Sled powered quads

[scramblerX]

google high performance design, once there they have a link for tech tips, they tell you how to allign clutches on a polaris. the center to center dimention may be different for you but it will give you some ideas. They are also really good with clutching. Lots of guys on gen3usa that know clutching well too.

 

[mustange70]

Thanks, yeah just posted u on gen3usa, seems like a bunch of good guys on there.

EDIT:

checked out that sight, and i can tell you right now that the belt is long, will need to go shorter or move the motor ahead, i have to much play on the drive clutch at the shaft, this would explain the belt issue i had today then i'll check the alignment too.

 

[mustange70]

Here's one of the vids, gonna try and get the others up, be warned its a big video:

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btGmBmpGuPc[/media]

 

[mustange70]

lets try that link again:

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btGmBmpGuPc[/media]

 

[mustange70]

Thought i'd give a quick little update, I got everything pulled apart today. First with the belt the new belt fits perfect, the old one had a half inch of room between the id of the belt and the primary when pulled tight, also when i check the miss alignment it was out as well, ended up having to notch a couple mount holes, and the worst one was notched out by roughly a 1/4", so this tells me something moved on me when I was welding everything up, as the belt alignment and fit was perfect, oh well its fixed now. So the belt alignment and fitup is now correct, I swapped out the primary spring to an almond spring (i have a black one in the secondary i think, its the stiffest one available for the scrammy), the weights in the primary are 54's too.

the to do list before I go back and try it out includes adding to extra mount coming off the top of the motor to the frame (been wanting to do this for a bit, now is a good time as everything is pulled apart), yank apart the secondary take off a bit on the helix on the spring, have to build a new cvt cover-going to build a frame with some 1" wide flat bar, then seal it off with some clear plastic (going to cut up some large clear rubbermaid storage tubs i picked up for 10 bucks) bolted to the frame work. Then finsh pounding out the dents in the pipes, and alastly get the tach working (an autometer car tach will work with this as the motor sends out a 6 pulse signal, so switch the tach to 6cyclinder mode, get the ground set right and go to town).

So hopefully in my next days off i'll have it together for some runs and some video, heres a few pictures:

the old belt:



Old spring on the left, new one on the right (need to bump up the engagement to get into the power)

 

[mustange70]

so got everything back together and did some carb adjustments as well as a few tweaks to the spring on the secondary (moved which holes it was in, went to the stiffest setting) then went out for a good spin today, and its working good goes like a rapped ape, best its ever gone. Did run into an issue with the battery being stone dead and with the cold, it was a solid block of ice, so with that the fan wasn't anywhere near being functional enough to keep the machine cool, so it did run hot a few times, so i had to let it sit and cool, but other than that I'm very happy. The 700 grizz i was riding with had nothing for me even with the clearencce difference (i was on 20" paddles and he was on 26" mudlites, his is piped and clutched as well) in the snow, anyway heres a vid:

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYn2YI2fH7w[/media]

I'm uploading another one too with a good couple wide open runs. I have a few things i'd like to do (lights, winch, toss in an optima battery, tool box, twist throttle) That said anyone have any recomendations/part numbers for a good twist throttle? But for now its just to damn cold to work on anything.

 

[mustange70]

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-e6MpjUW4A[/media]

 

[mustange70]

vid from the other day:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kR60Ahe_4WI

I have some more tuning to do, clutching most likely but its also kinda acting like its only running on 2 cyclinders down low, so I'll double check the electrics, run it, then go from there. I also need to work on the clutch cover as with the pipes the way they are its a bugger to get the cover off the machine to change a belt (pretty much have to remove the pipes). Anyone have any thoughts on how it sounds (in terms of how its runni

 

[mudhunter]

Nice piece o work!!

 

[mustange70]

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hEoYSyY4ug[/media]

Found out that the tranny was loose and the motor mount bolts came loose as well, so fixed that and moved the coils to up top to where their easier to get to, been having issues with the plug wires stayin in place. Also swapped out the weights in the primary from 54's to 58's, found a sticky weight while i was in there, so got it all back together and went out, from the video you can see that its running good, but not quite hitting full rpm's (tach ain't working properly, either a bad power wire or bad coil signal)

Anyway i'll be out and about tomorrow, i'll play with a few things and go from there.

 

[mustange70]

So I finally got tired of the hard starting and decided to tear the motor apart and rebuild. I was able to source a new ready to run bottom end, it has been ported, new bearings and seals all around, I was picked up three new cyclinders, a piston kit, complete gasket set, new magnetio (found the old one was very rusty and most likely the issue behind the weak spark), a set of carbon fiber reeds.

