Secondary Clutch Helix Removal

prairie-rider800

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Hey, I've been trying to remove the helix on my 2013 Pro so I can clean out the secondary before the season starts. The problem is I can't get the Torx scews out on the back. I've tried heat and Impact drivers and I keep busting bits. So I'm just wondering if anyone has had this issue and what is the trick to getting the screws out?
Thanks!
 

rmscustom

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I put it back on the jackshaft backwards to hold it with the brake locked, apply heat and use a good torx bit on a ratchet wrench until they break loose... Some can be really tough.
 

prairie-rider800

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Yup! I tried an electric one and it just broke the bit so I tried the hand one and still no luck.
 

HotShotHarry

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The problem is corrosion build-up between the steel screws and the aluminum sheave. Hitting the screws with a manual impact driver should have broken the screws loose. Make sure the driver is set to turn left when it is hit with the hammer.
 

Danbot

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LOTS of heat usually makes the difference for me, but when they are really stubborn I put the clutch in the freezer for a day and then quickly heat the screws... This usually gets it first try.

Once I had to drill the screw heads, if you don't go too deep with the drill and get the helix off... you will have just enough stud left to vice grip them out.
 

takethebounce

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If they have never been out you are going to have to use lots of heat. A hand held impact that you hit with a hammer will likely work best to break them loose.
 

Chrisco

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You don't need any heat just smack the top of the head with a ball peen hammer and they will come right out.
 

Winter Brew

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If you're braking bits, buy the snap-on bit. Works very good.

Yes, the gold snap-on bit is nice. Their regular bits broke for me. The gold bit is a little bigger so it fits snug, needs a whack with a hammer to seat...this and a little heat and they come right out.
 
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