Polaris XLT clutching....Help

[Bogger]

So like a moron I went out and bought a 1996 polaris XLT 600 tripple in January.... ran good for my first ride but then started acting up...

the choke leaver broke off and it was bogging at engagement...

I've replaced the choke assembly and installed a new belt but I'm still having issues with bogging...

The sled will run up to engagement...clutch engages, then after the track turns about 8" it bogs out on me...

Belt seems really tight, I know nothing about clutching, is there a way to loosen up the tension on the belt because my problem may be as simple as that...if not it has to be the springs in the clutch, Russ looked over the weights & rollers and said all is good there...

for me this is like a dyslexic trying to solve a word puzzle.....

Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated...

 

[TROLLCAT]

sounds like the primary spring is broke or week , you might have to add a shim in the secondary if its not adjustable for belt defection

 

[TROLLCAT]

new spark plugs

 

[Bogger]

new spark plugs

brand new pugs, 130 PSI all 3 holes, brand new belt, carbs cleaned...

clutch engages a little better now and is catching at 4500rpm but soon as I hit 5500 rpm she boggs out and will stall, smells like flooding...

Fawking polaris...

 

[Work2Ride]

Sell it and stop wasting your time. It's the clutch now then it will be the jetting, then the compression, never ending.

 

[Bogger]

Sell it and stop wasting your time. It's the clutch now then it will be the jetting, then the compression, never ending.

I want it running to sell it... have a guy interested but it needs to run...

And no I will not take $50, a 1996 december playboy mag, and a 6 pack of brewhouse....

If I can get this sold tomorow I want to blow out the wifes 99 670x and buy KORE's summit...

 

[higher n you]

slap a monster sticker on the clutch, should fixer right up:d

 

[TROLLCAT]

the choke cable is it adjusted poperly them tripples are a pain in the azz, set polit screws to what the stivcker under the recamendes spelling holy fawk

 

[Work2Ride]

I want it running to sell it... have a guy interested but it needs to run...

And no I will not take $50, a 1996 december playboy mag, and a 6 pack of brewhouse....

If I can get this sold tomorow I want to blow out the wifes 99 670x and buy KORE's summit...

You should be paying me $50 and a case of beer for getting it out of your garage.

 

[TROLLCAT]

set the carbs to what the sticker under the recomeneds

 

[heavy d]

I think, if I remember right, there were 3 different belts offered for those sleds. Varying by 1/16" each in width, totaling 1/8" in legth differance. the same multiple with lenth, from belt #1 - #3 was 1/8" differance.

What you can try, is take a sharpie (permanant marker), and put a 2" wide line on the inside face of the clutch, from the shaft to the top. With your sled on a stand, run it up and make sure the belt is moving all the way to the top of the clutch when it should be fully engaged. If it does not, a good possibillity that you got the wrong belt, primary spring is weak, or secondary spring is weak or broken.

What belt is on it Bogger ?

 

[Giv'er]

OK

Do you know how to change the jets? Old engines usually run like $hit because they have old gas in the carbs.

Start with a 17 mm wrech and take the bottom water traps off of the carbs.....(remove the air box first) dont lose the rubber seals on the water traps so get a good ligtht and watch what you are doing. With the little jet tool in the tool box reach under the carb and hook it in there onto the jet with is like a little brass nut....unscrew it and don't drop it!

If there is any sediment, green goo, varnish...clean it make sure that jet is spotless. If there is alot of gunk then you should take the carbs right off and give them a thorough cleaning as the pilot line is probably choked up too.

If that is all good, then screw in the pilots fully and backscrew them 1.5 turns.

Ideally run main jets 2 sizes smaller than the chart on the hood (the hex ones that you checked on the bottom of the carbs

Is the gas fresh? one year old gas should be poured into your car.

Does it flood the motor sitting or lose fuel if the fuel valve is left open? if so they you need to adjust the floats....are you sure that they aren't sticking?

Also check all the chokes and make sure that they move properly, ensure that none are stuck. While your at it, look into the carbs and pull the throttle, make sure all 3 slides go up. (airbox off)

Umplug the lightbulb and see if that jogs the coil voltage, it could have a short so see if that changes anything.

The secondary spring may have popped out of a hole but if you don't know how to open that up then take it off and bring it to a dealer. or look it up on line.....a little difficult and you need to know what your doing.

Lastly a timing key may have broken or the stator came loose under the flywheel. you need to pull the recoil off and need a puller to check that.

As well, tape the throttle open slightly, just off idle.......better yet, stick a screwdriver between the throttle and throttle block find a drill bit size that fits in the gap under the slide of the carb barrel......right at the bottom of the throat.....and set each gap exactly the same on each carb by adjusting the throttle cable nuts on top of the carb.......congrats, you just sync'd your carbs.

You can also unbolt the primary clutch without taking it off and see if the spring looks ok and that there is no slop in the bushings....just mark the outer piece to the inner piece so that you maintain the balance when you put it back together in exactly the same position (look for the little x's)

Lastly, check the fuel pick up filter in the tank, might be full of crap.

Giver

 

[retiredpop]

^^good advice^^

In addition to the above, did you set the choke free play when you replaced the lever? You should have about 1/8" free play when you pull on the choke lever before you feel some resistance when the choke plungers start to move in the bore. If not then you will need to adjust each choke. See file below.

Check the belt deflection. This is very very important on the XLT. If it is off then you will get a bog as soon as it starts to engage. Lay a straight edge on top of the drive belt so it spans both clutches. Push down on the center of the belt and measure the amount it goes below the straight edge. It needs to be 1.25". To adjust loosen the three bolts on the center ring of the secondary clutch and rotate the ring. Lift the track and run sled to engage clutches. Recheck the belt deflection.

 

[snopro]

Sounds like it runs like its owners name. It's a Bogger to.

 

[Trashy]

A shot in the dark..... have you sinc'd all 3 of your carb's?

 

[ZakAttack]

I guess you are the real bogger after all!!

 

[Mike270412]

Didn't we have the carbs off that thing at one of our meetings?

 

[meatbag]

I wasn't completely sure before Zakattack, but now I have to agree, he is the real Bogger after all. Who would have guessed?:d

 

[Bogger]

Didn't we have the carbs off that thing at one of our meetings?

yes carbs were off, cleaned and re-installed, was bogging before and now is still bogging so I'm lead to believe it is a clutching issue...

 

[benclaluna450r]

Easy fix here rag gas tank match and good insurance