Nytro ball joint milling

[Thedoityouselfguy]

Was thinking of finding someone to mill the upper ball joint shoulder down and was thinking.....would it be THAT BAD if I just marked a really fine line on the tubing the ball join sits inside of and jus file it out of the notch in the tubing on the a arm itself instead? As long as a guy takes his time and gets it true and square that should give me the negative camber that I need to fix the front end right? Beats going to a machine shop I would think.

 

[Thedoityouselfguy]

I thought that yamaha changed geometry on the newer nytros but I had a look today and found that the upper ball joints have not changed at all...just the lowers. so I am kind of up in the air on this. Anyone?

 

[jjack]

ya I think your ball joints just going to come lose.thats a taper fit you cant just start fileing on it.And the only way you could do it is bore out the taper and make a adjustable insert.like what they use on a dodge truck so you can ajust caster camber.Being a mechanic and mechineist I would,nt go any where near that job.

 

[Thedoityouselfguy]

TE=jjack;2005312]ya I think your ball joints just going to come lose.thats a taper fit you cant just start fileing on it.And the only way you could do it is bore out the taper and make a adjustable insert.like what they use on a dodge truck so you can ajust caster camber.Being a mechanic and mechineist I would,nt go any where near that job.[/QUOTE]

Tapered??? That ain't no tapered fit. And this is definitely not a dodge. The stud is probably 1/16" smaller than the tubing it goes through so its actually kind of loose until you torque it down. I want to file (with at least some precision) down the notch where I am pointing the screwdriver. I just thought it would make more sense to make the notch deeper than to get someone to mill the shoulder of the ball joint to make the stud longer every time you have to replace that upper ball joint. And if you get too much negative camber, you can still at least shim it out.

 

[jjack]

TE=jjack;2005312]ya I think your ball joints just going to come lose.thats a taper fit you cant just start fileing on it.And the only way you could do it is bore out the taper and make a adjustable insert.like what they use on a dodge truck so you can ajust caster camber.Being a mechanic and mechineist I would,nt go any where near that job.

Tapered??? That ain't no tapered fit. And this is definitely not a dodge. The stud is probably 1/16" smaller than the tubing it goes through so its actually kind of loose until you torque it down. I want to file (with at least some precision) down the notch where I am pointing the screwdriver. I just thought it would make more sense to make the notch deeper than to get someone to mill the shoulder of the ball joint to make the stud longer every time you have to replace that upper ball joint. And if you get too much negative camber, you can still at least shim it out.
View attachment 174391View attachment 174390[/QUOTE]

my bad was thinking something different,pics say it all.if you how many degs you want it changed it would,nt be hard to mill the balljoint.Then if it works I,ll just make a jig for them and can then just repeat.

 

[Thedoityouselfguy]

Looks like 2.5mm gives you 26 degrees instead of the factory 22. Most people don't have a lathe in their garage but most have a hand file. Just figured I would be cheaper, quicker, and easier solution to the darting problem. I am going to do it and get some pics up even though there doesn't seem to be much interest.

 

[Clode]

I am curious to see how it works, post your findings....everybody around here seems to have a hate on for yamaha, I think most yammy guys have left the building !!!!

 

[grizztracks]

Looks like 2.5mm gives you 26 degrees instead of the factory 22. Most people don't have a lathe in their garage but most have a hand file. Just figured I would be cheaper, quicker, and easier solution to the darting problem. I am going to do it and get some pics up even though there doesn't seem to be much interest.

The upper ball joint mod gives the 2008 front end more negative Camber. The 22 to 26 degrees you stated is for Caster (not Camber) which can't be changed unless you replace at least the upper a-arm with aftermarket . Hygear has an upper that has a cam insert that can be shimmed and also rotated to change both caster and camber. I've done several ball joint mods by taking approximately 2.5 mm of the shoulder of the joint and it's definitely worth doing on the 2008 geometry. I do believe that it would be possible to gain negative camber by removing material off of the a-arm as long as you don't get into the weld and keep the notch squared. It still would be better to mount the a-arm in a mill to accurately cut it.

 

[Vipertonytro]

I have a bark buster front end I would sell you that you can adjust the camber to your liking if your interested. A-Arms are red and the spindles are the updated ones in black. Lighter and a way better turning angle than the stock setup.

 

[Thedoityouselfguy]

The upper ball joint mod gives the 2008 front end more negative Camber. The 22 to 26 degrees you stated is for Caster (not Camber) which can't be changed unless you replace at least the upper a-arm with aftermarket . Hygear has an upper that has a cam insert that can be shimmed and also rotated to change both caster and camber. I've done several ball joint mods by taking approximately 2.5 mm of the shoulder of the joint and it's definitely worth doing on the 2008 geometry. I do believe that it would be possible to gain negative camber by removing material off of the a-arm as long as you don't get into the weld and keep the notch squared. It still would be better to mount the a-arm in a mill to accurately cut it.

Sorry your right about degrees being caster.....but your picking up what I am puttin down though. A mill would be great but I am just saying that if you don't have a mill u should be able to do it by hand since it is not really precision fit from factory anyway. So since you have done a few already I am assuming 2.5 mm is the magic number? Thanks

 

[grizztracks]

Yes, 2.5 mm is the correct amount. If you go more than that the ball joint will need to be threaded farther down the stud so you can still tighten it. I've gone as far as 3mm. Taking that amount of material off of the arm with hand tools will be time consuming and it's still important to keep the end as square as possible so that the joint stays tight after the modification. I just checked a 2008 upper a-arm and I don't think there's 2.5 mm that could be taken off without cutting into the weld.

 

[Thedoityouselfguy]

I have a bark buster front end I would sell you that you can adjust the camber to your liking if your interested. A-Arms are red and the spindles are the updated ones in black. Lighter and a way better turning angle than the stock setup.

Just wanted to throw out a big thanks for hooking me up with the barkbuster setup!


i filed out the a arm anyway and everything seems to fit nice and tight and true....you can take out about 2 mm and that just starts touching into the weld but still leaves enough meat on the bone to whack a couple trees I would think.

 

[Vipertonytro]

Your welcome. Helps to clean out the garage a bit too LOL!