2003Summit
Active VIP Member
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Edited Dec/07- Please note: My interpretation of these stupid a** tank mount instructions were wrong. The tank is in fact supposed to be tight to the seat. Check out sleeper700’s install in https://www.snowandmud.com/forum/f123/fuel-caddys-3158.html and read the comments in both posts before you mount. Overkill19 bought the tunnel bag and the bag instructions show the bag between the tank and the tail light. Several of us are putting BRP’s tank mount instructions up for “worst instructions of the year award” or possibly worst ever. A lot of confusion over this one.
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I remembered someone else asking about how to install the new fuel caddy on the 2008 XP and now that I have installed mine, I can see why.
I spent about 45 minutes trying to interpret the instructions and about 10 minutes really mounting the tank. This post might seam long, but I promise you reading this is quicker.
Following the instructions that come with the tank is like trying to do really hard math. You will get so frustrated you will be tempted to wing it like I did and end up having to re-drill. 
The problem is, if the brackets are not all located just right, the tank will not fit into the mounts correctly (ie. not fit worth cr@p).
I thought I would save the next guy some trouble and try to simplify things a bit. As long as your tank is molded about the same as mine this should work. So here goes. These are for the 2008 Summit XP X, mine is 154", but I don’t think that will matter.
Refer to pics at
and to the instructions included w/tank for clarification (or serous confusion) and exact measurements.
1. Position the tank supports: I simply positioned them at the rear of the tunnel as shown in my pic, I spaced them 1/8" away from the rear plastic tail light holder, and parallel to the heat sink extrusion, no more than 1/8" between the support and were the h.s. extrusion ramps up. If you put them too far out, the caddy won't sit down into the supports, too close and it will slide around. Notice there is a little notch on the bottom side of the support at the front, meant to fit over the flat part of the aluminum extrusion of the heat sink, you need to position the support *closer* to the extrusion than what the notch suggests, some of plastic by the notch will get a bit crushed by the aluminum, don't worry about it. When I did this I found the holes ended up about as per instructions, about 61mm and 71mm from edge of tunnel (I think).
2. Drilling and bolting the supports: Hold the support on the tunnel as above, drill the fore (front) hole first (1/4" bit), put the bolt up from the bottom, washer and nut on top, there is a bit of play to move it around, get it so the spacing between the support and the HS is about 1/8" or less. I would drill only the front holes on both the left and right first, tighten the bolts and test the tank for fit. Tighten the bolts before fit test as the mount will rock over when tight, changing the fit. Make *sure* the tank seats all the way down with ease (check all four corners of the tank for seating). If all is good, adjust the rear of the mount so that it looks strait (lined up) with the heat sink and drill the rear holes and bolt em tight.
3. Locate the clamps brackets: Boy those locate marks are hard to find under the decal there. And the instructions don't help much (other than they say draw a line and mark up the sled and oh by the way make sure you use the other marks now that you have drawn the line cause there are a bunch of them). One of my pics has the locate marks highlighted in magenta. They look like slight circular impressions under the decal, about 1/8” in diameter, ½” down from the top of the decal, all of this is on the side of the tunnel of course. The instructions say locate the bracket 2mm aft of the center locate mark, I just lined the front edge of the bracket up with the center locate mark. As the instructions say, position the bracket so the rivet holes are to the inside and the slot is slopped down to the back. I put the tank on and set the bracket far enough out so I could hook up the strap with ease but not so far as they would be hooking my boots and clothes if I end up sliding off the back of my sled in some type of un-natural event (involving a steep hill, possibly a tree well and maybe even a tree). I laid a carpenters pencil on the tunnel to help me line up the bracket, putting the outside edge of the bracket ¾” from the edge of the tunnel (ie so pencil was ¼” from edge of tunnel). I think the holes ended up about 1-1/4” or so from the edge of the tunnel. The instructions said closer to the edge, but this is where I liked them.
4. Drill and mount the brackets: Locate as above, drill front hole first (3/16”), pop the front rivet in (use the smaller aluminum colored ones, *NOT* the larger black painted ones even though they match better). Put a strait edge on the bracket to help line it up with the sled (I used a carpenters pencil). Drill the back hole and pop the rivet.
5. set the tank in, place the retainer strap and cups on. The clips go from inside out. Turn the front clasps at 45 degrees so the strap fits nice. You must make the strap lay flat all the way around the tank (except where it goes through the front part of the other strap). If it has a few twists and flops in it, it will not be long enough to do up and you will blame me somehow for sure now that you have drilled your tunnel.
6. All should be good. Go drink beer and see if you can figure out what the instructions that came with the tank are trying to say and why.
PS: Oh, by the way, what does every one think of the new high-tech-patent-pending-clamp-system on the new rev XP. Pretty darn fancy eh? Waaaaay better way to collect some extra revenue than the Rev's tie down bracket. And, it's do it your self! Man I am pleased.
