XM issues, dealer can't figure it out. help from the internet gurus ?

SidewaysInto3rd

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Hey guys
Little background... 2400km on the sled, engine and exhaust completely stock.

Took apart the primary at about 1800k, new sliders, cleaned and inspected, everything was ok.

Started having issues on long pulls (setup snow) where the RPMs would slowly drop from 7900 to as low as 6000 and engine would burp and fart. The issue would go away if I let it sit and cool off a little. My belt still looks new (second belt) and my clutches don't get super hot when climbing.


The bigger problem happened when trying to sled ski with my gf. was going up a groomed cat track where engine lost all power and died. No check engine light or anything. Let it sit for 30 minutes or so then it would run for a little bit and then die again. rinse and repeat till we got back to the truck.

I made a little video for the dealer on my way out and at first thought it was the coils cutting out. They've had a look at it now and say it's not the coils and they aren't sure what the problem is. They will continue to look at it but I wanted to ask you guys as well. 65 cm of pow pow coming down on the coast by the weekend and I want this thing fixed ASAP !


Anyways, more commentary in the video. Let me know what you think. Thanks


XM issues - YouTube
 

ferniesnow

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The only thing I have heard of here and on DooTalk has been a few problems with the exhaust sensors. Some have had to shim them out a little to get the "plunger" out a few mm's. I don't know if that would be related and I don't know if that would be the right thing to doo. I just ride mine and let the technician look after the problems of which I have had none in 2700+ km.
 

SidewaysInto3rd

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dealer did their tests.. replaced one coil that looked suspect. They don't know for sure

They said they tested the stator and coils and replaced the one coil

Told me to go for a test ride on the trail with a buddy in case I need a tow back. which I think is a little bit BS. So tomorrow I'm gonna head out for a trail ride, and since all my buddy's have packed it in I gonna have to take my skis so I can get back to the truck if it shits the bed and dies.

Needless to say, I'm Not happy with this situation.
 

snopro

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Someone get Gerry Holte from Martins to look at this video. If anyone can figure it out it will be him. I wonder what the plugs would look like right after that video? That will tell you a lot. Are they wet or dry?
 

SidewaysInto3rd

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Someone get Gerry Holte from Martins to look at this video. If anyone can figure it out it will be him. I wonder what the plugs would look like right after that video? That will tell you a lot. Are they wet or dry?

I don't think my dealer pulled my plugs .. I don't know the indexing procedure so I don't want to pull them out myself.

wish I had a service manual. think i'll probably buy one after this ordeal.
 

snopro

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I don't think my dealer pulled my plugs .. I don't know the indexing procedure so I don't want to pull them out myself.

wish I had a service manual. think i'll probably buy one after this ordeal.

If he didn't then you need a new dealer. We have seen plug failures before on the ETEC's. If you have an injector issue the plug may be dry. If it is wet it may be a plug or bad coil. I know of 2 coils that have failed this year on mileage similar to yours. A lot of this stuff can be checked on BUDS. I am personally leaning towards coil issues. If it is intermittant then they have done the proper thing to replace the one in question.
 

snopro

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Alot of people are concerned with the indexing procedure with the new plugs. BRP has washered the plug so it starts on the threads in the same place everytime when you reinstall a plug. They should index properly everytime is what I was told.
 

Fly'in W

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If what the dealer did doesn't work and they can't sort things out you may want to ask them to swap the ECU out.
It is possible yours is faulty! Odd that it doesn't throw a check engine light though?
 

ferniesnow

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If he didn't then you need a new dealer. We have seen plug failures before on the ETEC's. If you have an injector issue the plug may be dry. If it is wet it may be a plug or bad coil. I know of 2 coils that have failed this year on mileage similar to yours. A lot of this stuff can be checked on BUDS. I am personally leaning towards coil issues. If it is intermittant then they have done the proper thing to replace the one in question.

Alot of people are concerned with the indexing procedure with the new plugs. BRP has washered the plug so it starts on the threads in the same place everytime when you reinstall a plug. They should index properly everytime is what I was told.

Ken is the man! I'm sure glad he got me started on the Doolaide for the second time around.......:thumbsup2:
 

tukernater

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Ya my brothers just got a new coil in his xm
 

LBZ

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If he didn't then you need a new dealer. We have seen plug failures before on the ETEC's. If you have an injector issue the plug may be dry. If it is wet it may be a plug or bad coil. I know of 2 coils that have failed this year on mileage similar to yours. A lot of this stuff can be checked on BUDS. I am personally leaning towards coil issues. If it is intermittant then they have done the proper thing to replace the one in question.

Injector issues could mean wet plugs also. When my sled was new I could only pull 6000 rpm with it. Turned out one injector was pumping raw fuel in instead of atomizing it.

Does the sled drop fast to 6000 rpm or gradually? If it drops really fast like a cylinder cut out I'd lean towards electrical or an injector. If it's a slow decline then I'd say get the boroscope out and check cylinders/rings and maybe reeds. You may have some issues in that area. Or possibly something in the clutch....
 

Team Pigeon

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If your buddies have the same sled, start swapping parts.
My experience is arctic cat based but I'm making the swap to an xm

-primary clutch. How did the rebuild work out?
-secondary. If she's worn out, rpm fade is a symptom.why does it wear? Heavy loads under slow speed. Tandeming. Riding with a bunch of skis and gas and gear. When tandeming, you're being as easy as you can on the throttle thus localizing the wear. The stationary (on a cat) wears in an hourglass shape and won't up shift very well. This is because the Sheaves in the secondary will be really cocked under high belt load.
Anyhow the point is, if your buddies got the same sled, start swapping parts out when you go for a ride.

- coils. Did a new coil help out?
- spark plugs. When it fades, pull your plugs and have a look. Actually you should just replace them and then Wait for your symptom to come back and check wash.

-pipe temp sensor. Cat ones fail and often don't code. On my 1000, i grew to learn at knowing the symptoms and averaged 1.5 sensors a year. A smart guy on snowest also figured out the OHM resistance value of a sensor while running at optimal conditions. In a pinch or when a sensor fails, we just plug on of these in and keep on keeping on. BUT you risk cold seize when you start out with a cold engine - with an efi, the sled thinks the engine is hot all day long and on and cuts fuel. Most common scenario, right out of the parking lots. But you carb guys are used to that eh. borrow a friends.

That's been common to me in the cat world. Not sure if it helps.
 
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