New 2011 M1000 or Port/Polish and do up my 08 M1000

prairiepulling

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Looking for opinions on whether I should but a new 2011 M1000 SnoPro or Port and Polish my 08 M1000 SnoPro.
Never ridden an 2011, is there a whole bunch of difference between the 2.
Thanks Guys.:theCabin:
 

sleliuk1

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none. the 08 and 11 have the same power. keep the 08, throw on a pipe setup (y pipe/pipe/can), reeds, air intake (firebreather), programmer, and do some clutching changes. you will be around 190-200hp (so they say) on the 1000. i personally wouldn't waste time porting/polishing, too much effort and money to get a small gain. just my opinion because i had this exact setup and the sled pulled hard.
 
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oly

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You won't get those hp #'s without porting
 

prairiepulling

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I agree with you Oly, they claim Lindermans Bottom and Top end Porting will give you 210 HP on the Dyno and 190 ish @ elevation. Just curious of how much difference there is between the 2 Sleds.
Thanks
 

sleliuk1

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Well do whatever you wanna do I guess, but I guarantee you that you will not get 190hp at elevation. Calculation for naturally aspirated engines:

(elevation in feet x 0.03 x horsepower @ sea level) divided by 1000 equals your horsepower loss

turbo's and superchargers have minimal hp loss with elevation change

Yes porting and polishing will bump up the numbers, but thats a lot more work than just throwing on the bolt ons and getting good power with those. I never got mine dyno'd at the crank, but same setups were getting 190+ without porting and polishing, and thats proven on a crank dyno. I got mine dyno'd at the track and it wasn't very much (120ish), lost a pile of power through the drive/track. There isn't any difference power wise between the stock 2008 and 2011. Only major difference is the electric reverse (11) instead of mechanical reverse (08). Just trying to help you out so you don't waste a pile of money like i did to find a great proven setup!
 

prairiepulling

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Thanks Sleliuk1,

I agree with the #'s you are saying with Bolt on Horsepower but was told that the Bottom End and Top End Port and Polish on the Long Stroke 1000 Engine really wakes them up and in fact have a good friend of mine who has a 1100 Big Bore that claimed one he was riding with last season (Linderman done M1000 P/Polish) with proper Clutching was very impressive on the Hill and went every place that his Big Bore did and this fellow is an pretty exceptional rider. I'm thinking doing the P/P and going to a 162" x 3" Track as I've heard nothing but good about that change as well.
Thanks Again
 

sleliuk1

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Sounds good, just don't change your mind and do things twice because someone says its better! i did that numerous times and i could have bought a turbo and big bore kit for the amount of money i spent changing stuff! The 3" track is a good idea, i wish i would have done that instead of the 2.5". The 2.5" made a big difference, but the 3" is definately the way to go!
 

prairiepulling

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would you suggest Big Bore to get more of your moneys worth or go turbo right off the hop. I can get the P/Polish done for 2k, the Big Bore done for 3k of spend 6k+ for a turbo set up.
Thanks
 

sleliuk1

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Depending on your finances, personally i would do the turbo next time. Don't do the race gas one, just the pump gas. Really good power gain on the 1000 and at a decent level of boost they are reliable. And don't forget at elevation the hp loss is minimal, so you are getting the most for a decent price. I thought the pump gas setups were a little cheaper but i could be wrong.
 

oly

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I did the just pipe and intake and clutching thing and was told these magical #'s. Ask Brent what they did on the Dyno for just a pipe and y pipe... like 5 hp. I was too miss lead and up on the hill it showed to the big bores turbos as well as the porting handed me my a$$. I run a 08 m1000 turbo now and my my pal runs the port job. Also have a bud running the 880 xp.. and a piped M1000 gets pumped by the 880 xp! Just saying the m1000 has great potential with a $500 buck port job with the pipes! I know I wasnt beating anybody with just mine piped! I agree with the track to! that will work the best for your money first of all! Also U can get away with 10 lbs of boost on av 100 LL wich cost $1.30 / L wich is the same as premium in valemount! So you can get a little more boost without costing big bucks.
 