Here's what i found with the pistons, and the prime culprit behind the hard starts and low compression, all three pistons were like this:



so got everything put together, i will have to replace the primary as I can't even remove it (internal threads are stripped) and we have this (the purple had to go)






so a few days later:



Motor is assembled, installed, aligned and running. It started better on its first time then the old motor ever did . I cleaned up a few loose ends, installed new handle bars, twist grip throttle, moved the tach, scrubbed the plastics down and gave them a fresh few coats of flat black, repaired a leak in the rad, installed the extra gussets that i wanted to and now i'm just waiting on picking up the new drive clutch and i have to fill the rad (messed up installing one of the gaskets and hadd to fix it with a bit of silicon, so i will fill it tomorrow and hopefully everything is leak free). hopefully videos will be coming monday/tuesday

 

[modmanmike]

looks alot better with the new mill. shes come along way!

 

[mustange70]

thanks, yeah its running good now. . . .but I kinda broked it . . .:






the bearing, and because there was no support the main gears went all wonky and have been ground all to hell






So yeah the bad bearing and high hp fried the internal gear, bout 500 in parts plus trying to track down a case half, so its replace it with a used tranny or build a jackshaft setup, which is going to be tricky, espically if i want to keep 4wd.

More to follow, i'll know in a few days if i end up building the jackshaft setup.

 

[mustange70]

so I bit the bullet after i couldn't find a suitable replacement tranny, and the following is the story of the build of a jackshaft and still keep a functioning 4wd:



The aftermath of chopping up the tranny





The goal, i needed some way to get power to the front shaft, and i got to looking and the front output on these trannies looks like it was an afterthought and added on seperately, soo i chopped it out . only thing i had to do was swap out to a sealed bearing (on the input shaft, its a common bearing) and put on a beather, and its good to go.




mock up of everything to see what would work best.







The mounting setup for the 4wd part, it still uses one factory bolt hole locations on the right side of the frame.







the tacked in mounting lcoations for the shafts and sprockets.

 

[mustange70]

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/248831_10150641443320282_786780281_19069731_7428230_n.jpg[\img]

the reinforced frame, i had to cut the upper left frame rail for clutch clearence as i'm using the large P85 sled secondary, and its raised by a couple inches over the factory quad location, so the frame rail had to go.



Air filters are not going to work any more, i'll have to fab something up for the carb to get them closer to the motor then fab something up to run the filters out of harms way.

Right now everything is assembled, just gotta double check the clutch alignment then tighten down the pillow block bearings. then the jackshaft build is done. for gearing in the jack shaft its 11 drive and 26 driven, the rest is factory ratios, the secondary is larger in diameter so i went a little faster in the intial gear reduction, and if it isn't right its easy to swap out (factory is a 3:1 reduction i believe). hopefully i get it done and rideable in a couple days.

 

[rzrgade]

I truly am speechless......

 

[mustange70]

I truly am speechless......

what, 10lbs of crap in a 5lb bag? I'd told ya its was 20lbs . . . . . . . .lol, some progress from the nights work, got the bearings and sprockets set in place, tghe front driveshaft installed, the drivve clutch shaft drilled and tapped triple checked the alignment on everything, and that pretty well wraps up the jack shaft build, so now its finish with the brake line, air filters and put it back together and go for a ride, hopefully i can take it out late tomorrow evening.



The new brake line, i ended up cutting it while chopping the frame rail stupid me, but would've had to do it anyway looking back and how much i moved everything around.



drilled and tapped the driven clutch shaft, bit of a pita, but i was able to get it dead center.



the new carb to reed adapters, made out of 1.5" exhaust tubing mitred to form a 40* angle.

 

[mac450]

Deadly looking machine man good job I had a banshee and raptor 700 that seems like a beast I would like to see it in the hills it would rip I bet!

 

[mustange70]

thanks, just need to get a few others doing this and maybe Polaris ill take the hint and build it themselves .

 

[mustange70]

Finished carb adapters, gain about a 1/2", dropped the height a bit to so now i can change needle height without pulling the carbs, installation/removal is ten time easier too, also installed new rubber boots:



the new air filter adapters:







they are made out of 2.5" exhaust tubing and some thin steel plate (cant remember how thick off the top of my head), welding went well, considering i'm doing this with the most basic of basic $200 fluxcore self shielded welder, the spatter is a bugger thou, but it works and the local canadian tire has tips and wire and open till 10pm every night lol. I will be connecting them to the carbs with radiator style hose, then i will be glueing the hose to these adapters as insurance (i have to play with the clamps, i have a couple big wide ones that may work inplace of having to use two on each setup).

approximate new locations of the air filters:



They clear the plastics, barely, but i will have to build a couple 90* elbows for everything to fit. The rear plastic is going to have to be trimmed a lot to clear the new clutch location, and i should be able to reuse the previous clutch cover with a few mods to compensate for the larger diameter clutch, center to center didn't change all that much, i will have to make some new mounts though. I also will have to change the mounting locations for the ignition module and coils, so needless to say this tranny replacement has been largest piece of the puzzle so far as everything has changed.

The goal now is to have this running thursday at the latest i want to have it running for wednesday and test runs on thursday hopefully, reason being is i head out on holidays on friday and i wanna take this with me , so fingers crossed, as i have some extra time right now.