MTNTK Drop In Kit question

TDR

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You need more weight to compensate for more hp. Yes throttle cable. Might be a bit loose with all the playing around. Start the sled and lengthen the cable until you hit normal idle. Could also be dirty throttle bodies.
 

newfrank

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You need more weight to compensate for more hp. Yes throttle cable. Might be a bit loose with all the playing around. Start the sled and lengthen the cable until you hit normal idle. Could also be dirty throttle bodies.

Right so Ill have to order a set of weights and the primary spring this week and see how it performs next weekend.
 

rknight111

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Chris is probably snowmobiling this weekend as he's an avid sledder. I would take his advise as well he's good with them Polaris's. Make sure you have good fuel, some stations have crummy 91. I always buy from a busy station, and brand name, petro canada, shell, esso


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newfrank

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Chris is probably snowmobiling this weekend as he's an avid sledder. I would take his advise as well he's good with them Polaris's. Make sure you have good fuel, some stations have crummy 91. I always buy from a busy station, and brand name, petro canada, shell, esso


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Yeah the Petro Canada near my place is probably the busiest gas station in the area, the 91 there is always good and fresh.

I'm going to give Chris a call tomorrow and get some advice.
 
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TDR

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Run Shell 91 so you don't have ethanol. Other than Shell you have to look for stickers at the pump to tell if there is ethanol. Some Esso pumps are no ethanol. As stated above Chris is a great resource. He knows these sleds very well.
 

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The MTNTK head is completely different than the PAR head the shell is the same but the domes are there own design. They are det friendly lol. For primary weight it should be over 70 grams for sure. 72 possibly would be a good start, I just dont get down that low lol.
 

Chrisco

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I just talked to Rob at MTNTK he is the designer of the drop in kit, if det issues are still present after the primary is loaded properly you have two choices. One is to run better fuel and the second is to pull the timing key, pulling the key for riding at 0 to 1000 feet will not hurt performance much at all.
 

newfrank

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Yeah I called MTNTK as well and they said to just remove the timing key anyways. I ordered the spring from you so that's good and I finally found a set of 70g weights nearby so I ordered those and will see how it goes.

I also asked him about the low idle I was having when the sled is warm and he said that it's probably due to the amount of oil I put in (32oz) for break in. After it clears through the system he said it should go back to a normal idle.
 

Jorgy

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Yeah I called MTNTK as well and they said to just remove the timing key anyways. I ordered the spring from you so that's good and I finally found a set of 70g weights nearby so I ordered those and will see how it goes.

I also asked him about the low idle I was having when the sled is warm and he said that it's probably due to the amount of oil I put in (32oz) for break in. After it clears through the system he said it should go back to a normal idle.

I wouldn't sweat over the low idle. After a long pull where my engine has been working hard and I shut it off for less than a minute or two and fire it back up it does the same 1000-1100 RPM. Touch the throttle and it'll come back up to its 1700-1800 idle. Not sure what the internal cause is but its not a big deal, it'll keep doing it even after you've burned your oil through the tank. Haven't read the whole thread but make sure you've got your oil pump turned up a couple turns as well and then monitor your consumption for an entire tank. Most guys go for 40:1.
 

newfrank

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Alright so quick update. Reminder, I'm at 0-1000ft elevation.

I installed the SLP blue/pink primary spring, 70g epi belly buster weights and also removed the MTNTK timing key and put my stock timing key back in. The new weights have small holes in them on the top side, does this mean that extra weight can be added to them?

After about 20 miles I haven't had any detonation problems, the sled pulls hard through the mid and top end (noticeably harder than stock). I'm super happy with it now. I am especially happy about the lack of det. I'm running 91 and I'm on ethanol mode.

My only issue now is the low idle after the sled is warm. I'll let it be for now, according to MTNTK it's probably just due to the amount of oil I put in for the first tank. After a couple of tanks it'll hopefully clear out and I'll be good to go.

I gotta give a big thanks for Chris at Parkland. He was a big help on the phone and was always willing to answer my probably too many questions.
 

newfrank

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And now my speedo or odometer don't work. Always something lol.

I wouldn't sweat over the low idle. After a long pull where my engine has been working hard and I shut it off for less than a minute or two and fire it back up it does the same 1000-1100 RPM. Touch the throttle and it'll come back up to its 1700-1800 idle. Not sure what the internal cause is but its not a big deal, it'll keep doing it even after you've burned your oil through the tank. Haven't read the whole thread but make sure you've got your oil pump turned up a couple turns as well and then monitor your consumption for an entire tank. Most guys go for 40:1.

When I first got the sled I checked my ratio and I'm somewhere around 32:1 so fairly rich. Always smokes like a son of a gun but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
 
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