Sidewinder belt drive question
- Thread starter Lund
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![IMG_3878[1].JPG](https://www.snowandmud.com/data/attachments/193/193555-16a904960240a0fe45e5381d82c30535.jpg "IMG_3878[1].JPG")
![IMG_3878[1].JPG](/data/attachments/193/193554-16a904960240a0fe45e5381d82c30535.jpg)
M1ryguy
Active VIP Member
No, looks like you are maybe rubbing on something? Met up with a polaris boost on the hill a couple weeks ago and he had the same wear on his belt, we found a bolt that came loose and was sitting in the bottom of his belly pan rubbing the back side of the belt, maybe have a look as there isn't a lot of clearance under there.
M1ryguy
Active VIP Member
- Thread starter
- #4
Lund
Active VIP Member
Here is mine with lettering, so I taking this as normal. Its the tension idlers causing this.
Have you ever had issues with snow/ice getting in there and causing problem?
I seem to get a lot of ice in there but so far no issues.
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Lunch_Box
Active VIP Member
Its normal to look like that. But I will say after tearing 2 belts in about 1500kms you need to check your tension when everything is warmed up. I talked to the guys at Specialty and they said the tension they put in their instructions is just a starting point and that once everything is warmed up the and gears expanded that you should have between 1/8"-3/16" belt deflection.
Lunch_Box
Active VIP Member
No issues with ice/snow built up. Buddy put 10,000kms on his first belt before it went. Get the correct tension and you shouldn't have to touch it again.
- Thread starter
- #7
Lund
Active VIP Member
Thanks, I appreciate you guys feed back.
Anyone have to change one of these out in the field?
I do carry a spare in my kit on board.
Anyone have to change one of these out in the field?
I do carry a spare in my kit on board.
Lunch_Box
Active VIP Member
Ya I have changed 3 now. First one was a bitch as I didn't have the right tools with me. So just took way longer than it should have. Now that I carry the right tools its pretty simple. Moving the factory oil tank is the hardest part, the rest is easy. I moved my factory oil tank so I can change mine out in about 15 minutes.
MK4TDI
Active VIP Member
Pictures of said oil tank relocation?
Lunch_Box
Active VIP Member
Well there was a bit more than just a oil tank relocation, was part of project lightweight Sidewinder.
- Thread starter
- #11
Lund
Active VIP Member
That's a change.
You running stage 3? You call it lightweight Sidewinder project, what are you seeing now?
I did a belt change as an exercise in the shop using just basic tools I would take on the sled, modified what was needed to make it somewhat easy job to do. Though this was just in the shop, out in the field I could probably do it in about 45min.
The only future change I will do is cut the oil pipes further back and install hoses, this will allow me to swing the oil tank out of the way better.
MK4TDI
Active VIP Member
Lunch_Box
Active VIP Member
Don't want to hijack your thread so I'll do a build up thread. But no stage 3. Evo stage 4 tune, so factory turbo. Just wanted to lose some weight (goal was 580lbs ready to ride) and move the weight off the nose and more central to the riders body.
Another thing that might also make it easier is to get rid of the torx bolts that hold the tensioner cover on and replace with Allen head cap screws. Can use a balled Allen head then and not have to be 100% square to the bolt.
- Thread starter
- #14
Lund
Active VIP Member
That is an excellent idea, next time she due for a service i'm going to switch over to cap screws.
Making life easier, thanks.
Turblue
Active VIP Member
So the belt drive a noticeable gain? Don’t think I’d be willing to give up reverse.
I think people go to the belt drive set up for light weight, easy of repairs in backcountry, and more gear ratio options . It would be cool if someone would make a belt drive kit with reverse. I would buy that.
Turblue
Active VIP Member
I’ve been thinking about that but haven’t made it very far. Lol. Can you actually feel the weight difference alone? I’m guessing probably not without doing a bunch of other stuff.
Lunch_Box
Active VIP Member
Weight gain is the biggest advantage, but the throttle response is amazing. Most people that go with the belt drive gear it down slightly. Only time I ever wish I had my reverse back is when im off loading the sled off the deck, other than that its not really an issue.
Lunch_Box
Active VIP Member
Yamaha has the technology with their R1 engine to do this. We just dont have a big enough market for them to invest into a light weight sled engine to suit our needs.
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- #20
Lund
Active VIP Member
If you use reverse then its not for you, I have owned a sled with reverse since 05, RT days for me and over the years it is not something I use, in fact hardly ever.
As for noticeable gains, that 15lb reduction translate to a more even ski pressure. With the gear box I had to run 5psi more on the RH side to get somewhat even pressure.
In tuning there is huge improvements, some call it throttle response, I call it track response because that is truly what it is.
I run a data logger on my sled, tech from the motorcycle racing world, Healtech Electronics.
I have been running these on my motorcycle for a few years and Healtech adapted one to work on the Winder for my personal use.
The info it collects in the ilogger box I use to help setup my sled in real world riding and check for performance changes. I can honestly tell you the belt drive takes the Winder to a new level in tuning and performance, the gains are enough to recalibrate the ratio's and clutch to take advantage of it.
Most people will install the belt drive and do little else, they feel a difference but probably do not realize the real potentials. So basically what you read and get as feed back is only a beginning.
Anyhow, thats my observation so far and I do not have a lot of kilometers on mine compared to others.
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