prairiepulling

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Thanks Oly,
So what you are saying is go turbo right off the bat and not bother with the port and polish because of minimal gains. What are the real #'s from a Pump Gas Turbo set up ? Wondering about a Port/Polish and Pump Gas set up to make it breathe. It currently has D&D Y-Pipe, Jaws Can, Boondocker Fuel Management and 50 HP Nitrous on it and works pretty good but of course we always want more without breaking the Bank. Tempted to go with Turbo and be done with it. Who's kits is the one to go with as I've heard good things about most of them that are out there. Thanks again.
 

oly

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Turbo is nice that's for sure... But expensive! All in all with a good install this is what it has cost me: $400 koso, $2500 ( new engine I just bought from cat), $1500 from Linderman to do oil delete, porting, crank plates, his xtra motor mount, head cutting for the turbo. Capable to run boost over 24lb. turbo kit I had but it cost me $5000 at the time. New CR tunnel extension with way bigger cooler $950. New motor and turbo installed with some xtra goodies as in cosmetics on the sled..$5000. And I got a steal of a deal on a camo extreme for $600. This does not include about another 8-10 thousand on r&d pi$$ing around getting told all sorts of crazy #'s from people that just wanted my money! Either you can take your motor out and save on labour or just send your sled and pay the labour to have it all done... About 4hr to pull and put your engine in.. $90/hr x4 . Porting top and bottom and head cut abit $500/port. $125 per head. Pipe will be around $800-$1000. And Boondocker box $450. But when you get it back it is pull and go and zero tuning. Brent told me an honest $10 000 will get you pull the rope reliable turbo from him. I think he uses boondocker and cutler, mainly boondocker though. so not so cheap to get ino the Hp #'s over 170 Hp and over! I like the Nitrous idea but I would be sad to be out of it by Km 5 on the trail due to mashing the button all the time ;) pump gas on 6 lb boost would be perfect on an honest 215 hp +. But premium is close to the same as 100 LL so you could squeeze alittle more boost:)
 
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Have been thinking about selling my OVS aerocharger pump gas kit if your interested. Looking to get about $3000 for it. Have about 300-400km on it only.
 

MP Kid

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Don't waste your time with a PG turbo, it'll limit you down the road. Go with the RG kit right off the top, and then just run the boost\fuel for the power you're looking for. Best bet is to talk to Brent first! You should've talked to him this summer, he'll be SUPER busy right now!

Also, your '08 may need crank work if it has a lot of miles on it, plus the '11 M1000 will have the lighter DD w\ Elec. engine reverse, and the cleaner rear tunnel. Just my .02
 
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prairiepulling

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Was kind of thinking the same way in regards to the Turbo set-up. I've talked to Brent in regards to timing - not an issue.
Going to do the updated Tunnel on it and a 162" x 3" Track as well but other than that, the reverse situation seems to be the only real diff. The Sled has 1000 miles on it so if I turbo it we will do the whole Motor so there is no issues with the engine post turbo. I've had the D&D 1220's, 1380's etc, looking for a pull and go system with minimal wrenching @ this stage of the game as trust me - I had to twist a few over the years to make the Triples work good. Thanks
 
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prairiepulling

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So it's sounding like go with @ least a Port and Polish for noticable gains. Leaning towards a Big Bore with full port and polish and then if a guy wanted to turbo it later it will have the porting already done..
 

arctic1000

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i'm running an 08 m1000 with rk-tek head and porting with speed-werx pipe,was running slp pipe and speed-werx intake.rk-tek set up pulls way harder on the mountian than my other set up and just as reliable.cost me $1800.00 with out clutching.diffrence between 2008 and 2011 is weight and different fuel map.
 

0neoldfart

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So it's sounding like go with @ least a Port and Polish for noticable gains. Leaning towards a Big Bore with full port and polish and then if a guy wanted to turbo it later it will have the porting already done..
prairiepulling - if you port your engine now, you will be buying new cylinders if you turbo the sled. Way different porting specs between turbo and non turbo. If you do turbo the sled, most reputable shops will insist on having cylinder work done on the M1000. Be aware of this when you are shopping for turbo installs.
 

Catberg

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I have an 08 m1000 163 snow pro and a 2010 m1000 163 snow pro. Stock you can't tell the difference. I have an slp y pipe, pie and can and boon docker box on the 2010. Wakes it up nice.
 
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