Can Am outlander 1000 Primary Clutch help

[tschwark]

I have a 2012 outlander 1000 xt with 27" silverbacks and I'm looking to put a new primary and possibly a secondary clutch on but am not sure what to go with. I love riding in mud but also do lots of trail and road running and would like more bottom end while keeping as much top end as possible. I'm looking into Cvtech, QSC, and Airdam but need to do more research. Any advise or comments would be greatly appreciated.

 

[gordhunt]

Talk to the guys at Get Torqued in Edmonton

Sent from my Note2

 

[MiledOut]

airdam or cvtech is the same clutch but would recommend this.

 

[KWIK RACING INC.]

airdam or cvtech is the same clutch but would recommend this.

well..not actactly.. cv tech is a company out of Quebec Canada... Adam ( Airdam buys them and put a surface prep on the sheeves ) and resells them.. same price you kinda pay but Adam is hard to get a hold of and is super busy all the time... talk to Yves at get torqed.. they are the ones that can sell either, or and explain a lot more in less time then me typing a book..lol

cv is what i run and it works A1 for me.. there are qsc with great results too.. there is another clutch called STM but you have no engine braking but the clutch is pretty! lol all billet machined but you really have to know how to tune a stm or qsc.. they both are more tunable than cv but the cv is easy and is proven to work even on high hp bikes... renegades making 200 + rwhp...

 

[DaveB]

QSC primary and STM secondary. Guys have good results with Airdum clutches, but if you make any changes, you need to re-clutch and the Airdum/CV Tech isn't as easy to do yourself. The QSC primary comes with adjustable weights and whether you get it from QSC or through GetTorged, they will be able to give you a baseline setup that will be real close. Minor adjustments for personal preference and when mods are done at a later time are easy to do.

Oh...and none of the aftermarket primaries (QSC, Airdum/CV, or STM) has engine braking. The first two have a one-way bearing like the stocker so that when you are sitting at idle, there is no drag. The STM is more like a sled clutch that has some drag at idle. None have a engine braking mechanism....the stocker has an actual mechanism that pushes the sheaves closed a bit when the one way bearing is pushed (EI: the secondary is trying to turn faster than the primary....going downhill).

 

[tschwark]

I wasn't aware of losing the engine braking. Do you notice it being a problem because i do climb a fair bit of hills to.

 

[DaveB]

Not an issue. You have engine braking...it's just like a sled though: you have to blip the gas now and then to keep the primary engaged.

 

[KWIK RACING INC.]

well i have certainly way more engine braking on my cv tech then i had on my STM.. the stm was 0.. you had to blip the trottle all the time.. not with my cv.. if i keep my revs up it will engine brake without blipping the trottle.. but you still have to blip the trottle if your rpm dont hold the clutch...

but yes your right.. all aftermarket certainly dont brake like the stocker...

 

[Pink-Inc]

Reviving an old thread. Currently running a '12 Outty 1000xt. Have 29.5 outlaws and a QSC primary. Would the STM secondary help it backshift a bit better in the mud? Any recommended spring and helix combos with this set up? Mostly mud ride

 

[KWIK RACING INC.]

yes it would... backshifting and up shifting......and tuning of the stm is super simple....rules of thumb.... going lower in a helix number makes the secondary resist shift more.... in other works if you need to add rpm ,, that is a way to do it.... also the stiffer the spring the more resistance for the secondary to shift out... slows the clutch down in other words.....

now you can do that with the primary too.. going to a higher finish rate on the primary clutch spring slows the clutch down so now to get your shiftout back with heavier weights...the starting rate of the spring generally sets your stall speed but the stall rpm can be higher or lower by other tuning of either clutch....

altitude chances your clutch performance big time... but for trail riding it does nt matter... but for optimum tuning and power transfer to the ground when your say drag racing or just want to be quicker then your buddy.. tuning of clutches is needed.... on avg you loose 100 rpm for every 1000 ft you go up in altitude... 100 rpm is crucial when talking shiftout at peak hp/tq rpm