M8000 clutch changes

[X-Treme]

My riding consists of probably 75% low elevation riding in Alberta and maybe 25% in the mountains, so I'm wondering if I should maybe put the low elevation kit in my 2015 M8000. Is it something I can easily do myself (clutch weights and helix), or do I need to take it to the dealer? I'm a mechanic, so tools and know how are not a problem, BUT, will I need any "special" sled/clutch specific tools to do this? Is it easy enough to do that I could quickly change it back to the 6-9000' stuff for when I DO head up higher? Looked for some write ups and youtube video's but not much out there. Never done or even seen it done, so any and all help is much appreciated.

 

[Cat401]

My riding consists of probably 75% low elevation riding in Alberta and maybe 25% in the mountains, so I'm wondering if I should maybe put the low elevation kit in my 2015 M8000. Is it something I can easily do myself (clutch weights and helix), or do I need to take it to the dealer? I'm a mechanic, so tools and know how are not a problem, BUT, will I need any "special" sled/clutch specific tools to do this? Is it easy enough to do that I could quickly change it back to the 6-9000' stuff for when I DO head up higher? Looked for some write ups and youtube video's but not much out there. Never done or even seen it done, so any and all help is much appreciated.

Changing the weights will give you a bit more snap....I wouldn't worry about the helix.

you need a clutch puller to get the primary off....good tool to have and something to compress the clutch spring so the weights become loose

then you need to apply heat to the weights to loosen the set screw....

overall pretty easy...maybe an hour

there was a thread on this here on s&m

 

[neilsleder]

Buy a set of adjustable weights. Then there is just set screws to put in or out.


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[JONSHOW]

you need a clutch puller to get the primary off....

Don't bother pulling your primary off unless you really want to. It's not necessary to change your weights. Just pull off the primary cover off or close the sheaves with a pry bar and put something on them to hold them closed. I'd go with pulling off the cover as you can spin the crank with the clutch attached and not worry about the clamp coming off and smashing your fingers.

Buy a set of adjustable weights. Then there is just set screws to put in or out.

Good advice. For a little more than twice the price of stock cam arms you'll have a set of weights you wont often have to remove. Buy the cutler weights, get the improved trail (IT) weights and as neilsleder said, you can just add weight via set screws. The best part is you can adjust your cam weight without pulling your cover or your clutch off or changing cam arms as you can access the screw hole in the heel of the weight while the primary is installed and intact.

DON'T BUY BIKEMAN GOLDSTAR WEIGHTS. (Holy sh*t are these terrible to work with)

 

[X-Treme]

Don't bother pulling your primary off unless you really want to. It's not necessary to change your weights. Just pull off the primary cover off or close the sheaves with a pry bar and put something on them to hold them closed. I'd go with pulling off the cover as you can spin the crank with the clutch attached and not worry about the clamp coming off and smashing your fingers.

Good advice. For a little more than twice the price of stock cam arms you'll have a set of weights you wont often have to remove. Buy the cutler weights, get the improved trail (IT) weights and as neilsleder said, you can just add weight via set screws. The best part is you can adjust your cam weight without pulling your cover or your clutch off or changing cam arms as you can access the screw hole in the heel of the weight while the primary is installed and intact.

DON'T BUY BIKEMAN GOLDSTAR WEIGHTS. (Holy sh*t are these terrible to work with)

And, would you agree to not bother with the helix?

 

[JONSHOW]

It's not necessary to change the helix.
Although those clutches respond really really well to a 38 degree helix which would serve you pretty well in the hills and down on the flats.
What RPM are you pulling down low?

 

[X-Treme]

It's not necessary to change the helix.
Although those clutches respond really really well to a 38 degree helix which would serve you pretty well in the hills and down on the flats.
What RPM are you pulling down low?

Flat out? I'd have to check next time I'm out. If I remember right tho, I'm above 4K before engagement. I've just been reading around, which has the wheels spinning, that's all. That's why I ask. I'd need to know what weight I would need for weights also (AC low elevation kit is 75g). The stock helix is a 36 degree, and the low elevation kit from AC includes a 42/40 degree. How hard is the helix to change?

 

[JONSHOW]

Helix isn't hard to change, just a pain in the ass. The four screws fixing it to the sheave can be a nightmare to get out.
42/40 is probably not going to be so fun up in the hills if your sled is stock. Down low (how low?) is a different story.