Edited Dec/07- Please note: My interpretation of these stupid a** tank mount instructions were wrong. The tank is in fact supposed to be tight to the seat. Check out sleeper700’s install in https://www.snowandmud.com/forum/f123/fuel-caddys-3158.html and read the comments in both posts before you mount. Overkill19 bought the tunnel bag and the bag instructions show the bag between the tank and the tail light. Several of us are putting BRP’s tank mount instructions up for “worst instructions of the year award” or possibly worst ever. A lot of confusion over this one.
===============================================
I remembered someone else asking about how to install the new fuel caddy on the 2008 XP and now that I have installed mine, I can see why.
I spent about 45 minutes trying to interpret the instructions and about 10 minutes really mounting the tank. This post might seam long, but I promise you reading this is quicker.Following the instructions that come with the tank is like trying to do really hard math.
You will get so frustrated you will be tempted to wing it like I did and end up having to re-drill. The problem is, if the brackets are not all located just right, the tank will not fit into the mounts correctly (ie. not fit worth cr@p).I thought I would save the next guy some trouble and try to simplify things a bit. As long as your tank is molded about the same as mine this should work. So here goes. These are for the 2008 Summit XP X, mine is 154", but I don’t think that will matter.
Refer to pics at
and to the instructions included w/tank for clarification (or serous confusion) and exact measurements.
1. Position the tank supports: I simply positioned them at the rear of the tunnel as shown in my pic, I spaced them 1/8" away from the rear plastic tail light holder, and parallel to the heat sink extrusion, no more than 1/8" between the support and were the h.s. extrusion ramps up. If you put them too far out, the caddy won't sit down into the supports, too close and it will slide around. Notice there is a little notch on the bottom side of the support at the front, meant to fit over the flat part of the aluminum extrusion of the heat sink, you need to position the support *closer* to the extrusion than what the notch suggests, some of plastic by the notch will get a bit crushed by the aluminum, don't worry about it. When I did this I found the holes ended up about as per instructions, about 61mm and 71mm from edge of tunnel (I think
). 2. Drilling and bolting the supports: Hold the support on the tunnel as above, drill the fore (front) hole first (1/4" bit), put the bolt up from the bottom, washer and nut on top, there is a bit of play to move it around, get it so the spacing between the support and the HS is about 1/8" or less. I would drill only the front holes on both the left and right first, tighten the bolts and test the tank for fit. Tighten the bolts before fit test as the mount will rock over when tight, changing the fit. Make *sure* the tank seats all the way down with ease (check all four corners of the tank for seating). If all is good, adjust the rear of the mount so that it looks strait (lined up) with the heat sink and drill the rear holes and bolt em tight.
3. Locate the clamps brackets: Boy those locate marks are hard to find under the decal there. And the instructions don't help much (other than they say draw a line and mark up the sled and oh by the way make sure you use the other marks now that you have drawn the line cause there are a bunch of them). One of my pics has the locate marks highlighted in magenta. They look like slight circular impressions under the decal, about 1/8” in diameter, ½” down from the top of the decal, all of this is on the side of the tunnel of course. The instructions say locate the bracket 2mm aft of the center locate mark, I just lined the front edge of the bracket up with the center locate mark. As the instructions say, position the bracket so the rivet holes are to the inside and the slot is slopped down to the back. I put the tank on and set the bracket far enough out so I could hook up the strap with ease but not so far as they would be hooking my boots and clothes if I end up sliding off the back of my sled in some type of un-natural event (involving a steep hill, possibly a tree well and maybe even a tree). I laid a carpenters pencil on the tunnel to help me line up the bracket, putting the outside edge of the bracket ¾” from the edge of the tunnel (ie so pencil was ¼” from edge of tunnel). I think the holes ended up about 1-1/4” or so from the edge of the tunnel. The instructions said closer to the edge, but this is where I liked them.
4. Drill and mount the brackets: Locate as above, drill front hole first (3/16”), pop the front rivet in (use the smaller aluminum colored ones, *NOT* the larger black painted ones even though they match better). Put a strait edge on the bracket to help line it up with the sled (I used a carpenters pencil). Drill the back hole and pop the rivet.
5. set the tank in, place the retainer strap and cups on. The clips go from inside out. Turn the front clasps at 45 degrees so the strap fits nice. You must make the strap lay flat all the way around the tank (except where it goes through the front part of the other strap). If it has a few twists and flops in it, it will not be long enough to do up and you will blame me somehow for sure now that you have drilled your tunnel.
6. All should be good. Go drink beer and see if you can figure out what the instructions that came with the tank are trying to say and why.
PS: Oh, by the way, what does every one think of the new high-tech-patent-pending-clamp-system on the new rev XP. Pretty darn fancy eh? Waaaaay better way to collect some extra revenue than the Rev's tie down bracket. And, it's do it your self! Man I am pleased.
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