13 pro not back shifting

96sherm

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any updates from anyone? Last night I unplugged the exhaust valve hoses from the solenoid and plugged them so it works "old school" on exhaust pressure and not by solenoid. It ran awesome. I'm still looking for a few hundred more RPM as per RKTek specs on the motor after rebuilding using his parts, but otherwise it ran best that it ever has. I have it at the shop right now, they're scanning for codes and going to check/reset the TPS.
 

snobyrd

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bingo, I think ur on to somthing, I talked to Kelsey today about this, and that's exactly wat we came up with to try, funny thing is though, Kelsey says he's never has other coustmers with this lack of power issue, and I'm the only one, we need to call him out on this, anyway my sled was at the shop Friday and a code came up for sylinoid power valve failure, and that makes sence to me, I also was blaming the coolant tempts as well
 

96sherm

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Results from the shop was the ecu had two old codes stored, an exhaust temp fault and throttle stuck fault (using the tech comments wording here). Also the TPS was out of spec and throttle cable wasn't at the proper tension. I'm going to try going for a rip this evening in our minimalist snow conditions.

Snobyrd, you mentioned coolant temps. Does yours seem to run hotter than stock? Mine used to run around 120-125F, now its running 132-138 consistantly and spikes above 140 if I'm having to trail it much on a warmer day. I find this odd as many of Kelsy's testimonials say that the sleds run much cooler than stock once his head has been installed...
 

snobyrd

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my temps are also in the low 140s, I chatted to a very knowledgable tuner last nite and wat he said was, my throttle cable needs to be tighter, he said start engine and add tension to the cable untill the rs pickup than back the adjuster 1 turn, how he knew my cable was out was on my boondocker box my WOT electrical reading was 228 , he said that was to low, it should be around 238, so that would mean my cable is slack and not getting full WOT.
for me also I got a 13.5 head and he said that's to high for down here, and that could also cause high coolant temps.
he also said keep the Exaust valves hooked up , he said Exaust valve failure would cause rs of no higher than 7000 so that isn't my case, also it appears on my DI kit I need to add lots of fuel and more weight to make this engine work.
i also had to sync my boonie box with my throttle so the rpms line up with the tps
 

Beels

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my temps are also in the low 140s, I chatted to a very knowledgable tuner last nite and wat he said was, my throttle cable needs to be tighter, he said start engine and add tension to the cable untill the rs pickup than back the adjuster 1 turn, how he knew my cable was out was on my boondocker box my WOT electrical reading was 228 , he said that was to low, it should be around 238, so that would mean my cable is slack and not getting full WOT.
for me also I got a 13.5 head and he said that's to high for down here, and that could also cause high coolant temps.
he also said keep the Exaust valves hooked up , he said Exaust valve failure would cause rs of no higher than 7000 so that isn't my case, also it appears on my DI kit I need to add lots of fuel and more weight to make this engine work.
i also had to sync my boonie box with my throttle so the rpms line up with the tps

One thing to remember about dealing with outfits like RKT, is they ride way higher elevation in the US than we do in most areas in Canada. Kelsey rides a bunch in Western Wyoming and they unload at 6K and go up. Just thought I'd mention that when I saw you were running a 13.5:1 head snobyrd.
 

96sherm

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I have the 13:1 head. My temps don't change from Sask (1600') riding to BC riding (5000-8000'). i also run 50/50 Av gas (100LL) and premium. I was wondering if RKTek's placement of the temp probe is causing the temp to read differently. Polaris has it in the center of the head, RKTek is in the center of one cylinder/piston. Guess I should call him up and see if I can get some education.

We're heading to BC this weekend...will see how it runs...
 

Jesse_01

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McBride fuel sucks, I have had issue with it in the past. I always bring Jerry cans from pg when I go riding.
 
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snobyrd

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there's a thread on sw about a 28$ fix, it's usin a sealed inline brp stat housing, part # 509000499, it's like 40$ or so, stojens in gp got a few in stock, so I've got one and gonna do the install tonite, apparently it will keep the coolant at 100-110*, I was told today that power starts to fall of at 130, so this could be the culprit for all of our so called back shifting problems, pol has got so many safeguards on this engine, so this might be a loophole around a safe guard they have in place, as reguards to wat rktech cheerleaders hav to say about coolant temps, I'm learning to take it with a grain of salt, the 13s are different from the 12s, even the bb coustmers r complaining about back shifting issues and it's quite possible that makin more power Is creating higher coolant temps and deratting the motor. I'm gonna ride mine for a few days with the stat mod and I'll post my findings.
 

Jesse_01

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So you would remove your current t stat and install this doo in line one? Hmm interesting.
 

tavis43

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Found the last coil on my spring broken, bit dumb I did not see it before. It was wired, it was a fresh break no rust. And I threw in a set of 62's. try it all out tomorrow
 

snobyrd

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I did the doo t stat mod and wow, it's runnin between 115-120* now and it's holding rs and I've even installed 64 weights and got great top end power, I saw between 47-50 mph on long steep deep wind loaded climbs yesterday.
 

Jesse_01

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I did the doo t stat mod and wow, it's runnin between 115-120* now and it's holding rs and I've even installed 64 weights and got great top end power, I saw between 47-50 mph on long steep deep wind loaded climbs yesterday.

How do you do the doo t stat mod? Do you remove the factory one and put in the in line one?
 

tavis43

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Put in a slp green pink spring and polaris 62's and mine seams to work better
 

96sherm

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Snobyrd...What did you use for a thermostat housing gasket after you removed the thermostat? I'm going to do this mod pretty quick...as well as new EV solenoid. I'm suspecting that my injectors are fritzing also, seems that most guys with '11's have already replaced blue injectors with Yellow ones. Sled ran very well this past week/weekend, but I'm still getting some intermittant "bogging" issues. Temps seem to be 132-140 in snow, as high as 150 on a light snow trail with scratchers down...
 
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