 

[X-Treme]

Edson - 3050'
Athabasca - 1700'

I'd probably go with something where it's set for lower, and when a trip is planned to the mountains, spend an hour or 2 one night to make the changes. As long as it's not gonna be something that's a 5 hour job or something, or need any special tools.

 

[northof40]

Just my opinion.. Its well worth changing the helix as well (go with the 42/40), especially if you say 75% of your riding is in Alberta. Once you do it a couple times you will be able to swap both clutches in under an hour.

Also,a piece of ready rod, 5/8'' or so with a couple washers and nuts is a cheap easy compressor for the secondary that you can hold in a vice.

 

[JONSHOW]

(go with the 42/40), especially if you say 75% of your riding is in Alberta...
Also,a piece of ready rod, 5/8'' or so with a couple washers and nuts is a cheap easy compressor for the secondary that you can hold in a vice.

If those are your high elevation and your low, maybe that 42/40 will work for you. I've never ridden that low down. We are 3000+ around my neck of the woods.
And if your ok with setting your clutch up for the mountains 2 rides out of 10 and have a little time it may be worth the effort.
Like nothof40 said, with a little practice and some fabbed up tools you can swap parts pretty quick.
Be careful with those 4 torx flat head screws though...

 

[X-Treme]

Just my opinion.. Its well worth changing the helix as well (go with the 42/40), especially if you say 75% of your riding is in Alberta. Once you do it a couple times you will be able to swap both clutches in under an hour.

Also,a piece of ready rod, 5/8'' or so with a couple washers and nuts is a cheap easy compressor for the secondary that you can hold in a vice.

Those are my 2 LOW elevations. The 2 places that I ride most often. Then there's the odd trip to the mountains.

I do have a press at my shop, if that would make a big help.

So, if I DO have the time, and equipment, should I just go with the AC low elevation kit then, or do you still recommend the adjustable weights? And if so, what weight range?

 

[c_nelson99]

Heat the bolts with a torch to soften the loc-tite they will come out a hell of a lot easier. Also re-apply loc-title when you reinstall them, trust me you don't want them backing out when you are 2 mountain ranges from your truck.

 

[McGrath]

My riding consists of probably 75% low elevation riding in Alberta and maybe 25% in the mountains, so I'm wondering if I should maybe put the low elevation kit in my 2015 M8000. Is it something I can easily do myself (clutch weights and helix), or do I need to take it to the dealer? I'm a mechanic, so tools and know how are not a problem, BUT, will I need any "special" sled/clutch specific tools to do this? Is it easy enough to do that I could quickly change it back to the 6-9000' stuff for when I DO head up higher? Looked for some write ups and youtube video's but not much out there. Never done or even seen it done, so any and all help is much appreciated.

,,
give me a call Saturday I can point you in the right direction and even help you do it at the shop for free. Don't like to lend out the tools as we may need them but it's pretty simple job.
mike 780-477-3525 that's if your local Edmonton guy I guess?

 

[X-Treme]

,,
give me a call Saturday I can point you in the right direction and even help you do it at the shop for free. Don't like to lend out the tools as we may need them but it's pretty simple job.
mike 780-477-3525 that's if your local Edmonton guy I guess?

Thanks Mike. May take you up on that too. Got my low elevation kit coming on Monday/Tuesday.

 

[McGrath]

No problem, we got the tools why buy them, once it's set up your good to go. We also have adjustable weights in stock if needed.closed Monday's though but Tuesday good

 

[Slamnek]

Thanks for the info guys. I'm in the same boat as x-treme. I'm revving over 8300 so I have to really try throttle management and it's not fun. I'm gonna start with the 75g weights and see how that works.

 

[X-Treme]

Did my weights last night, and my helix today with 2 big washers and a piece of redi-rod. Both went a lot easier than I would have thought. Definitely need the heat. On both the weight set screws and the helix screws (man, are those things tight). Hit the helix screws with a small 3/8 impact to pop em loose after the heat, but had 4 new spares on hand just in case. Off to Edson tomorrow, so we'll see how it all works out. Thanks for all the help peeps, and the offer McGrath (still gonna come see you re. suspension tho).