing... sorry guys... new to this first quad ever... just sold a honda 450x this is my first quad. I have had lots of experience on older kodiak 450's and 400's and honestly i was worried... in high of the get go they feel the same? It was the dealer that indicated they all do the clutch and cam work. I am sorry to say I know nothing. Everyone up in High Prairie is either on a Can am or a honda... some kawi's... I did my research on the bike and I happy with it. I originally wanted a honda for reliability but I believe the 700 to be the same with all the xtra benefits... if any of you guys end up in my neck of the woods... PM me we can go for ride! Thanks again for the info... seems I have a lot more research to do!

My wife wants a 700 now too...

 

[BIG DAWG]

would definatly steer clear of high when entering the thick and deep as the wet clutch is a costly unneccassary repair the machined sheave is definatly the place to start central sled in wetaskwin hooked me up

 

[Wemac]

The wet clutch should last for a long time when treated properly.

 

[northern bear]

I just got myself a new JBS HotRod sheave. Purple secondary and 16g greaseless overdrive weights. Haven't installed yet so can't say how good it is. And probably won't till the snow goes. For $362 shipped u get a brand new machines sheave that gives you the lowest possible starting ratio, the spring and weights. Anti friction washes have been added to the kit now to go in with the secondary spring, as well as the recommendation to lightly grease the weights even though they are greaseless.

Currently I got an EPI kit that consists of stall springs, 14g & 16g weights and an orange secondary. Tried a 1.5mm shim. Was good, could pull wheelies on the go up to 20kph in high, but didn't like the loss in top end speed. As far as reliability goes, it's not going to effect much. Just make sure all the parts are installed correctly and all bolts/nuts tightened or torqued properly.

 

[four4all]

I've done most everything to my Grizz. If your looking for a wheel king - buy a Outlander or a Rene. 1 Cylinder is just not enough.
But since you've got a grizz already - my suggestion is to get the Air Damn clutch mod. I think that's the biggest bang for your buck.
Either way - the grizzly has been pretty reliable for me.

Just my opinion - drive that Grizz in Low unless you hit a road or a really fast trail.
I forget exactly, but I thought I'm good up to about 40km in low before I need to run in High gear. (I've changed my clutching so much that I forget the actual speed though)

High gear on a grizzly and any mud holes just don't mix.

good luck

 

[Wemac]

You can also delete that wet clutch but then your reliability will be affected.

 

[scoobienorth]

Buddy of mine has a grizzly, and it makes power, but the chassis doesn't like it. It will try to throw you off right steady. First up to make power the cam has to be changed. He has a stage one raptor hotcam, now the rev limiter kicks in before your on the power so you need a way of raising your limiter 8000-8500rpm. Next up the airbox won't flow enough. He cut a large hole in his, like big enough to stick both hands through, then cut some holes in the metal screen that holds the filter up. If you don't tackle the airbox don't even start trying to make power. its seriously corked up. He added a slip on and a basic fuel tuner, but a full system would be better. His Griz really went well though. Easily in 800 outty land for power with the slip on. Since he has added a 12:1 piston and premium fuel. Lots of snap in it. The starter however will barely turn it over now. I'd try 11.5:1 if it were me.

 

[scoobienorth]

I really like the power the single makes. It's got a snap as soon as you get after it the twins just don't have. It's fun to ride. Mod for mod it's hard to beat a can am, or in hp wars but if ya got a Griz they are decent and can go pretty good.

dam iphone i can't seem to copy the video link from YouTube. Search for grizzly vs outlander 800 it'll come up at or near the top. User name is cheapshot27 I believe. That video was done before the piston and the airbox was only partially opened I believe. It now needs clutching IMO. A machined sheave would help him lots

Edit* his user name on YouTube is cheapshot27 and he has lots of videos on it of him racing different things. It's not the fastest quad ever but considering he is 375 pounds it does alright and if you have a grizzly and got on his you would be surprised

 

[BIG DAWG]

yes WHEN TREATED PROPERLY

 

[grizzlymud]

The wet clutch should last for a long time when treated properly.

