2014 m8000 won't pull rpm, inconsistent

RollnThndr

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The guys having issues, do you have any mods? Engine, exhaust, clutching, etc or is it completely stock? Which ecu do you have, circle, square or triangle?
 
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catman1

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Silly question, where are the smart valves on my m8000 and what do they do?
 

catman1

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Is it possible to change them Around on the trail with out spilling a bunch of fuel ?
 

Motomonks

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nobody has replied to this thread in about a year.

my sled (14 snow checked m8000 son pro 162) is doing the same, last two trips out sled runs flawless for the first 2 days of trip then on third day back to crap, runs fine then all of a sudden it runs at like 6-7000rpm and sounds terrible, stopped for a while and symptoms went away until a harsh landing from a jump, then off and on for the rest of the day and even periodically down the trail.

sled is stock other than a bikeman can and vent kit. anybody else still having this issue? i have noticed a fair bit of injection oil in the intake. dealer says they haven't heard of this and unless it happens to them when i bring it in it will be a waste of time and time won't be covered under warranty. I'm hoping there is a fix to this, quite the piss off when you spend 15k$ + on a new mountain sled that doesn't perform...
 

six buck

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Found a problem on a 2015 8000 belonging to my son. Look down underneath your y pipe and find the throttle body/oil pump linkage. Move the throttle flipper while looking down there. A small light and mirror or an inspection cam helps. Found on his that oil pump was getting hung up, not returning with throttle. I was staying half way open in a nice warm shop. Only way it would close was to open throttle wide open and let it snap back into place. That little flimsy watch spring is not woumd tight enough to do anything. We put a tiny o ring over the two pegs and a dab of high temp silicone to keep it in place. Now the oil pump closes back to its idle position every time. No more garbles, gurgles, bogs, choking plumes of smoke in sled trailer. Condition worsens if you are out in the cold lots. Oil bog.
 

six buck

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Also check your fuel to oil ratio. Likely way rich due to new warranties and it is easily adjusted retaining all the stock equip.
 

glengine

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Check ground wire that is bolted to chasis just in front of chaincase. Also check to make sure all coils are tight and no wires pinched. From you are describing I would say it is an electrical issue. I also di-electric grease all my electrical connections just to make sure no moisture gets in them. Ive had all brands od sleds give all sorts of weird symptoms when get moisture in a connection.
 

2010m8

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Check ground wire that is bolted to chasis just in front of chaincase. Also check to make sure all coils are tight and no wires pinched. From you are describing I would say it is an electrical issue. I also di-electric grease all my electrical connections just to make sure no moisture gets in them. Ive had all brands od sleds give all sorts of weird symptoms when get moisture in a connection.

Would this cause similar issues with the 1100? Mine is pulling 7500-7600 but last time was out was able to get 7900-8000.
 

Shredder

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Found a problem on a 2015 8000 belonging to my son. Look down underneath your y pipe and find the throttle body/oil pump linkage. Move the throttle flipper while looking down there. A small light and mirror or an inspection cam helps. Found on his that oil pump was getting hung up, not returning with throttle. I was staying half way open in a nice warm shop. Only way it would close was to open throttle wide open and let it snap back into place. That little flimsy watch spring is not woumd tight enough to do anything. We put a tiny o ring over the two pegs and a dab of high temp silicone to keep it in place. Now the oil pump closes back to its idle position every time. No more garbles, gurgles, bogs, choking plumes of smoke in sled trailer. Condition worsens if you are out in the cold lots. Oil bog.

Almost guarantee this is your issue. If that little return spring gets dirty at all it will not pull the linkage back at idle (not even close). You will be loading that engine up with oil anytime you are not really getting into the throttle; such as crawling along a tight trail thru the trees... etc. I just check it and give the spring and linkage a spray of Power Lube to keep it clean and freed up after every trip.
 

six buck

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I strongly recommend putting the o ring over the two little pegs. The sled we fixed like this had about 150 miles on it and everything was shinny clean. Its a major pain to get in there with lube etc. That's why we used the oring. Do it once and no worries.
 

COLBEE

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I had a 2009 m1000 that did this, ended up being the packing inside of my can was coming apart and blocking off the exhaust outlet in the can every once in a while. It was a d&d barker can... something quick to check anyway.
 

ailll1

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Almost guarantee this is your issue. If that little return spring gets dirty at all it will not pull the linkage back at idle (not even close). You will be loading that engine up with oil anytime you are not really getting into the throttle; such as crawling along a tight trail thru the trees... etc. I just check it and give the spring and linkage a spray of Power Lube to keep it clean and freed up after every trip.

What part do I need to check? From what I can see, the linkage on the pump is connected to the throttle linkage with a rigid rod. How can can the pump not return completly? What am I missing?
 
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