Or until you put some power to it, mine wouldn't hold after my mods, so went to WCD but it hasn't held up either. I'm on my 4th try with the WCD and figure we have it done correctly now, I was one of the first ones with one and has seen a lot of changes and upgrades. But like said mines not stock. And she keeps up with the Hams

 

[grizzlymud]

Buddy of mine has a grizzly, and it makes power, but the chassis doesn't like it. It will try to throw you off right steady. First up to make power the cam has to be changed. He has a stage one raptor hotcam, now the rev limiter kicks in before your on the power so you need a way of raising your limiter 8000-8500rpm. Next up the airbox won't flow enough. He cut a large hole in his, like big enough to stick both hands through, then cut some holes in the metal screen that holds the filter up. If you don't tackle the airbox don't even start trying to make power. its seriously corked up. He added a slip on and a basic fuel tuner, but a full system would be better. His Griz really went well though. Easily in 800 outty land for power with the slip on. Since he has added a 12:1 piston and premium fuel. Lots of snap in it. The starter however will barely turn it over now. I'd try 11.5:1 if it were me.

Yes you defiantly need to do intake and exhaust mods, then clutch it for the new power and rpm range, mine is still low on rpm. Sucks with not having a factory tach on the Grizzly and most aftermarket ones aren't that accurate. I have a LCD display coming for my PCV that plugs right in and will give accurate rpm signal. Any questions let me know. Have been modding since 07 lol

 

[Cheapshot]

I'm the buddy Scoobie is talking about. I bought my Grizzly new in 07, its Green w/ Powersteering. I will say this right now though, I'm not really a mud bogger, I've always had 25" ITP Holeshot ATRs on it. My time on other Yammy forums, the hot ticket seems to be the machined sheaves. There are lots of guys around that do it, some rhino guys, some grizzly guys. Just about all of them have a back stock now so you sometimes don't have to wait for yours to be finished.

My mods are as follows done in the following order

Stage 1 Raptor Hot cam. As Scoobie said, It actually was a step backwards because the stock 6800 RPM limiter would keep the engine out of the meat and potatoes of the slightly higher power band.

Next was the Dynatek CDI box, HMF Slip on and Fuel controller, with the gutted airbox. This was when the quad really started to come into its own. I've never lost to a Brute Force on level ground in a drag race, call BS if you want I don't really care. I could run door to door with 800 Outtys with 200lb riders and stock rubber all afternoon. With me sitting on it, If I get after it, especially in low range and lean back a little wheelies are a non-issue. The airbox thing is kind of reversible too. If I knew I was going mudding or puddle jumping I just throw duck tape on it, I've always basically had the fuel controller set at the lowest or 2nd lowest fuel settings on everything but idle so I didn't usually have to add any fuel. In my opinion it didn't make a huge huge difference when I taped up the box.

My suspicion is that regardless of the cam, the intake, exhaust, fuel controller, CDI combo would yield significant results.

After all of that I added a 12:1 CP Piston, and its pretty wicked, piles of power, right out of the basement. I always joke the quad has a personality and it doesn't like people, especially me. It starts a lot better now that I replaced the battery too.

Right now the limitation for me is definitely the clutching. If I could get a machined sheave that behaved similar to how Scoobie's Rhino used to behave I'd have a real rocket on my hands. Right now I notice on long hill climbs it tries to up-shift too much so it falls a little short, not really a huge issue but it could be improved upon.

 

[whoDEANie]

Or until you put some power to it, mine wouldn't hold after my mods, so went to WCD but it hasn't held up either. I'm on my 4th try with the WCD and figure we have it done correctly now, I was one of the first ones with one and has seen a lot of changes and upgrades. But like said mines not stock. And she keeps up with the Hams

I ride a heck of a lot of mud in high gear and my wet clutch is like brand new after about 3600km. I just make sure if the wheels stop spinning in the mud, I switch into low before tryig to get going again. ...then again, I still have pretty close to stock HP.